The rich, sweet-and-tart flavor of Caoshan mandarins comes from a century of terroir in the volcanic soil of Datun Mountain

Situated in the Datun Mountain area, with the entire Taipei Basin in full view, Lu Min-hui and her husband rarely have time to stop and admire it. What awaits them are zigzagging steep slopes averaging over 30 degrees, fierce mountain winds and sudden downpours, and labor that never pauses all day long. "Only in this way can we carry on this century of history that began in the Japanese colonial period and preserve the rich sweet-and-tart flavor of Caoshan mandarins," Lu Min-hui says. She calls this the fruit grower's sense of duty: to keep going until they can no longer do it.