How to Fertilize Pothos Properly? A Guide to the Correct Fertilizing Method

Pothos survives as soon as it touches water, and because of its tenacious vitality it is called the “flower of life.” When grown indoors, whether in a pot or as a few stem cuttings in water, it can grow well. It can be allowed to climb a cylinder made of palm fiber, or trained into a trailing form and placed in a study or on a windowsill, or simply grown in a pot. Now let us take a look at how to fertilize pothos properly!

How to fertilize pothos?

Pothos fertilizing should be mainly nitrogen fertilizer, supplemented by potassium fertilizer. Before the pothos growth period arrives in spring, apply a 0.3% solution of ammonium sulfate or urea once every 10 days or so, and use a 0.5-1‰ urea solution as a foliar feed once, so as to both satisfy the growth needs of pothos and maintain the green luster of the leaves. Fertilizing should be stopped in winter. At the same time, each time you water the pothos you can add a compound fertilizer at a concentration of 1000 times, and apply a 600-times compound fertilizer once every half month.

How to water pothos?

When watering pothos, be careful not to pour water directly into the pot; instead, first slowly pour the water in, wait for it to seep down, then spray evenly and wait for the water to penetrate. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where aerial roots grow on the palm pole, to reduce insufficient water uptake by the roots caused by too-rapid evaporation. When watering, be sure to water thoroughly at one time to maintain soil moisture. In the north, pothos can overwinter safely at a room temperature above 10°C, and can grow normally at a room temperature above 20°C. When watering in winter, first let the water stand indoors for a day, and water it once it is basically the same as room temperature, so as to avoid damage to the pothos roots from water that is too cold.

How to grow pothos?

1. Light: Pothos is not strongly phototropic. However, in the north during autumn and winter, to make up for the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, the light intensity should be increased. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because the leaves may be frostbitten within a very short time.

2. Humidity: Pothos grows faster in an environment with higher air humidity. It is recommended to maintain indoor humidity; you can use a humidifier to increase air humidity, or cover the plant with a transparent plastic bag to create a small greenhouse effect, but this should not exceed two hours.

3. Temperature: Pothos is very sensitive to temperature, and is easily frostbitten when the temperature is too low. A room temperature of about 20 degrees is enough. If heating equipment is used, the pothos leaves must not be too close to it. Keeping the indoor temperature above 10 degrees allows it to pass the winter safely.

4. Fertilizing: Because pothos grown indoors absorbs nutrients less abundantly than outdoors, it is recommended to apply fertilizer once every half month. You can buy fertilizer specially made for pothos on the market. Or ask the flower shop owner to help choose fertilizer.

5. Watering: When watering pothos, do not pour water directly into the pot; instead, first slowly pour the water in, wait for it to seep down, then spray evenly and wait for the water to penetrate. In addition, water should also be sprayed where aerial roots grow, to reduce insufficient water uptake by the roots caused by too-rapid evaporation.

6. Shaping: Shaping and pruning of pothos is done in spring. When the stems and vines have covered the palm pole and the shoot tips exceed the palm pole by about 20 cm, cut off the stem tips of 2-3 of the plants by 40 cm. After the cut shoots sprout new buds and new leaves, cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants.

7. Pests and diseases: Pothos plants are very susceptible to problems from pests and pathogens. Typical pests affecting pothos include mealybugs, red spider mites, scale insects, and so on. Mealybugs are usually the most common, and can be controlled with alcohol, removed with cotton swabs, or picked off by hand.