The latest cultivation methods and precautions for cherry tomatoes

Also known as small tomatoes or cherry tomatoes, they have high nutritional value and a unique flavor, offering both edible and ornamental value, and are deeply favored by consumers. Sometimes when we want to eat some small tomatoes, we still have to go to a lot of trouble to buy them at a fruit stand, the journey is far, and we do not know whether they are pollution-free, which leaves a lot of guarantees lacking. Let me teach you a trick: grow small tomatoes on the balcony, and they are absolutely pure natural food.

1. Preparation before planting

Soil preparation: If the soil is dug back from a flowerbed or field, first sieve it and crush all the large clumps. Then disinfect the soil. There are generally three ways. The quicker way is to wrap the soil well, find an abandoned pot, and steam it for 30 minutes; the high temperature will remove pathogens in the soil. Spreading the soil in a thin layer and sunning it for 5 to 10 days can also achieve a disinfection effect. If you are not in a hurry, you can wait until summer, moisten the soil, seal and wrap it well, and sun it; this way the temperature in the soil becomes especially high and can kill microorganisms. Finally, mix fertilizer into the soil in a certain proportion. The organic fertilizer mixed in must be fermented and thoroughly decomposed, and chemical fertilizers should be used as little as possible.

Seedling stage: First is seed disinfection. Soak the seeds in warm water at 55 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring continuously, with the amount of water about 5 times the volume of the seeds. After cooling to 28 degrees, maintain this temperature and soak for 12 to 24 hours, changing the water once or twice during this period. Next is germination. Drain the disinfected seeds, wrap them in a wet towel, and place them in an environment of 28 to 30 degrees. Rinse them once a day with clean water, and in 1 to 2 days the seeds will germinate.

2. Planting

Dig a small hole 1 cm deep in the soil, put the germinated seeds in, and cover with 0.5 to 1 cm of loose soil, maintaining the temperature at about 25 degrees. It is best to water this soil thoroughly the day before. Before the seedlings push through the soil, water more to keep the soil moist. After three to four days, the two cotyledons of the seeds will emerge from the soil. Then keep the daytime temperature unchanged, and let the nighttime temperature drop to about 20 degrees, until the number of leaves increases to four or five. After that, when watering, you need to water only when dry and let it stay wet in between; that is, water after the soil has dried, and water thoroughly. After each watering, use a small hook to loosen the soil about 5 cm deep.

3. Transplanting

After the seedlings grow 4-5 leaves, they can be transplanted. Dig the seedlings out of the original small pot with soil, dig a hole in the large flowerpot, place the entire small soil ball in, and water thoroughly. Transplanting allows the seedlings to break roots and regrow, so the crops will grow better. After transplanting, in principle, do not water or apply additional fertilizer, but this should also be based on the actual situation; if the soil is too dry, add some appropriately.

4. Flowering and fruiting

About 15 days after transplanting, the tomato seedlings have already begun to grow in the large pot. After the plant begins to flower and set fruit, water thoroughly and apply additional fertilizer, then every 7 to 10 days, water and apply additional fertilizer, and loosen the soil. Maintain the daytime temperature at 25 to 30 degrees and the nighttime temperature at 15 to 20 degrees. When it grows to about 40 cm, you need to make a support to let the plant climb along the support and continue growing, preventing lodging. Note that the support must follow the original growth direction and must not twist it.

Tomatoes are bisexual flowers and generally pollinate automatically. You can also gently tap the plant with a bamboo pole to promote pollination. In addition, when the plant's branches grow to about 10 cm, prune the branches in time to prevent the side branches from growing wildly and affecting fruit growth. [span]From sowing to harvest takes about 3 months.

Soil

Q: What exactly is the difference between ordinary soil, the substrate sold on the market, and nutrient solution, and which is better for growing vegetables?

A: This involves the concepts of soil cultivation and soilless cultivation. First, cultivating crops with traditional field soil is called soil cultivation. Before cultivation, the soil needs to be mixed 1:1 with fully decomposed organic fertilizer or peat before use. Thoroughly decomposed here means the organic fertilizer has no smell at all; otherwise it will burn the seedlings.

Second, cultivating crops with nutrient solution or with a substrate proportionally mixed from peat, vermiculite, perlite, etc. is called soilless cultivation. Nutrient solution is very difficult for ordinary citizens to buy, and even if bought, without professional machines it is not suitable for growing vegetables, but is more suitable for use as a fertilizer for topdressing.

Third, the pre-mixed substrate sold on the market has the advantage that it does not need base fertilizer mixed in, does not need disinfection, and has good air permeability. The planting effect is no different from ordinary soil.

In addition, hydroponics is best done with a special device in which the nutrient solution circulates, which can ensure the respiration of the plant roots. Such devices come in many forms, such as ladder racks, columns, and wall-mounted types. The purchase price is about 1000 yuan.

Containers

Q: What kind of containers are actually good?

A: Containers are generally chosen from whatever is available locally; as long as there is a drainage hole, they can be used. However, clay containers are more recommended because they have better air permeability. In addition, the size of the container chosen should depend on the type of vegetable. Generally speaking, fruiting vegetables require a flowerpot with both a diameter and depth of more than 30 cm; leafy vegetables can use a flowerpot with a diameter of 15 cm to 20 cm and a depth of more than 20 cm.

Tips: Pest and disease control

Household cultivation generally does not have pest or disease problems. Usually pay attention to controlling humidity so it is not too high, and water appropriately. If small insects appear on the plant, you can regularly spray soapy water or water soaked with tobacco shreds at a cycle of 15 days; promptly remove rotten fruit and cut off rotten leaves.