What to do when kidney beans don't form pods? The latest solutions are here
Kidney beans often appear on our dining table. We usually stir-fry kidney beans with meat or simply stir-fry them plain, and many adults and children love eating them. In addition, kidney beans adapt well to the environment, so many homemakers plant a few in their own small vegetable garden or on the balcony. However, once planted, quite a few problems appear. The most common one is that kidney beans do not form pods, which means the effort was wasted. Therefore, what Qinnong Network shares with you today are several relatively simple ways to deal with kidney beans not forming pods, and we hope they are useful to you.
Reasons for not forming pods
There are many reasons kidney beans do not form pods. For example, if the planting time is wrong, then although kidney beans will grow branches and leaves, it is very normal for them not to form pods, so kidney beans are generally planted around April in spring. Next, if the soil is unsuitable, they will also not form pods. Improper fertilizer use, or temperatures that are too low or too high, as well as water management and other aspects, can all cause kidney beans not to form pods, so we make different solutions according to different situations.
Solutions for not forming pods
1. Remove branches and leaves
During growth, kidney beans need sufficient light, but because the branches and leaves are too lush, the field looks relatively closed and the air permeability is extremely poor. Too many nutrients are consumed, but basically all of them are used for excessive vegetative growth of branches and leaves. Therefore, when the kidney bean seedlings grow to a certain extent, we should remove the excess leaves. At the same time, remove the excessively growing branches, leaving only the main branches and a small number of side branches. When the kidney bean seedlings grow to about 50 cm, remove the tips to let them grow other branches. This reduces unnecessary nutrient consumption and at the same time increases the pod-setting rate.
2. Planting density
The planting density should not be too low. Generally, we plant at most about 2,000 plants per mu on average. The best planting spacing is 30 to 40 cm between each plant and 40 to 50 cm between each row. Planting at this density also makes field management more convenient. In addition, the light transmission and ventilation of kidney beans are relatively good, so after kidney beans bloom, their fruit retention capacity is better, which can reduce pod drop and increase the pod-setting rate.
3. Fertilization method
The fertilization method is quite critical. If the fertilizer used is incorrect, then kidney beans will only grow seedlings and not form pods. Generally, during the growth of kidney beans, we need to fertilize at least three times. The first time is after planting. To promote seedlings, when applying farmyard manure, we add a small amount of urea in the middle. The second fertilization is at flowering time. We generally use potassium fertilizer and phosphorus fertilizer, which can play a role in protecting flowers. The third fertilization is after flowers drop and pods form. At this time, we need to apply boron fertilizer. Boron fertilizer can increase the success rate of pod setting in kidney beans. We generally do not apply nitrogen fertilizer. If we must apply it, then only apply a tiny amount, because nitrogen fertilizer has a great effect on pod setting.
4. Build supports and trellises
When planting kidney beans, be sure to remember to build trellises for them so they grow along the supports. This can not only enhance the field's ventilation, but also avoid damage from some pests and diseases. Generally, we build A-shaped supports, then connect each support with rope. In this way, each kidney bean seedling receives relatively even light, pollination is also much better, and it also provides convenience for later harvesting.
5. Water and temperature management
About one week before the flowering period of kidney beans, we should water the kidney beans so that they have enough water to ensure successful pod setting after flowering. If they are not watered, then the phenomenon everyone talks about, where they only bloom but do not form pods, will appear. At the same time, after pod setting, another watering is needed. If watering is forgotten, it will also cause pod drop. Of course, if there is too much water in the field at ordinary times, the water should also be drained from the field in time, otherwise they will not form pods either. Finally, the planting temperature generally cannot be lower than 10 degrees, and of course cannot be higher than 28 degrees, so we must maintain the field temperature well in ordinary management and can preserve heat and dissipate heat through artificial means.