The Complete Guide to the Latest Methods for Making Homemade Flower Fertilizer
Using household waste to make excellent flower fertilizer saves money and is eco-friendly, and it is all organic fertilizer, containing various nutrient elements needed by flowers and rich organic matter, with a mild and long-lasting fertilizer effect. It can also improve the soil, helping the soil form a granular structure and harmonize the air and water in the soil, which is extremely beneficial to the growth and development of flowers. Now let us take a look at the complete guide to homemade flower fertilizer methods!
Making Nitrogen Fertilizer
Nitrogen fertilizer is the main fertilizer that promotes the growth of flower roots, stems, and leaves. Take moldy or insect-infested beans, peanuts, sunflower seeds, and castor beans that can no longer be eaten, plus leftover vegetable leaves, bean pods, melon and fruit peels, or pigeon droppings and expired spoiled milk powder, crush them, boil them until soft, put them in a small jar, fill it with water, then seal it to ferment and decompose (if conditions permit, some insecticide can be sprinkled in). To make it decompose as quickly as possible, it can be placed in sunlight to increase the temperature. When all these materials in the jar have sunk, and the water has turned black and has no foul odor (about 3 to 6 months), it indicates that fermentation and decomposition are complete. In summer, after 10 days the upper layer of fertilizer water can be taken out and diluted with water for use. It can be used as a top dressing or directly as a base fertilizer. After use, immediately fill the jar with water again to continue composting. The residual material can be mixed into the flower soil.
Making Potassium Fertilizer
Rice washing water (best applied after fermentation), leftover tea water, and water from rinsing milk bottles are excellent potassium fertilizers and can be used directly to water flowers. Plant ash also contains potassium fertilizer and can be used as a base fertilizer. Potassium fertilizer has a significant effect on improving flowers' resistance to lodging and resistance to pests and diseases.
Making Phosphorus Fertilizer
1. Fish intestines, meat bones, fish bones, fish scales, crab shells, shrimp shells, hair, nails, and livestock hooves and horns are rich in phosphorus-containing scraps. After crushing these scraps, evenly stir them into the flower soil, or place them in a container to ferment, and they become an ideal phosphorus fertilizer. Used diluted with water to water flowers, it will make the flowers brightly colored and glossy and the fruits plump. The fertilizer effect can last for more than 2 years.
2. Clean the egg white from inside eggshells, dry them in the sun, crush them, then put them in a grinding bowl and grind them into powder. They can be mixed evenly with potting soil at a ratio of 1 part eggshell powder to 3 parts potting soil and used for potting flowers. This is also a long-acting phosphorus fertilizer. After eggshell powder is used in planting flowers, the flowers bloom large and brightly colored, and the fruits are large and plump. It is a completely organic phosphorus fertilizer.
Making Compound Fertilizer
1. Complete compound fertilizer: Put leftover pork ribs, lamb ribs, beef ribs, and other bones after eating into a pressure cooker and steam for 30 minutes, then crush them into powder. Mix evenly at a ratio of 1 part bone powder to 3 parts river sand. Use as a base fertilizer for flowers by placing it at the bottom of the flower pot to a depth of 3 cm, covering it with a layer of soil, and then planting the flowers.
2. Nitrogen-phosphorus compound fertilizer: Take 0.5 kg ammonium bicarbonate, 0.15 kg potassium chloride, 0.025 kg zinc sulfate, 2.5 kg human feces and urine, 1 kg cow manure and urine (or 5 kg pig manure and urine), and 20 kg fine red stone bone powder. Divide each into 5 equal portions, then spread a layer of fine red stone bone powder (4 kg), sprinkle the other fertilizers on top, pat firmly with a wooden board, and finally cover and seal with straw or plastic film. After 20 to 25 days, it becomes nitrogen-phosphorus compound fertilizer.
3. Humic acid ammonium phosphate: Take 1 kg decomposed biogas residue, add 0.05 kg phosphate rock powder, mix evenly, and pile it up. Coat the outside with a 3 to 5 cm thick layer of thin mud mixed with cow dung, then sprinkle a layer of fine soil on top, and seal for 40 days to make humic acid phosphate fertilizer. Then turn the humic acid phosphate fertilizer pile, break it up finely, pile it up again, and coat it with thin mud. Next, make holes into the pile from the top and around the sides, then inject ammonia water at a ratio of 0.05 kg ammonia water to 1 kg humic acid phosphate fertilizer, and at the same time seal the holes tightly with mud. After 8 to 10 days, when there is no smell outside the holes, it is successful. This compound fertilizer used as a base fertilizer has an obvious effect.
Summary: When using homemade flower fertilizer, master the principle of “light fertilizer, diluted application”, dilute appropriately, apply in appropriate amounts, and by no means apply excessively. When composting fertilizer, you must wait until the fertilizer water soaked out from inside has turned completely black and fully decomposed before pouring it out and mixing it with water (about 9 parts water to 1 part fertilizer water) for application. Raw fertilizer must not be used.