How to Grow Yulan Magnolia? A Complete Guide to the Latest Cultivation Methods

Yulan magnolia is a plant endemic to China, also known as magnolia, xinyi, mubi, etc. It is a famous early-spring ornamental flower and a deciduous shrub of the genus Magnolia in the family Magnoliaceae. When it blooms in early spring, the whole tree is covered with purple-red flowers, graceful and elegant, with a distinctive charm. It is suitable for planting in matching arrangements in front of halls and behind courtyards in classical gardens, and can also be planted alone or scattered in small courtyards. Now let us take a look at the cultivation methods for Yulan magnolia!

Growth Habits of Yulan Magnolia

Yulan magnolia is produced in Fujian, Hubei, Sichuan, and northwestern Yunnan in China, growing on mountain slopes and forest edges at an altitude of 300-1600 m. It is a traditional flower of China with more than 2,000 years of history, cultivated in major cities and has been introduced to cities in Europe and America. It likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant, and can overwinter outdoors. It loves high and dry conditions and avoids low humidity; waterlogging at the planting site easily causes root rot. It prefers fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil.

Propagation Methods of Yulan Magnolia

1. Seed propagation: After the seeds of Yulan magnolia mature in September-October, sow them immediately after collection. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water at about 50°C. Sow in furrows. Use fertile sandy loam for the seedling bed. After sowing, cover with 2 cm of soil, water thoroughly, cover with grass, and keep the soil moist regularly. Seedlings generally emerge in about 2 months, and in the spring of the following year after the soil thaws, divide and transplant them.

2. Grafting propagation: When grafting Yulan magnolia, select 2-3 year old magnolia seedlings as rootstock. Bud grafting is carried out in July-August, and cut grafting in autumn. After cut grafting, cover the scion completely with soil, and remove the covering soil in late spring of the following year. Cut grafting can also be carried out in a greenhouse; after grafting, store in moist sand, and after the graft union heals, transplant before budding in the following spring.

3. Cutting propagation: Before cutting Yulan magnolia, dip the base of the cuttings in rooting powder or soak them in a 25 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid solution for 20 hours, which can promote rooting and increase the survival rate. Collect 1-year-old branches from the mother plant of Yulan magnolia as cuttings. The cuttings are 15 cm long, retain 2 leaves at the upper end, and cut off 1/3-1/2 of the leaf surface of each leaf. After cutting, pay attention to shading and watering.

4. Ordinary layering: Ordinary layering is best done in February-March. Cut halfway through the base of the branch to be layered, then cut upward a section, insert a piece of tile in the middle, then gently press it into the soil without breaking it. Use a thick “U”-shaped wire to insert into the soil and fix it to prevent it from lifting, then pile soil on top. For spring layering, once root buds emerge, they can be cut off and planted separately.

5. Air layering: Before the dog days, select healthy, disease-free young branches (1.5-2 cm in diameter) on the mother plant, cut a slit at the lower part of the fork, then cover with a bamboo tube or bottomless clay pot, fill it with potting soil, tie it tightly outside with fine rope, being careful not to disturb it, and spray a small amount of water frequently to keep it moist. New roots can grow around May of the following year, then remove and plant in place.

Cultivation Methods of Yulan Magnolia

1. Potting soil: Yulan magnolia prefers loose, fertile acidic and slightly acidic soil. An equal mix of leaf mold and vegetable garden soil can be used as potting soil. The pot should be slightly deeper and larger, and put some broken hard plastic foam blocks at the bottom of the pot to enhance air permeability and drainage and prevent root rot. Repot and change the soil once every year or every other year after flowering, retaining 1/2 to 1/3 of the old soil.

2. Fertilization: Yulan magnolia likes fertilizer. Fertilization should focus on the two key periods: 2 months before flowering and 5 months after flowering. Apply a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer about once every ten days. The former makes the buds swell and the flowers open, while the latter promotes more bud formation and more flowers the following spring. When leaves fall in early winter, apply a fertilizer mainly of phosphorus and potassium once to enhance its cold resistance and overwintering ability.

3. Light and temperature: Yulan magnolia prefers a warm, humid environment with plenty of sunlight and is relatively cold-tolerant. Placed in a sunny courtyard or rooftop garden, it grows robustly and luxuriantly with more sunlight. Under semi-shade conditions it can still grow, but it is thinner and weaker with fewer flowers, and in too much shade it will not bloom. It is relatively cold-tolerant, and in Beijing and areas to the south it can overwinter outdoors.

4. Water and fertilizer: Yulan magnolia likes moisture and fears waterlogging, so timely and appropriate watering is very important. From the beginning of spring to flowering, keep the potting soil moist but not wet. After flowering, keep the potting soil moist but not waterlogged. After leaf fall, keep the potting soil slightly moist but not dry. At no time should it be drought-stricken or waterlogged. Especially in the rainy season, pay attention to drainage and waterlogging prevention.

5. Pruning: Yulan magnolia has strong sprouting ability at the roots. If propagation is not needed, prune as it grows, and keep 3 main stems per pot. For branches that are too tall or too long, they can be cut short right after flowering when leaves have just unfolded. Its healing ability is poor, so after pruning apply sulfur powder to prevent decay. Do not prune unless necessary. After flowering, if seeds are not needed for propagation, cut off the faded flowers together with the base.