Latest Red-Fleshed Kiwi Fruit Training and Pruning Techniques Tutorial
Red-fleshed kiwi fruit is a variety of kiwi fruit. Unlike ordinary kiwi fruit, its flesh is red. However, its nutritional value is every bit as good as, if not better than, that of kiwi fruit, and it has strong stress resistance and relatively large fruit. There is now a certain amount of planting area for it. When growing red-fleshed kiwi fruit, training and pruning are very important. So today, the editor has brought you the training and pruning techniques for red-fleshed kiwi fruit. Let's take a look below!
1. The first year after planting
One year after the red-fleshed kiwi fruit is planted, insert a bamboo pole beside the plant. Then select the most vigorously growing shoot among the seedlings as the vine, tie the main vine to the trunk, and encourage the main vine to grow upright along the bamboo pole. Tie it about every 30cm to avoid the effects of wind. If the main vine becomes tangled, untangle it promptly. For the new shoots sent out by the red-fleshed kiwi fruit, they can be trained into auxiliary nourishing branches; if they grow strongly, they should also be tied. Then remove the sprouting branches below the graft union. In summer, excessive vegetative growth is very likely to occur, so prune it away promptly. Then in winter, keep about 3 buds on the main vine and remove all excess branches from the base.
2. Pruning in the second year
After the spring of the second year, select a vigorously growing new shoot from the plant's new shoots, tie it to the trunk, and let it grow upright. It should also be tied about every 30cm. When the new shoots on the main vine gradually become thinner and the leaves become smaller, this indicates that growth has declined. At this point, pinch out the growing tips properly by pinching off several nodes from the top of the new shoots, so that the new shoots stop growing for a period of time and nutrient accumulation is increased. Then, when the new shoots grow to about 35cm beyond the trellis surface, guide them to grow toward the other side to encourage the formation of a new main vine.
3. Pruning in the third year
By the third year, the number of new shoots on the trellis surface will increase. At this time, select a vigorously growing strong branch on the main vine as the extension shoot of the main vine, and let it continue extending forward along the wire. When the vines become tangled with each other, pinch out the growing tips promptly. Then prune promptly in winter so that the extended leader of the main vine returns to its respective suitable growth range. Then, on both sides of the main vine, keep vigorously growing branches at intervals of about 22cm and cut them back to plump buds. This lays the foundation for fruiting the following year. Keep an appropriate number of moderately growing branches, then wind the main vine around the wire to prevent the fruit and leaves from being too heavy and causing slippage.
4. Pruning in the fourth year
In the fourth year, a T-shaped support should be used to ensure that, after the new shoots grow beyond the trellis surface, they can form a curtain-like shape. For new shoots trained on a greenhouse trellis, ensure that they can continue extending on the trellis surface. On each main vine, appropriately keep about 4 side branches 50cm long, and within the range of each side branch keep 4 strong fruiting mother branches. If there is sufficient growing space, an appropriate number of moderate branches and well-growing short branches can also be kept. In the fourth year, the training work for red-fleshed kiwi fruit is basically complete, and the canopy gradually takes shape. Then, suitable fruiting mother branches should be appropriately arranged on the main vine to encourage it to enter the full fruiting period as soon as possible.
The above is a brief introduction to the training and pruning techniques for red-fleshed kiwi fruit. To learn more related information, please continue to follow us!