Latest Prices for Bowl Lotus Seeds and a Detailed Guide to Growing Them

Bowl lotus is also known as pot lotus, basin lotus, table lotus and so on. It is a perennial aquatic plant of the genus Nelumbo in the family Nymphaeaceae with multi-noded rhizomes. Since ancient times it has been a precious aquatic flower of palace gardens and private home gardens, and in today's modern landscape architecture it is increasingly favored and used more widely. Now let us take a look at the price of bowl lotus seeds and how to grow them!

How much does a jin of bowl lotus seeds cost?

The price of bowl lotus seeds is about 15 to 20 yuan per jin, but it varies with seed quality, variety, place of origin and market. Bowl lotus has extremely strong adaptability and can be propagated by division or by seed. Before sowing, first damage the seed coat with an iron file, then soak the seeds in clean water, changing the water once a day. Once 2 to 3 leaves have grown, they can be planted. In the early stage of planting, keep the water surface about 2 cm deep, and after standing leaves grow, keep it at 10 cm.

Sowing methods for bowl lotus

1. Sowing time: Lotus seeds have no dormant period. As long as the water temperature can be kept above 16°C, they can be sown in all four seasons. Under suitable temperature and light conditions, it takes 50 to 60 days from sowing to flowering in spring and 60 to 80 days in autumn.

2. Seed treatment: The shell of lotus seeds is hard and dense, so before soaking the seeds, the shell must be opened by hand. Rub the end with the small dent on rough cement ground until a layer of skin is worn away. Do not damage the kernel inside, and do not remove the shell, so that the seed can absorb water and swell.

3. Soaking seeds to promote germination: Soak seeds whose shells have been broken in warm water at about 20 to 40 degrees. For small household quantities, they can be placed in a thermos to keep warm. Generally, after 3 to 5 days of soaking to promote germination, they will sprout, with the embryo emerging from the opening.

Growing methods for bowl lotus

1. Transplanting: For growing bowl lotus, choose a bottomless ceramic pot or plastic flowerpot with a diameter of 45 to 75 cm. Add half a pot of garden soil or river pond mud. When transplanting, press the fine roots of the small lotus seedling into the mud, one plant per pot, then add an appropriate amount of water after transplanting, to the extent that the water does not submerge the small lotus leaves.

2. Water: Bowl lotus needs different amounts of watering at different growth stages. When first planted, do not water too much, as too much water will hinder the growth of young roots and cause root rot. As the leaves grow larger, gradually add more clean water. In summer, water once in the morning and once in the evening.

3. Fertilizing: Before planting bowl lotus, mix a small amount of decomposed cake fertilizer liquid or soybean meal or peanut meal into the potting soil as a base fertilizer, but do not over-fertilize. Generally, mixing a small amount of cake fertilizer powder and other base fertilizers into the growing soil at planting time can meet its needs for the whole year.

4. Light: Bowl lotus likes abundant sunlight. If it receives less than 4 hours of light per day, it cannot form flower buds. During the growth period, it should be placed on a sunny balcony or a sunny windowsill so that it receives full sun. In summer and early autumn, appropriate shading is needed around midday.

5. Pruning: When the leaves of bowl lotus grow too many and too dense, some leaves can be removed appropriately to help the plant breathe and ventilate. This also helps it bear flowers. When growing multiple plants in the same container, if the leaves are found to be competing for sunlight, they should be divided into separate pots in time.

Pest and disease control for bowl lotus

1. Rot disease

[Symptoms] The disease occurs on the whole plant, starting from the seed root and spreading to the underground stem, leaf stalk, leaf blade, flower stalk and other parts. The underground stem shows no symptoms at first, but some of the vessels in its cross-section turn light brown or brown and gradually spread.

[Control] Spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 600 times dilution plus 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 600 times dilution.

2. Leaf rot

[Symptoms] It harms the leaves floating flat on the water surface. The lesions are irregular in shape, some in an “S” shape, some shaped like earthworms, brown or dark brown. Severely affected leaves turn brown and rot and are difficult to lift away from the water surface.

[Control] At the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800 times dilution, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 800 times dilution, or 30% basic copper sulfate suspension concentrate 500 times dilution, once every 10 days or so, for 2 to 3 consecutive treatments.

3. Spot rot

[Symptoms] Small water-soaked black spots first appear on the leaves, then expand into round to polygonal or irregular lesions with black edges and yellow halos, gray-black in the middle with concentric rings. The diseased parts tend to crack or fall off, causing the leaves and leaf margins to become incomplete and irregular.

[Control] 50% carbendazim wettable powder 600 times dilution, or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 600 times dilution, or 36% thiophanate-methyl suspension concentrate 500 times dilution, once every 10 days or so, for 2 to 3 consecutive treatments.

4. Anthracnose

[Symptoms] It occurs on the leaves. Small brown spots first appear, then the spots expand into nearly round lesions more than 10 mm in size, with darker edges.

[Control] 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 600 times dilution, or 36% thiophanate-methyl suspension concentrate 500 times dilution, or 50% benomyl wettable powder 1500 times dilution, or 80% anthracnose thiram wettable powder 800 times dilution, once every 10 days or so, for 2 to 3 consecutive treatments.