A Complete Guide to the Latest Cherry Tree Grafting Methods

Cherry is a tree fruit that comes to market relatively early, known as “the first branch of a hundred fruits”. The fruit can be eaten as a fruit, is very rich in nutrients, and is much loved by everyone. So how do you graft a cherry tree? Below, the editor brings you the grafting methods for cherry trees:

Cultivation of Grafted Seedlings

1. Collecting scions: Scion collection can be done 1 month before bud break. Choose fruiting branches and vegetative branches that grow vigorously, are high-quality and high-yielding, have strong adaptability, and are free of pests and diseases; thick branches from the outer canopy are best. After collection, seal with wax and bundle them by variety. Store at a low temperature of 5--8 degrees C, taking them out as needed.

2. Grafting at the right time: Spring branch grafting is done from when the rootstock begins to grow until just before the buds break and leaves unfold. The specific timing varies by region and climate; for example, Shandong in late March to early April, Henan in late March, Hebei in mid-to-late April, and Liaoning in early May.

Grafting Methods

Cherry tree grafting techniques usually use the bud grafting method and the plate bud grafting method.

1. Bud grafting

(1) Bud grafting at the right time: The suitable time for bud grafting is divided into an early period and a late period. The early period is within the l 5-24 days of mid-to-late March, and the late period is from the end of mid-July to August, sometimes extending to mid-September, lasting 50 days. Grafting too early: the scion is tender, the cortex is thin, and the grafted buds are not fully developed; grafting too late: the branches have mostly stopped growing, and the grafted buds are not easy to peel off.

(2) Selecting scions and buds: When bud grafting at different times, scions and grafted buds must be selected differently. For early-period bud grafting of sweet cherry nursery stock grafting and post-grafting care, choose 5-6 plump buds from the middle of vigorous branches as grafted buds. For late-period bud grafting, all buds on vigorous scions, except basal buds and autumn shoot buds, can be used as grafted buds. For bud grafting in September, choose plump buds from the water sprouts in the inner part of the canopy as grafted buds.

(3) Cutting the grafted bud: When bud grafting, first cut the grafted bud from the scion. The bud plate of the grafted bud should be large, about 25 cm long and about i cm wide. This increases the contact surface between the rootstock and bud cambium and raises the survival rate. If the bud plate of the grafted bud is too small, it is not easy to survive; even if the rootstock and bud heal and survive, the grafted bud is also prone to bursting and lifting, or poor growth and even death.

(4) Grafting and tying: After the grafted bud is cut, make a horizontal cut on the rootstock seedling near the ground, about I cm long, reaching the xylem. Then make a vertical cut downward from the center of the horizontal cut, 2.5 cm long, reaching the xylem. When inserting the bud plate, use the tip of the knife to gently peel apart the two cortex flaps on the left and right from top to bottom. Then gently insert the grafted bud into the rootstock cortex. Never push it in hard or straight, to avoid bruising the grafted bud or the rootstock cortex, causing gumming and affecting survival. Finally, bind tightly with a polyethylene film strip about t cm wide. After bud grafting, it can heal in half a month, and the binding can be removed after 20 days. The survival rate is above 80%.

2. Plate bud grafting

Plate bud grafting can be carried out throughout the year, as follows.

(1) Collecting scions: The rootstock used for grafting should be more than 1 cm thick, and the scion should preferably be collected from 1-year-old branches, choosing plump buds as grafted buds.

(2) Cutting the grafted bud: When cutting the grafted bud, make the cut 1.5 cm below the grafted bud, and gently cut the bud plate down from the scion, forming an oval bud plate 2.5 cm long and --2 mm thick.

(3) Careful grafting: When grafting, choose a smooth part at the base of the rootstock 1 cm from the ground, and gently shave off a layer of bark along the vertical direction, forming a long oval cut surface about 25 cm long and 1-2 mm deep (just enough to expose the yellow-green cortex). Then press the bud plate tightly against the cut surface of the rootstock and tie it tightly with a plastic film strip.

Post-Grafting Management

1. Cutting the rootstock: Before the grafted surviving seedling sprouts, cut off the rootstock seedling stem 0.2 cm above the grafted bud. Then transplant at a plant spacing of 15--20 cm and a row spacing of 50--60 cm.

2. Removing sprouts: For bud-grafted seedlings after cutting the rootstock and transplanting, the rootstock buds sprout first. The grafted buds sprout later. Therefore, when the rootstock buds sprout, promptly remove the sprouts on the rootstock to encourage the grafted buds to sprout and grow. After that, continue removing sprouts 3-4 times. After the grafted buds sprout, choose to keep 1 vigorous new shoot.

3. Tying: When the new shoot is 10 cm long, insert a support stake near the seedling. Tie the new shoot to the support stake with hemp rope or a plastic film strip to prevent the new shoot from breaking in the wind. After that, as the new shoot grows, tie it once every 24 cm.    

4. Fertilizer and water: After sprouting, apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer 3 times in a row every 20 days. Each time apply l 20--150 kg of urea per hectare with water. After May, no more topdressing, to prevent the seedling from growing excessively.

5. Pest and disease control: During seedling growth, pest and disease control must be done well. After sprouting, strictly guard against the small gray weevil; it can be caught by hand, or poisoned bait made with 80% trichlorfon crystal can be used to trap and kill it. In June-July, 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate 1000x solution or 2.5% deltamethrin emulsifiable concentrate 2500x solution can be used to control the lesser peach fruit moth. In July-August, spray 1-2 times with 65% zineb wettable powder 500x solution, or 40% mancozeb 600-800x solution, or zinc sulfate lime solution (zinc sulfate 1 part, slaked lime 4 parts, water 240 parts, fully mixed) to prevent bacterial shot hole disease and prevent early leaf drop. For pests such as tortricid moths and slug moths, spray 25% chlorbenzuron No. 3 2000x solution or 50% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate 1000-1500x solution for control.

 A good variety is too important for cherries. Only cherries with good quality on the market can sell for a high price, so you might as well try the editor's method and improve your cherry varieties.