How to Grow Orchids? A Complete Guide to the Latest Cultivation Methods
Orchids are epiphytic or terrestrial herbaceous plants and have a cultivation history of more than a thousand years in China. The Chinese have always regarded orchids as a symbol of nobility and elegance, and together with “plum, bamboo and chrysanthemum” they are known as the “Four Gentlemen”, possessing high ornamental value. Below, let us take a look at the cultivation methods for orchids!
Orchid Growth Habits
1. Soil: Orchids grow on shady, well-ventilated mountain slopes where water does not accumulate, so the growing medium must be airy, loose, well-draining and slightly acidic. For outdoor cultivation, the most commonly used medium is mud flower soil.
2. Temperature: The optimal growing temperature for orchids is 18-30 degrees Celsius. Below 5 degrees Celsius or above 35 degrees Celsius, growth slows down. The reproductive growth period is 5-18 degrees Celsius.
3. Humidity: Orchids grow well when relative air humidity is 60-70%. Conditions that are too dry or too wet easily trigger orchid diseases, so outdoor cultivation requires creating a gradual humidity microclimate suitable for orchid growth, while indoors a sprayer and hygrometer should be installed.
4. Light: Orchids prefer shade and fear direct sunlight, but if kept in a concealed spot year-round, they will also rarely bloom.
5. Fertilizer: During the vigorous growth period, orchids need more fertilizer; during the dormant period or weak growth period, no fertilizer is needed. Excessive fertilizing will burn the roots and leaves, causing irreparable loss.
Orchid Propagation Methods
1. Seed propagation: Orchid seeds are extremely fine, containing only one incompletely developed embryo, with very low germination capacity. In addition, the seed coat does not easily absorb water, so sowing by conventional methods will not lead to germination. Therefore, orchid mycorrhizal fungi or artificial culture media are needed to supply nutrients for germination to occur.
2. Tissue culture: Tissue culture of orchids has already been successfully achieved, and where conditions permit, this method can be used for propagation.
3. Division propagation
① Time for division: This can be done in both spring and autumn, generally once every three years. Any plant with robust growth and densely clustered pseudobulbs can be divided. After division, each clump must retain at least 5 connected pseudobulbs. Before division, watering should be reduced so that the potting soil is relatively dry.
② Division method: When potting up after division, first place broken tile pieces over the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, then spread coarse gravel to occupy 1/5-1/4 of the pot's depth, then add coarse-grained soil and a small amount of fine soil, and finally plant in sandy loam rich in humus. The planting depth should be such that the pseudobulbs are just buried in the soil, leaving a 2 cm rim at the edge of the pot, topped with Selaginella uncinata or fine gravel.
③ After-planting care: After planting is completed, water thoroughly, place in a shady spot for 10-15 days, keep the soil moist, gradually reduce watering, and carry out normal maintenance.
Orchid Cultivation Methods
1. Location: The location where orchids are placed is very important and directly affects their growth and development. Generally, in spring, summer and autumn they are placed outdoors (in summer, in a shaded outdoor spot), while in winter they are placed indoors. Outdoors, it is best to have open surroundings and moist air; indoors, there should be ample light, preferably facing south. This is favorable for orchid growth. Orchid pots are best placed on wooden stands or tables, not directly on the ground.
2. Soil selection: Peat soil, black mountain soil, pine needle soil, garden soil, fern roots, moss and bark chunks can all serve as orchid growing medium. The bottom of the pot must have good drainage to increase permeability. Tile pieces can be used to cover the drainage holes, then a layer of crushed brick and stone granules spread to a thickness of one quarter of the pot's bottom depth, and finally the growing medium placed on top. When planting orchids, they should be held upright and inserted into the soil, then covered with soil up to the pseudobulbs. Firm the soil, leaving no soil within 2 cm to facilitate watering. After planting, water thoroughly, place in a cool environment, and after half a month move to a ventilated, sunny environment. The pot surface can be covered with small gravel, which both retains moisture and enhances the ornamental appeal.
3. Watering: For orchids, eight parts dry and two parts wet is best. During the flowering period and the period when leaf buds emerge, water less. During the plum rain season, they should be moved back indoors, or a shelter should be set up to keep off the rain. In summer, water in the early morning or evening, and not too much. In autumn, the amount of watering can be appropriately increased. In dry seasons, spray every evening. When spraying, spray upward so that the mist droplets are fine and even, moistening the leaf surface and dampening the ground to increase air humidity. Sometimes it is best to spray several times a day. When watering, pour from the edge of the pot; do not pour directly onto the crown, and do not water at noon. In winter, although watering can be greatly reduced, it is not omitted; be careful not to let the potting soil dry out completely. In late winter and early spring, if watering causes the leaves and leaf sheaths to become wet along the edges, wait until they dry in the sun before moving them indoors to prevent rot. In short, water when dry, stop when wet, and the principle is to keep slightly on the dry side. Rainwater and spring water are preferable. All kinds of water should first be drawn and stored in a jar to let pollutants settle, allow the water temperature to normalize, and let the chlorine in tap water dissipate, and then be used for watering.
4. Light: Although orchids prefer cool conditions, if kept in a concealed spot year-round, they will also rarely bloom. Orchid growers long ago discovered that orchids on the shady side of a mountain have long leaves but sparse flowers, while those on the sunny side have short leaves but many flowers. Therefore, when cultivating orchids, attention must be paid to light. In spring and summer, orchids are best shaded with reed blinds, or placed at an east- or south-facing ventilated window indoors. Orchids under blinds should have their pots turned once every half month so that all sides receive light, which benefits balanced plant growth. When autumn turns cool, the potted orchids should be moved out from the shaded spot and given half a day of morning sun, but care should be taken that autumn does not become dry. In cold weather, place them indoors under a south window to overwinter, but not too warm; it is best to add a plastic film cover to maintain appropriate leaf surface humidity. As for pest and disease control, if brown rust disease or southern blight occurs, treat with 0.5% lime sulfur mixture. If there is an ant nest, the pot can be immersed in water to drive them away.
5. Fertilizing: In applying fertilizer, strong concentrations should be avoided. Therefore, during the growing period, horse-hoof bean sauce residue water, soybean cake water, etc. can be used once every half month. If potassium dihydrogen phosphate is applied in appropriate amounts, the effect is even better. Fertilizing in the hot summer season is inappropriate because the temperature is too high and water is lost quickly, making the fertilizer concentration thicker and affecting plant growth. In addition, daily watering is needed, along with spraying water on the leaves several times, with the water slightly acidic, which benefits plant growth.
6. Pruning: During orchid cultivation, the plants need to be pruned. For example, when old leaves turn yellow and withered, they all need to be pruned, which both benefits the growth of other leaves and improves ventilation. Diseased leaves especially need timely pruning to prevent contagion. In addition, the scissors also need to be disinfected to prevent infection.