The Latest Method for Grafting Schlumbergera onto Pereskia aculeata
There are many rootstocks to choose from when grafting Schlumbergera. This article mainly uses grafting Schlumbergera onto Pereskia aculeata as an example. Gardeners should know that every grafting rootstock has its own advantages and disadvantages, but they all share one thing in common: they cannot make the scion grow quickly and permanently. For example, once a cactus becomes woody, the growth rate of the scion will noticeably slow down.
Actually, there is nothing particularly tricky about the grafting method itself. This article mainly discusses a few key points that gardeners need to pay attention to during the grafting process:
First, on choosing the individual rootstock
If grafting a cactus ball, compared with Pereskia aculeata and Pereskiopsis, Pereskia aculeata does not woody very well, and the pointed cut is very easy to break during grafting. So when choosing a rootstock, pick one with a stem diameter of 0.5 cm or more, and a stem that is overall more grayish-white is better. Because we are grafting Schlumbergera, the requirements can be relaxed appropriately, since Schlumbergera is not very heavy.
Second, trimming the cut on the rootstock stem
This is relatively simple. Use a sharp blade to cut a slit about 1 cm deep in the middle of the rootstock (this depth should match the length of the treated Schlumbergera stem).
Third, treating the scion (Schlumbergera)
Choose a green, healthy mother Schlumbergera plant free of pests and diseases, and cut off the top 2 to 4 nodes of one-year-old branches as the scion. Use a blade to shave off the lower 1/4 to 1/3, exposing the white xylem, shaving both sides evenly to form a wedge shape. When cutting, it is best to do it in a single cut, without repeated cutting.
Fourth, care after grafting
After grafting, for ordinary gardeners, using plastic wrap or string to secure the wound and placing it in a cool, ventilated spot is enough. It really is quite simple, so gardeners can give it a try.