How to make a strawberry bonsai? Latest method explained in detail

Yesterday morning, Xu Peiying, a member of the Haifeng Farm Professional Cooperative, showed the strawberry bonsai they grow. The cooperative used seedling greenhouses to grow more than 3000 pots of strawberry bonsai. At present, the strawberries in the bonsai have begun to bloom and bear fruit, and the whole greenhouse gives off a faint sweet fragrance. According to reports, one pot of strawberry bonsai can bear 2 jin of strawberries. Sold as a bonsai, it can fetch about 80 yuan.

Strawberries are not only delicious, but also a potted plant that combines foliage, flowers and fruit in one, with relatively high ornamental value.

1. Advantages of potted cultivation: Strawberry fruit has a fresh and refreshing flavor, bright red color, and an elegant and beautiful shape. After potting, the plant is petite and the fruit-bearing ornamental period is long. White flowers, green leaves and red fruit set each other off. When placed indoors (a clay pot can be covered with a white plastic pot for a more pleasing look), its ornamental effect is the same as that of flowers, and it can also be eaten, achieving two goals at once.

2. Variety selection: Strawberry belongs to the Rosaceae family as a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. There are many varieties suitable for potting. It is advisable to choose varieties with shallow dormancy, good fruit shape and a rich fragrance. For example, Dasselect, Fengxiang, Jingxiang, Taida No. 1 and others are relatively suitable.

3. Potting soil preparation: Select high-quality vegetable garden soil, leaf mold and organic fertilizer, and mix them in a ratio of 3?1?1 for later use. When preparing, do not use soil that has previously grown strawberries, to prevent the occurrence of continuous cropping diseases.

4. Temporary planting: In mid-to-late August, select strong seedlings and plant them temporarily in small flower pots. Strawberry seedlings are required to have three leaves and one heart, and a well-developed root system. 1 to 2 mm thick. The planting depth should be shallow enough not to expose the roots and deep enough not to bury the heart. After planting, place them in a shady place to recover for about 5 days.

After recovery, keep the potting soil alternately dry and moist in the sun, but it must not be too dry, so as not to affect growth. During the temporary planting period, control nitrogen fertilizer, increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and cultivate strong seedlings. The fertilization concentration is generally 0.2%, once every half month.

5. Final planting: In early October, plant in flower pots with a diameter of about 20 cm. First place a tile at the bottom, take culture soil and put it into the pot, press slightly firm, with the height being half the height of the flower pot.

Then take 3 to 4 strawberry seedlings and plant them with the arched back facing outward, because the direction in which strawberries bloom and bear fruit is consistent with the direction of the arched back, so this can make the flowers and fruit exposed outside the flower pot, with uniform fruit coloring, neat and beautiful. After final planting, water thoroughly once to help the plants recover.

6. Management after final planting: Water plays an important role in the growth of strawberries. After final planting, the potting soil must be kept moist and not dry, with frequent light watering, so that the plants grow robustly. After recovery, water with dilute soybean cake water about once every half month until budding. When watering, slowly pour from below the leaves to keep the leaf surface clean and beautiful.

7. Management during the flowering and fruiting period: In late October, spray gibberellin once to promote flower bud differentiation. After budding, thin flowers and fruit in time. Remove small, rotten, diseased and deformed flowers and fruit, as well as lateral buds extending from the leaf axils, and remove old leaves and diseased leaves to increase ventilation and light transmission.

8. Management after fruiting: After fruiting ends, no longer remove lateral buds. Keep 3 to 5 lateral buds to form runners, and grow them indoors as hanging ornaments.