How to Grow a Lemon Tree: The Latest Planting Techniques and Methods Tutorial

The lemon is a plant of the genus Citrus in the family Rutaceae, native to Southeast Asia. Its main producing areas are now the United States, Italy, Spain and Greece, and it is also cultivated in Taiwan, China, Fujian, Guangdong, Guangxi and other places in China. It is rich in citric acid, so it is known as a “citric acid warehouse” and has high planting value. Let us take a look at lemon tree planting techniques together below!

Lemon Tree Planting Conditions

The lemon likes warmth, tolerates shade, is not cold-hardy, and also fears heat. It is suitable for cultivation in subtropical areas with warm winters and cool summers. The suitable annual average temperature is 17-19℃, the annual effective accumulated temperature (≥10℃) is above 5500℃, the average January temperature is 6-8℃, and the extreme minimum temperature is above -3℃. The annual rainfall is above 1000 mm, and the annual sunshine hours are above 1000 hours. It is suitable for planting on warm gentle slopes with deep soil and good drainage. The most suitable soil pH for lemons is between 5.5 and 7.0. The plant grows relatively fast, reaching 3-6 m in height, and has a relatively large fertilizer requirement. It sends out shoots, flowers and fruits multiple times a year, and the yield often varies greatly depending on how well it is managed.

Lemon Tree Grafting Propagation

1. Cut grafting: cut grafting is mostly used in spring. Grafting works better when the sap begins to flow. In the Sichuan and Chongqing areas, grafting can be done in the half month before and after the Rain Water solar term, and in Guangdong the survival rate is high when grafting is done within 40 days after the Beginning of Spring. In years with low temperatures, the grafting time can be postponed to May. Cut grafting is simple to perform, sprouts quickly and grows rapidly, and can reach the standard for leaving the nursery in the same year. Field planting can be carried out in autumn or the following spring.

2. Side grafting: side grafting is generally used for autumn grafting and can be carried out from after the Rain Water solar term to early November. The survival rate of side grafting is relatively high. If it does not take the first time, it can be re-grafted 2-3 times. The scion cutting method is the same as for cut grafting. At about 10 cm above the ground, choose a smooth surface and make a vertical cut from top to bottom, about 2 cm long, with the cutting depth preferably not damaging or only slightly damaging the xylem. After opening the cut, immediately insert the scion and bind it tightly from bottom to top with plastic film strips to seal the joint.

3. Bud grafting: bud grafting can be divided into two types, small-bud cut grafting and small-bud side grafting. Small-bud cut grafting is mainly carried out in spring, and small-bud side grafting is mainly carried out in autumn. Bud grafting is fast, highly efficient, and causes a small wound on the rootstock, making it easy to heal. When cutting the bud, hold the scion upside down in the left hand, hold the knife in the right hand, keep the blade flat, and cut from 1 cm below the bud up to 0.5 cm above the bud, so that the bud carries a little xylem. Then use the knife to make a vertical downward cut on the scion and remove the bud piece.

Lemon Tree Orchard Establishment and Field Planting

1. Orchard establishment on flat land: when using paddy fields to establish a lemon orchard, high furrows should be made along the slope to drain water and dry the field. After the soil turns white the following year, mark the points according to the planting row and plant spacing, and build steamed-bun-shaped mounds 40-50 cm high, with the planting mound base about 1 m in diameter.

2. Orchard establishment on sloping land: for orchard establishment on sloping land, methods such as building contour terraces, contour trenches or fish-scale pits can be adopted to solve soil fertility improvement and soil and water conservation. Contour terraces are suitable for slopes of 100-25 degrees, contour trenches are suitable for slopes of 6-100 degrees with deep soil, and fish-scale pits are suitable for steep slopes and complex terrain where building level terraces or contour trenches is relatively difficult.

3. Lemon field planting: the planting density is generally 3×4 m, with 55 plants per mu. The planting period is generally spring and autumn, and autumn transplanting is preferably carried out in September-October. Before planting, dig planting holes (trenches) measuring 60×60×60 cm. Apply 30-50 kg of organic fertilizer, 0.5-1 kg of superphosphate, or more than 20 kg of decomposed human and livestock manure water per hole. Mix the fertilizer thoroughly with the soil, then cover with soil to form a planting mound 20 cm above the ground surface. When planting, remove the grafting film from the seedlings, trim damaged roots, and cut off overly long main roots and tender late-autumn shoots, etc. Make a small hole on the planting mound, place the seedling in, cover with soil while arranging the roots, gently lift the seedling roots, and lightly press the soil so that the roots and soil are in close contact. The planting depth should be consistent with the soil mark from the nursery period, with the root crown exposed above the ground. Water thoroughly to settle the roots, and cover with rice straw, stalk, green manure or plastic film to keep warm and retain moisture.

4. Post-planting management: seedlings generally take about half a month to survive after field planting. During this half month, water frequently and do not apply additional fertilizer. After survival, check frequently to ensure the soil is moist but not waterlogged, promoting root and new shoot growth. Only after a small number of new shoots have emerged may diluted manure water be applied.

Lemon Tree Young Tree Management

1. Soil management: each winter slack season, combined with shallow plowing and earthing up, dig 1-2 fertilizer holes 40-60 cm long and 60-80 cm deep outward from the canopy drip line, and apply 100 kg/sq m of compost (or barnyard manure), mixing it evenly with the soil. This helps cultivate well-developed absorbing roots in young trees and enhances the tree's ability to absorb nutrients.

2. Fertilizer and water management: young trees are generally fertilized 5-10 times a year, following the principle of frequent light applications. The fertilizer types are mainly quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, combined with phosphate fertilizer, potassium fertilizer and human and livestock manure. For field-planted seedlings, from the beginning of spring shoot germination in March to the autumn shoot emergence period in September, apply decomposed human and livestock manure water at 30% concentration once a month. For one-year-old lemon young trees, usually 80 g of nitrogen, 40 g of phosphorus and 30 g of potassium are applied annually, increasing by about 10 g each year thereafter. For 2-4 year old young trees, the fertilization period is concentrated before each flush of tender shoots emerges. The annual number of fertilizer applications is 5-6 times, with 3-4 foliar sprays during the tender shoot period.

3. Young tree shaping: the trunk of the lemon is set at a height of about 40-50 cm. When the grafted seedling sends out spring shoots, or after the summer shoots mature, pinch off the growing tip at a plump bud on a branch 40 cm above the ground to encourage 4-6 new shoots to emerge at 25-40 cm, forming branches. If shoot emergence is not ideal and few branches form, buds can be removed 1-2 times to encourage new shoots from the main trunk. After the shoots mature, select and keep one strong branch from the upper part as the first main branch, leave it 20-25 cm long, cut back the tip portion, and keep the rest as auxiliary nurturing branches.