How to plant daisy seeds? A detailed guide to the latest growing methods
Daisy is also known as spring chrysanthemum, Malantou flower, and everlasting chrysanthemum. It is native to Europe, where the original species was regarded as a clumping weed. Its flowering period is in spring. It is now cultivated all over the world. In China it is grown in gardens everywhere as a flowerbed ornamental plant, and in cold regions where it can survive the summer it can be propagated by division. Now let us take a look at how to plant daisy seeds!
Sowing time
Daisy likes cool climates, dislikes heat, likes light, and tolerates partial shade. The optimum temperature for seed germination is 22-28°C, and the optimum temperature for growth is 20-25°C. The seeds are very small, with 4900-6600 seeds per gram. They are mostly sown in September, while in the Zhejiang region sowing generally begins in late July, mostly from late July to mid-August, and when sown at this time New Year's Day is the peak flowering period.
Sowing method
For sowing daisy, use a loose, air-permeable medium. The medium should be sterilized, and it is best to then cover it with vermiculite, a thin layer, just enough that the seeds are no longer visible. Because daisy seeds are very small, they are not suitable for dibbling, so broadcasting is generally used. Once the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves they can be transplanted once. The pH of the sowing medium is best at 5.8-6.5, and an EC value of 0.5-0.75 is more suitable. After sowing, maintain a temperature of 18-20°C and a humidity of 80-90%, and germination occurs in 5-8 days.
Management after sowing
1. First stage: after sowing, maintain a temperature of 18-22°C and a humidity of 80-90%. The radicle emerges in 5-8 days. After germination, the medium must still be kept moist, no fertilizer spraying is needed, and light must be provided, but the light must not be too strong during germination, so appropriate shading is still needed. In July and August, shading is still needed around midday to lower the temperature.
2. Second stage: in this stage the humidity is 70-80%, which allows the roots to penetrate the medium and absorb nutrients for the expansion of the cotyledons. Keep the temperature at 16-20°C, and once the first pair of true leaves has unfolded, fertilization can begin, mainly with a 50 ppm 20-10-20 water-soluble fertilizer. After this stage, transplanting can begin once using 288- or 128-cell trays.
3. Third stage: this stage is the rapid growth period of the seedlings, and the medium must be prevented from becoming too wet. Apply 50 ppm of 20-10-20 and 14-0-14 special flower fertilizers alternately. Because of the high or low air temperature and the degree of transpiration, generally apply liquid fertilizer once every 2-3 days instead of watering. This is a relatively scientific method of water and fertilizer management in seedling production. If the traditional method is used, applying fertilizer once at intervals, the concentration is relatively increased to 70-100 ppm. But between watering and fertilizing, the medium should be allowed to dry slightly, using alternating wet and dry conditions to promote seedling growth and root development. When the seedlings have 2-3 pairs of true leaves and a height of 3-100 cm, and the root system is basically fully developed, the next stage of hardening off can be carried out.
4. Fourth stage: in this stage the seedling root system has already grown well and there are already 3 pairs of true leaves. The hardening-off process before potting up can be considered. The temperature is the same as the previous stage, and the humidity is slightly reduced. Water control in this stage is especially important. Apply 14-0-14 water-soluble fertilizer, otherwise the seedlings will easily become leggy. Therefore there must be sufficient sunlight, enhanced ventilation, and control of temperature and humidity to prevent leggy growth.