How to grow potted anthurium well? A detailed guide to the latest care methods

Anthurium is also known as flamingo flower, red goose-foot, fire crane flower and so on. It is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Anthurium in the Araceae family, native to tropical rainforest regions such as Costa Rica and Colombia. Its flowers are uniquely beautiful, and its flowering period is long-lasting. It is suitable for potted cultivation, cut flowers, or mass planting in shaded garden areas for beautification. Now let us take a look at how to grow potted anthurium well!

Anthurium's growth habits

Anthurium often grows epiphytically on trees, sometimes on rocks or directly on the ground. It likes a warm, humid, and well-drained semi-shaded environment, and fears drought and strong direct sunlight. The suitable daytime temperature for growth is 26-32°C, and the nighttime temperature is 21-32°C. The highest temperature it can tolerate is 35°C, and the lowest temperature it can tolerate is 14°C.

Anthurium's propagation methods

1. Division: Division is mainly carried out in the cool and highly humid spring, and can also be done in cool autumn weather. Never divide in the hot summer or in the dry and cold season.

2. Cuttings: For cuttings, cut off sections with 1-2 stem nodes and 3-4 leaves as cuttings, insert them into sphagnum moss, and plant them in pots after new roots sprout.

3. Sowing: Anthurium seeds are relatively large. Use indoor pot sowing. The suitable germination temperature is 25-28°C, and germination occurs 20-25 days after sowing. Seedlings need to be cultivated for 3-4 years before they can bloom.

Anthurium's cultivation methods

1. Humidity: Normal growth of anthurium requires about 70% air humidity, which is generally difficult to achieve in ordinary home cultivation. You can use a clean wet towel to wipe the leaves several times a day, or spray water around the plant regularly to increase air humidity, but never sprinkle water on the flowers, so as not to affect their ornamental quality.

2. Fertilizer and water: Under normal growth conditions, water the potting soil weekly, allowing it to dry and become wet alternately. Generally follow the principle of not watering when the soil surface is not dry, and watering thoroughly when watering. In spring, autumn, and winter, the frequency and amount of watering can be appropriately reduced. Every half month, apply a 7-8% special nutrient solution or fertilizer water diluted 500 times along with watering.

3. Pruning: Under normal circumstances, during the growth of anthurium, the petioles at the base gradually degenerate, and when the stipules become dry, they can be cut off in time. When the flower stalk turns yellow after flowering, it should also be cut off as soon as possible from the base, leaving a 2 cm protective stub.

4. Temperature: When cultivating anthurium, keep the temperature as stable as possible. The optimal growth temperature for anthurium is 16-24°C, and the minimum temperature should be kept above 12°C. In ordinary homes with heating facilities, this condition is easy to meet. But at the same time, note that the flowerpot must not be placed on a radiator or too close to a radiator. When the summer temperature exceeds 30°C, move the plant to a ventilated room relatively toward the north, and spray water around the plant to lower the temperature.

5. Light: Normal growth of anthurium requires sufficient scattered light. For home cultivation, generally note the following: in summer, avoid strong direct light on the leaves and flowers; in autumn and winter, when conditions permit, move it near a window to increase light. Also rotate the plant regularly to ensure it receives uniform light and to promote a full, rounded crown shape.

What to do if anthurium leaves turn yellow?

1. Metabolism: If you find that anthurium leaves are turning yellow, pay attention to the condition of the other leaves. If the leaves are fresh tender yellow-green while the flowers are growing well, it means new leaves are growing, and old leaves turning yellow and falling off is normal.

2. Unsuitable soil: In most areas of the north, the medium and water contain relatively high salinity and alkalinity. Because the medium lacks the soluble iron that the plant needs to absorb, the leaves gradually lose green color and turn yellow. The solution is to treat the medium and watering water with oxalic acid and the like.

3. Overwatering: If the new leaves of anthurium turn yellow while the old leaves remain normal, this situation is generally caused by watering too much or too frequently, which keeps the medium in the pot overly wet for a long time, or even waterlogged, causing some fibrous roots to rot, hindering normal respiration and nutrient absorption, and causing the leaves to gradually turn yellow and fall off. The solution is to water normally.

4. Dry air: In winter, when the indoor air for growing flowers is too dry, the leaf tips often dry up and turn yellow, or the leaf margins scorch, or the leaves develop scorched spots and curled edges. The solution is to appropriately increase air humidity according to the growth characteristics of anthurium.

5. Excessive shading: If anthurium is kept for a long time in a shaded place or a place with insufficient light, its growth will weaken, the leaves will be thin and yellow, and it will not bloom or bloom very little. The solution is to appropriately increase light intensity according to the growth characteristics of anthurium.

6. Unsuitable temperature: If the indoor temperature in winter is too low, the leaves will turn yellow. If the room temperature is too high, the plant transpires excessively, and the roots cannot supply enough water and nutrients, which will also cause the leaves to turn yellow. The solution is to keep the temperature in the greenhouse relatively stable.

7. Uneven fertilization: Too little fertilization, or not changing the pot and soil for a long time, leads to a lack of nutrients such as nitrogen in the soil, resulting in weak branches and leaves, and thin, yellow leaves. In addition, excessive fertilization can also cause new leaves to become thick and uneven, while old leaves dry at the tips and turn scorched yellow and fall off. At this time, stop fertilizing immediately, increase watering, remove part of the old soil, replace it with new potting soil, and carry out normal management.