How to grow potted amaryllis? A detailed guide to the latest care methods

Amaryllis, also known as zhu ding hong, gu ting hua, hua zhou lan and so on, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Hippeastrum in the Amaryllidaceae family. For the convenience of flower growers, European and American horticulturists have specially produced it as canned flowers. It is suitable for potted display in bedrooms, living rooms, hallways and corridors, and can also be grown in courtyards or planted in flower beds, and can also be used as a cut flower. Now let us take a look at how to grow potted amaryllis!

Growth habits of amaryllis

Amaryllis is native to Brazil. It likes a warm, humid climate, and its optimum growth temperature is 18-25°C. If the soil is very moist in winter and the temperature exceeds 25°C, the stems and leaves grow vigorously, hindering dormancy, which will directly affect normal flowering the following year. Light also has a certain influence on the growth and flowering of amaryllis. Sunlight should not be too intense, and it should be kept under a shade structure. In summer, avoid long periods of direct strong light, and in winter cultivation it needs plenty of sunlight. It likes sandy loam rich in humus and with good drainage, with a pH of 5.5-6.5, and must never be waterlogged.

Propagation methods of amaryllis

1. Sowing: Amaryllis is usually sown immediately after harvest, with a high germination rate. The sowing soil is a mix of 2 parts peat soil and 1 part river sand. The seeds are relatively large and are best sown in individual spots, with a spacing of 2-3 cm. The optimum germination temperature is 15-20°C, seedlings emerge in 10-15 days, and they are transplanted when they have 2 true leaves. It takes 2-3 years from sowing to flowering.

2. Bulb division: Amaryllis is mostly propagated in large numbers by artificial bulb cutting to produce bulblets, that is, the mother bulb is cut lengthwise into several sections, then each is cut in half at the middle so that the lower end of each retains part of the basal plate as the rooting site, and then they are inserted into a cutting bed mixed with peat soil and sand. After proper watering, after 6 weeks 1-2 small bulbs can form between the scales and roots grow at the bottom.

3. Cuttage: Amaryllis can have its mother bulb cut lengthwise into several sections, then the scales are separated and inserted obliquely in vermiculite or sand. They are planted out when 2 true leaves have grown. When planting the false bulbs, if the potting soil is too loose, flowering may be delayed or the number of flowers reduced. A mixed soil of 5 parts sandy loam, 2 parts peat soil and 1 part sand can be used, and the planting depth is best when 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the soil surface.

How to grow potted amaryllis?

1. Soil: The soil for planting amaryllis should be loose, fertile sandy loam with a pH of 5.5-6.5. The potting soil can be made by mixing 2 parts decomposed manure soil, 6 parts leaf mold and 2 parts sandy soil.

2. Watering: Amaryllis needs to be kept moist, and watering should be thorough. But avoid excessive water and poor drainage. Generally, normal indoor air humidity is sufficient.

3. Sunlight: Amaryllis likes sunlight and can take a moderate amount of direct sunlight, but not for too long. It should be placed by a window with bright light, good ventilation and no strong direct light.

4. Temperature: Amaryllis likes warmth and is not cold-tolerant. In summer it should be cool, with the temperature preferably 18-22°C. During the winter dormant period it requires a cool, dry environment, and the temperature must not be lower than 5°C.

5. Fertilizing: Amaryllis likes fertilizer. When the leaves have grown to 5-6 cm long, start applying topdressing. Generally, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every half month, and after flowering change to once about every 20 days.

6. Pruning: Amaryllis grows fast and its leaves are long and dense. When repotting and changing the soil, cut off withered leaves, dead roots and pest-damaged roots and leaves, leaving the vigorous leaves.

Precautions for amaryllis

1. Amaryllis grows fast and its leaves are long and dense. When repotting and changing the soil, cut off the spoiled leaves, bitter roots and pest-damaged roots and leaves, leaving the vigorous leaves.

2. After the amaryllis flowers fade, the flower stalk should be cut off in time, because this stage after flowering is mainly for nurturing the bulb so that it fully absorbs nutrients, allowing the bulb to enlarge and produce new bulbs. Cutting off the flower stalk is to concentrate the nutrients on nurturing the bulb.

3. In post-flowering management of amaryllis, besides appropriately reducing the amount of watering, also note that the potting soil must not be waterlogged, so as to avoid rotting the bulb. It is still necessary to apply cake fertilizer water once about every 20 days to promote the enlargement of the bulb and the sprouting of new bulbs, until after November when it is moved into a greenhouse; only then can fertilizing be stopped and watering controlled, keeping the bulb from drying out.

4. During dormancy, watering of amaryllis must be strictly controlled, and the amount of water should be controlled to just enough to keep the bulb from withering. At the end of December or in early January, a light thorough watering can be given in the pot to awaken the dormant amaryllis. After about a week, apply a dilute calcium phosphate fertilizer solution once, and keeping the temperature at around 16 degrees can promote sprouting and earlier flowering.