Is the azalea easy to grow? What are the things to watch out for?

Azalea, also known as shan zhizhu, shan shiliu, and yingshanhong. Legend has it that the azalea was dyed red by the blood a bird spat out. It has many varieties and brilliant flower colors, and both its flowers and leaves are beautiful; it is suitable for both ground planting and container growing, and is one of China's ten traditional famous flowers. But is the azalea really easy to grow? And what should be paid attention to during the growing process?

Growing Methods

(1) Environmental conditions: It is best to have both an indoor and an outdoor environment for growing azaleas. The indoor environment is used in winter. The outdoor site is used in summer and autumn, and a mud ground is best; cement ground should be avoided. The site should be spacious, ventilated and shaded, with a shade shed built above, covered with reed blinds or using the shelter of natural tree shade; a light transmission rate of about 30% is appropriate, and exposure to the setting sun must be avoided.

(2) Potting soil requirements: The azalea likes loose, highly permeable, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus, with a pH value of 5.0—6.0. If clay or alkaline soil is used, hardly one in a hundred will survive. This is especially true for summer azaleas and Western azaleas, which must have mountain soil. The mountain soil also needs to be improved, and at present 3 types of prepared potting soil are usually used.

(3) Flower pot selection: For growing azaleas, generally two kinds of pots are chosen: clay pots and purple clay pots. Clay pots have good air and water permeability, and production units all use this kind of pot for cultivation. For finished azaleas, especially those already shaped, when displayed indoors and outdoors, they are generally planted in beautiful and antique purple clay pots; purple clay pots are fine in texture, rich in color and beautiful in shape, and can double their ornamental value.

(4) Improving water quality: For watering azaleas, rainwater is best, followed by river water and pond water. If tap water is used, it is best to store the water for 1—2 days to let the chlorine volatilize before use. When using it, add 0.2% ferrous sulfate, and water once every 7—10 days during the growing season; use it regularly to ensure the soil is acidic.

(5) Fertilizer and water management: The azalea likes shade and moisture, and should not be too dry. More water is especially needed during the flowering period. In winter, the azalea has entered its dormant period and does not need much water, so generally water once every 4—5 days, preferably around noon on a clear, warm day;

(6) Outdoor shading: From before it is moved outdoors until before flowering, it should be exposed to more sunlight; during the flowering period, short periods of shading should be provided at noon, with a light transmission rate of 60%;

(7) Shaping and pruning: The azalea grows relatively slowly, so generally it is allowed to grow naturally, and shaping is done only after flowering, cutting off leggy branches, diseased and weak branches, deformed branches, and damaged branches.

(8) Disease and pest control: For the azalea lace bug (also known as the crowned nettle bug), spray a 1500-fold dilution of 40% dimethoate during the period of damage, once every 7 days, for 3 consecutive times. The main method of controlling the bud leaf roller is by hand-catching and killing; the larvae or pupae can also be sprayed and killed with a 2000-fold dilution of 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate or a 1500-fold dilution of dichlorvos.

Points to Note

(1) The azalea's roots are as fine as hair strands, with very few thick main roots. It fears both dryness and wetness, and especially fears heavy fertilizer. If watered too much, the roots soak in water; if too dry, the branches and leaves shrink and the leaves fall off, posing a great threat to the plant. As for applying heavy fertilizer, it can endanger its life.

(2) After the flowers fade, the remaining flowers must be cut off to avoid seed production consuming nutrients. After new branches sprout, thin the branches appropriately, deciding what to keep or remove according to the plant's growth vigor.

(3) Azaleas are best planted in clay pots, because clay pots absorb water and breathe, which benefits root growth and development and makes the branches and leaves luxuriant.

(4) There are particular requirements for where potted azaleas are placed; generally they should be placed on a southeast-facing balcony, and it should be ventilated, moving them as little as possible. Without ventilation, they are prone to black spot disease and lose leaves in large numbers.

(5) The azalea's light requirements should also be moderate; avoid direct light in summer.

(6) Thin buds and leaves in time, removing part of the flower buds and leaves that have grown too numerous and too dense, so that the air circulates and nutrients are concentrated in the flower buds. After the flower buds form, nutrition should be increased, applying a suitable amount of more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, otherwise the flower buds will turn into leaf buds.

(7) The main reasons for azaleas losing leaves and failing to bloom are: direct light in summer being too strong, freezing damage from severe cold, watering too much, fertilizing too strongly, being kept indoors for too long, being placed in a place with no air circulation or in a dark, damp place, and being exposed to acid rain, so these situations should be avoided during care.

(8) Repotting and changing the soil does not need to be done every year; generally once every 2 to 3 years, damaging the roots as little as possible, and the time should be after the flowers fade or in autumn, and at the same time spray thiophanate to prevent disease.

(9) The main pests of azaleas are red spiders, aphids, and so on, which can be sprayed and killed with fenvalerate and the like, with good results; if they are not dead after three days, spray once more.

(10) The main propagation method for azaleas is cuttings. Around the time of Grain in Ear, choose new branches 5 cm to 10 cm long, cut them off at the branching point, strip off the lower leaves, keep 3 to 4 leaves at the top, insert 1/3 of the branch into the soil, spray with enough water, and cover with plastic film. Strengthen management as usual, and transplant after one year.