How to propagate cedar by cuttings? Latest technique and method tutorial
Cedar is an evergreen tree of the genus Cedrus, favored for its graceful form, majestic presence and upright trunk, and widely used in landscaping. Besides propagation by seed, it can also be propagated by cuttings, which offers advantages such as a relatively high survival rate and good economic returns. Let us take a look together at the cedar cutting propagation technique!
Cedar cutting time
Cedar can be propagated by cuttings in all four seasons. For spring cuttings, mid-to-late March is suitable; for summer cuttings, May and June are good; autumn cuttings are done in mid-August; in late autumn and early winter cuttings can still be taken, but they will not root that same year. In large-scale production, spring and summer cuttings are the main methods, giving a relatively high survival rate and good economic returns.
Cedar cutting selection
The age of the mother tree from which branches are taken and the age of the cuttings are among the key factors determining the survival rate of cedar cutting propagation. The younger the mother tree, the higher the cutting survival rate, and cuttings from seedling-grown mother trees are superior to those from cutting-grown mother trees. The younger the cutting, the stronger its meristematic capacity and the easier it roots. Therefore, it is best to use one-year-old sturdy branches from vigorous young seedling-grown mother trees as cuttings. Cuttings should be taken on a windless morning with dew or on a cloudy day. Select one-year-old sturdy branches as cuttings, about 15 cm long, cut the base smooth, and remove secondary branches and lower needles. For summer cuttings, take the new shoots of the current year as cuttings, and their base should include part of last year's old wood. After cutting, soak the base of the cutting in a naphthaleneacetic acid aqueous solution at a concentration of 500 mg/kg for 5 seconds, then insert immediately.
Cedar cutting bed preparation
Cedar should be raised in a place sheltered from wind and facing the sun, with convenient drainage and irrigation, and slightly acidic sandy loam soil. Make the seedbed 100 cm wide, lay 10 cm of gravel and coarse sand at the bottom, and on top spread sieved loess, burnt soil and fine sand mixed evenly in a ratio of 7:1:1. The seedbed trenches should interconnect to facilitate drainage. Before making the cutting bed, the bed site should be plowed and turned repeatedly, and at the same time 30 jin of ferrous sulfate and 100 jin of compound fertilizer per mu should be turned into the cutting bed soil together. The middle of the cutting bed should be slightly higher to prevent waterlogging.
Cedar cutting technique
When inserting cedar cuttings, they should be separated by diameter grade and length and thickness before insertion. Before inserting, a shallow furrow can first be opened in the seedbed, then the cuttings inserted. For spring cuttings, the plant and row spacing is 5 cm × 9 cm; for summer cuttings it can be appropriately denser. Both vertical and slanting insertion work, but slanting insertion is better, as the contact area is larger and it favors rooting. The insertion depth is 6 to 8 cm. After insertion, press firm and water thoroughly.
Management after cedar insertion
After cedar cuttings are inserted, build a shade shed or use a shade net for covering, with a light transmittance of 30-40% being most ideal. After insertion, spray water once each morning and evening with a watering can or sprayer; spray less on cloudy and rainy days. After the cuttings root, control the amount and frequency of watering to prevent root rot. At the same time, strengthen fertilizer and water management. When summer cutting temperatures are high, cover with a double-layer curtain to cool down, with ventilation on all sides. On sunny days the shade shed must be covered early and uncovered late; on rainy days clear the trenches in time, drain and prevent waterlogging. After the Start of Autumn, the shade shed can be removed for hardening off the seedlings to improve their resistance. Generally, rooting occurs about 50 days after insertion, with a survival rate above 85%. After new shoots appear, spray 0.2% urea or potassium dihydrogen phosphate to promote new shoot growth. The following spring, they can be transplanted for temporary planting in ordinary garden soil at a plant and row spacing of 30 cm × 50 cm.