How to grow potted plum blossoms? Detailed guide to the latest care methods
The plum blossom is a deciduous tree of the genus Prunus in the rose family (Rosaceae); it sometimes also refers to its fruit (the plum) or its flower (the plum blossom). It originated in southern China and has a cultivation history of more than three thousand years. Whether grown for ornament or as a fruit tree, it has many cultivars. Many types are not only cultivated in the open ground for ornamental viewing, but can also be planted as pot flowers and trained into plum bonsai. Let us take a look below at how to grow potted plum blossoms!
Growing habits of the plum blossom
The plum blossom likes a warm climate and is not strongly cold-hardy. Apart from cultivars of the apricot plum (armeniaca plum) group, which can withstand low temperatures of -25°C, it generally withstands low temperatures of -10°C. It is fairly drought-tolerant, not waterlogging-tolerant, and long-lived, reaching up to a thousand years. It is especially sensitive to climate change during the flowering period. It likes relatively high air humidity, but dislikes heavy rain. It tolerates high temperatures and can still grow at 40°C, and grows and develops best in areas with an annual average temperature of 16-23°C. It is extremely sensitive to temperature, flowering when the average temperature in early spring reaches -5-7°C. If low temperatures occur, the flowering period is delayed; if low temperatures occur while it is flowering, the flowering period can be prolonged. During the growing season it should be placed in a spot with ample sunlight and good ventilation. If kept in a shaded environment with insufficient light, it will grow spindly and weak and bloom sparsely. In winter, do not move it indoors too early; moving it indoors in late November is appropriate, so that flower bud differentiation can fully go through the vernalization stage. In winter it should be placed in a sunny spot indoors, with the temperature kept at around 5°C.
How to pot up the plum blossom
After 2-3 years of planting and pruning in the nursery bed, the plum blossom can be planted in a pot to make a potted plum blossom or bonsai for people to admire. The potting soil is generally prepared by mixing one part leaf mold, three parts vegetable garden soil, and a small amount of sandy soil. This kind of soil is soft in texture and rich in nutrients, with good aeration and drainage performance; when dry it will not cake or crack, and when wet it will not clump tightly together. Potting up is generally done after the soil thaws at the Beginning of Spring. For growing it, an earthenware pot is better. Spread a layer of broken pot pieces evenly over the bottom of the pot to aid drainage, prevent nutrient loss, and increase the space and area, which helps ventilation and air permeability. Cut off overly long main roots and a small number of lateral roots, keeping more fibrous roots. First pour in a small amount of soil, then place the plum trunk into the pot; after adding soil, shake the flower pot so the loose soil settles and binds tightly with the roots, water thoroughly, and place it in the sun.
How to fertilize the plum blossom
The plum blossom tolerates poor soil and does not need much nutrient. Generally it does not need excessive fertilizing; too much causes rampant growth of branches and leaves and makes it hard to form flower buds, but it must absolutely not be given too little nutrient, which would cause poor growth. Potted plum blossoms often grow poorly because of the small amount of potting soil and nutrient loss through leaching. Besides applying base fertilizer and phosphorus-potassium fertilizer in the growing medium when potting up, decomposed human waste and cake-fertilizer water should also be applied during the growing season. When fertilizing, wait until new roots sprouting from the plum blossom's root system have reached more than 3 cm (that is, 15-20 days after potting up), and follow the principle of going from less to more, from dilute to concentrated, step by step, so as to avoid harming the roots and killing the plant through applying too early or too concentrated. During the growing season, fertilize once a week. When the new shoots have finished growing and water restriction begins, nitrogen fertilizer should be controlled to avoid rampant branch growth; at the same time, spray phosphorus-potassium fertilizer on the leaves weekly or apply quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to promote flower bud formation. After the physiological differentiation of flower buds is complete (around the Beginning of Autumn), apply fertilizer water 2-3 times a month. Around the Spring Festival, when the flower buds swell, fertilize once or twice, mainly with quick-acting fertilizer (human waste or urea), to force flowering.
How to water the plum blossom
1. The plum blossom fears waterlogging most of all, but it should not be too dry either. The roots of the plum must not remain for a long time in wet soil with poor drainage, otherwise they easily rot and the plant dies. The plum blossom is a broadleaf tree species and needs more water during the summer growing season. If it lacks water, photosynthesis will be weakened, nutrient accumulation will be reduced, and the normal growth and flowering of the plum trunk will be affected. The number of waterings and the amount used should be determined by the temperature, the humidity, and the drainage condition of the potting soil. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist. When the branches have grown to 15-20 cm, before flower bud differentiation, follow the principle of “do not water until dry, and when watering, water thoroughly”. Water again when the new shoots wilt and droop, carrying out “water restriction” to control the growth of new shoots, accumulate nutrients, and promote flower bud differentiation.
2. The buds of the plum blossom are precocious. Throughout the entire vegetative growth process, it can sprout 2-3 times of new shoots. If watering is not properly controlled and a second flush of new shoots is allowed to sprout and grow, flower buds will be hard to form, and the following year it will not bloom or will bloom very little. However, if water is lost excessively, then even after watering the leaves still cannot return to normal, and the leaf tips turn yellow, dry, and drop, which also affects flower bud differentiation. If the leaves are found to be severely withered, the entire plum blossom can be immersed in water and taken out after 40 minutes, and it can be expected to return to normal. From late July to August, after the physiological differentiation of flower buds is complete, normal watering should be resumed. In winter, when the temperature is lower, water less but keep the air humid, so as to prevent the flower buds from drying out and even dropping.