How do you grow potted pothos so it thrives?
Pothos is also known as devil's ivy, golden pothos, golden vine, etc. It is a large evergreen climbing plant in the Araceae family, genus Epipremnum, with strong twining ability, well-developed aerial roots, variegated leaves, evergreen in all seasons, and long drooping branches. It can climb on a cylinder wrapped with palm fiber or on tree trunks for greening, and can also be grown as a hanging plant placed in a study, on a windowsill, on a wall, or on a wall enclosure. Now let us take a look at how to grow potted pothos well!
Growth habits of pothos
Pothos is a shade-loving plant that prefers a hot and humid environment, avoids direct sunlight, and likes shade. It prefers soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, and slightly acidic. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. It lives as soon as it meets water, and because of its tenacious vitality, it is called the “flower of life”. Its spreading green branches and leaves are very easy to satisfy. When grown indoors, whether in pots or by breaking off a few stems for water culture, it can grow well. It can be allowed to climb on a cylinder wrapped with palm fiber, or grown as a hanging plant placed in a study or on a windowsill, or simply kept as a potted plant.
Propagation methods of pothos
1. Cuttings: For cuttings, choose semi-lignified branches that grow robustly and are free of pests and diseases, cut them into 10-13 cm lengths, cut the lower end into a slanted cut, and keep 2-3 leaves at the upper end. Cut the leaves in half to reduce water evaporation and help the cuttings survive.
2. Substrate: The cutting substrate requires loose, breathable, well-drained loam or sandy soil with high humus content. Vermiculite is best, as it makes rooting fast and the survival rate high. Before inserting, disinfect the soil with 2% formalin or 5% potassium permanganate.
3. Inserting: Quickly dip the lower end of the prepared cuttings in ABT rooting powder or indolebutyric acid, then insert them into the previously prepared substrate, with 1/2 of the cutting in the soil, water thoroughly so that the cuttings are in close contact with the substrate, and then cover with plastic film.
4. Management: After inserting, pay attention to keeping the soil moist and the air temperature relatively high. The soil moisture should be about 50%, while the air humidity is best at 80-90%. In the early stage of cutting, keep the shade degree of the shade shed at about 80%. This can prevent strong direct sunlight and also ensure sufficient scattered light, so as to facilitate photosynthesis of the leafy cuttings and help rooting. After cutting, roots generally form after about 20 days.
How do you grow potted pothos?
1. Light: The original growing condition of pothos is in forests shaded by towering trees, so its sun-loving tendency is not strong. But in the north in autumn and winter, in order to make up for the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because the leaves may be frostbitten in a very short time.
2. Humidity: Pothos grows faster in an environment with higher air humidity. It is recommended to maintain indoor humidity, and a humidifier can be used to increase air humidity. A transparent plastic bag can be placed over the plant to create a mini greenhouse effect, but it should not exceed two hours.
3. Temperature: Although pothos does not like the scorching sun, it is still very sensitive to temperature. If the temperature is too low, it is easily frostbitten. A room temperature of about 20°C is enough. If heating equipment is used, the leaves of pothos should not be too close to it. If the indoor temperature is kept above 10°C, pothos can safely pass the winter.
4. Watering: The amount of watering in autumn and winter should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating, the temperature is lower, the soil of the plant evaporates more slowly, and watering should be reduced. The amount of water should be controlled between 1/4 and 1/2 of the original. Even after heating, watering should not be too frequent. When watering, pour less into the pot, and water should seep through the palm fiber. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where aerial roots grow on the palm pole, to reduce insufficient root water absorption caused by excessive evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for a day is better. Water that is too cold easily damages the roots.
5. Fertilizing: Because pothos grown indoors absorbs nutrients less fully than outdoors, it is recommended to apply fertilizer once every half month. You can buy fertilizer specially used for pothos on the market. Or ask the flower shop owner to help choose fertilizer.
6. Pests and diseases: Pothos plants are very susceptible to problems from pests and pathogens. Typical pests affecting pothos include mealybugs, red spiders, scale insects, etc. Mealybugs are usually the most common, and alcohol can be used to kill them, remove them with a cotton swab, or take them out by hand.
What should you do if pothos leaves turn yellow?
1. Insufficient water, leaf edges dry up: If there is insufficient water in the pothos soil, the leaf edges will dry up and turn yellow, and the leaves will also fall off. Therefore, at this time, enough water needs to be given to the pothos in time.
2. Too much water, leaf surface dull yellow: If there is too much water in the pothos soil or container, it will also cause yellow leaves. The leaf surface will appear dull yellow and lusterless, and the roots may even rot. Therefore, at this time, watering should be stopped, and the soil should be loosened appropriately.
3. Direct sunlight, leaves wilt: Pothos grows in a cool environment, so placing pothos under strong light for a long time easily causes the leaves to wilt and wither, and then turn yellow and fall off. At this time, pothos needs to be placed in a cool place with light, and watered appropriately.
4. Dim light, new leaves yellowish: If pothos is placed in a dim and unventilated place for a long time, then the green leaves will turn yellowish due to lack of chlorophyll, and especially the newly grown leaves will also be yellowish. At this time, pothos needs to be placed in a cool place with sufficient light.
5. Too much fertilizer, old leaves fall off: If too much fertilizer is applied to pothos, the old leaves will accumulate excess nutrients, then also turn yellow, and eventually fall off. At this time, reduce the frequency of fertilizing, and pour clean water to dilute the fertilizer in the soil.
6. Insufficient fertilizer, roots and leaves turn yellow: When pothos lacks nutrients and fertilizer is insufficient, the color of the leaf surface will gradually become lighter and yellow, and especially the leaves at the roots will turn yellow first and fall off. At this time, more fertilizing is needed.
7. Pay attention to ventilation, suitable temperature: The growing environment of pothos requires ventilation and coolness. In winter, the indoor temperature should not be too hot. Pay attention to ventilation, otherwise dry heat will also cause green leaves to turn yellow. Windows need to be opened for ventilation and more watering is needed to ensure nutrition.
8. Adapt to the environment, pay attention to observation: Pothos needs to adapt to a new environment, which generally takes about 30 days. During this period, individual old leaves will show signs of turning yellow. This is normal and is a running-in period. At this time, do not be too anxious to take measures. After it returns to normal, pothos will grow vigorously.