Pear Tree Pruning Techniques Tutorial: Detailed Explanation of the Latest Methods

In the past, pear varieties were generally taller in tree form, with thick and tall trunks, and usually only needed the removal of dead branches to maintain a reasonably good tree shape. Nowadays, for the convenience of harvest and management, the varieties being vigorously promoted for planting are all dwarf types with less obvious trunks. Therefore, it is necessary to cultivate a well-fixed tree form that is convenient for management and growth. So below we will talk about how this pruning should be done and what form is suitable to establish.

I. Purpose of Pruning

If the tree form is open and no trunk is established and no branches are retained and pruned, then nutrients cannot be transported to the outer periphery, which is always difficult, the outer periphery bears poor fruit, and the looseness makes the interior hollow, the branches droop low, and the fruit cannot receive good light and drops. Leaves and fruit being too close to the ground makes them prone to receiving excessive humidity, and the interior being closed and shaded makes them prone to diseases. If the trunk has no canopy shade, it will suffer sunscald and lose water, and in severe cases die. In winter, rain and snow pressing down can easily break the branches, causing frostbite to the trunk. Without pruning, the canopy is not attractive and management is inconvenient.

II. Pruning Methods

Pear tree pruning mainly serves shaping and form establishment, and the main pear tree forms are two: the open-center layered form and the multi-main-branch natural form. The two tree forms each have their own advantages and disadvantages; it only depends on which aspect of the advantages the grower values more. However, diseased and pest-infested branches, weak branches, and overly dense branches are pruned the same way in both.

1. Open-Center Layered Form

First determine the trunk; generally the trunk should be about 1 m above the ground, then among the branches sprouting and growing out at 1 m, retain three vigorous side branches, and the three side branches should grow staggered, not in the same direction. Then remove all the sprouting shoots and leaves on the trunk, and on the three side branches respectively continue to retain three to four fruiting mother branches, and thin out all the remaining branches. Finally, on the fruiting mother branches, select and retain 5 to 7 fruiting branches, and after cutting off the remaining weak branches, it is complete. After the side branches, fruiting mother branches, and fruiting branches are selected and retained, all should be pinched to avoid excessive vegetative growth, accumulate nutrients, and promote new branches.

2. Multi-Main-Branch Natural Form

Establish the trunk at half a meter on the tree trunk, but do not make the trunk establishment too obvious; after establishing the trunk, let it grow naturally, then choose all vigorous branches and keep them, and cut off the rest. This forms multiple main branches, and on the main branches only retain the vigorous shoots as fruiting mother branches, and on the mother branches likewise remove the weak fruiting branches; natural pruning like this can be maintained, but the retained shoots should also be pinched. Pruning in this way can establish the form.

The above are the pear pruning techniques and methods, mainly carried out around shaping, but specifically there are also some detailed operation contents such as pruning branches and thinning shoots, pinching to remove buds, and heading back for rejuvenation, carried out together; carry out pear tree pruning according to your own actual situation.