How to Grow Phalaenopsis Orchids? A Complete Guide to Home Care Methods
Phalaenopsis (moth orchid) is a plant suitable for indoor cultivation. Phalaenopsis belongs to the monopodial type of orchids, producing only one main stem and one growing point in its lifetime. Seedling propagation mainly uses methods such as tissue culture, aseptic seed propagation and flower stalk bud propagation. How to grow Phalaenopsis at home?
1. Growing medium: The common growing media for Phalaenopsis are mainly sphagnum moss and moss.
2. Temperature: When growing Phalaenopsis at home, temperature must first be guaranteed. Phalaenopsis likes a hot and humid environment. During the growing period, the minimum temperature should be kept above 15°C. The suitable growing temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16-30°C. When temperatures are low in autumn and winter, at the turn of winter and spring, and in winter, attention should be paid to raising the temperature. Generally, in rooms with heating equipment in winter, this temperature is not difficult to reach, but note that the flowers should not be placed directly on the radiator or too close to it. When summer temperatures are on the high side, cooling is needed, and ventilation should be noted. If the temperature is above 32°C, Phalaenopsis usually enters a semi-dormant state, and continuous high temperatures should be avoided. The peak flowering period is around the Spring Festival. Proper cooling can prolong the viewing time. During flowering, the nighttime temperature is best kept between 13-16°C, but not lower than 13°C.
3. Watering: Phalaenopsis originates from primitive forests, where there is more mist and higher temperatures. Phalaenopsis does not have thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients. If the air humidity is insufficient, the leaf surface will wrinkle and become weak and limp. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and cared for in a ventilated, high-humidity environment. The suitable growing air humidity for Phalaenopsis is 60%-80%. During the vigorous elongation period of new roots, water more; during the dormant period after flowering, water less. In spring and autumn, water once a day around 5 p.m. In summer, when the plant grows vigorously, water once each at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. In winter, with weak light and low temperatures, watering once every other week is enough, preferably before 10 a.m. If a cold wave hits, do not water; keep it dry, and resume watering after the cold wave passes. The principle of watering is to water when dry and let it dry when wet. When the surface of the growing medium becomes dry, water thoroughly again. The water temperature should be close to room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, a sprayer can be used to spray directly onto the leaf surface; it is enough for the leaf surface to become moist, but note that during the flowering period, the water mist must not be sprayed onto the flowers. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before use for watering.
4. Light: Although Phalaenopsis prefers shade, the orchid plant still needs to receive some light, especially before and after the flowering period. Proper light can promote flowering in Phalaenopsis and make the flowers more brilliant and long-lasting. Generally, it should be placed in a spot indoors with diffused light, and direct sunlight should be avoided.
Methods and precautions for growing Phalaenopsis at home
1. Flower pots for Phalaenopsis: precautions for clay pots, plastic pots, etc.:
Generally, large-scale production uses clay pots and plastic pots. For home decorative cultivation, besides clay pots and plastic pots, glazed-rim pots and decorative pots are also used. In flower supermarkets and flower shops, large-diameter plastic pots and decorative pots are used for combined pot planting. For hanging basket display in the home, square frames and snake wood boards can also be used. For all container materials such as clay pots, glazed-rim pots, decorative pots and snake wood boards, they must be soaked thoroughly in water before use for planting.
2. Growing medium for Phalaenopsis: precautions for loose, water-permeable bark chunks, sphagnum moss, etc.:
The growing medium for Phalaenopsis must have the characteristics of being loose, ventilated, well water-permeable and rot-resistant. At present, the most commonly used growing media include bark chunks (or bark silk), sphagnum moss, coconut shell chunks, vermiculite, tree fern chunks, etc. Japan commonly uses a mixed medium of sphagnum moss and bark silk. Taiwan, China widely uses artificial medium produced from textile scraps. The United States uses a mixed medium of tree fern chunks, sphagnum moss and sand. Thailand mostly uses coconut shells.
3. Temperature precautions for growing Phalaenopsis at home: likes warmth
When cultivating Phalaenopsis at home, the purchased orchid plant must be a flowering plant and already a full plant. The minimum room temperature requirement is above 15°C, and ventilation should be good. If the indoor temperature exceeds 20°C, the orchid plant can be misted to cool it down or temporarily moved to a cooler room, in order to prolong the flowering viewing period. In spring, when the morning temperature exceeds 15°C in May, the orchid plant can be moved outdoors for care. In autumn, before the morning temperature drops to 15°C in September, move the orchid plant back indoors.
4. Light precautions for growing Phalaenopsis at home: likes semi-shade
Phalaenopsis has developed a habit of liking semi-shade in its natural environment. When cultivating at home, use shade nets or bamboo blinds for shading. This can be adjusted by the shading time. In summer, when sunlight and temperatures are high, the shading time should be longer, about 70% shading. In winter, when sunlight is weak and temperatures are low, provide appropriate shading at noon. In spring and autumn, control the shading time according to weather changes. From evening to before sunrise, no shading is needed, which is beneficial for ventilation and air flow.
In short, when cultivating Phalaenopsis, strong direct light or exposure must be avoided, as the leaves are easily scorched (recommended reading below: How to grow Phalaenopsis well). Similarly, fixed shading for a long time causes the light to be too weak, making the orchid plant grow weak, the leaves tender, the flower stem elongate, and the flower color lack luster and not bright, and it is also more prone to disease. For this reason, in winter during long periods of rain and snow, when sunlight is insufficient, artificial light should be added as a supplement.
5. Watering precautions for growing Phalaenopsis at home: likes moisture, avoid waterlogging
Phalaenopsis likes moisture but avoids waterlogging. Watering must be determined according to the season, temperature conditions, the growing medium used and the growth and development of the orchid plant. Generally speaking, from June to September, when temperatures are slightly higher, Phalaenopsis is in a vigorous growth period and can be watered a bit more, choosing a sunny morning to water, and it is enough for the growing medium to be moist. When temperatures are on the low side in winter and spring, water less, keep the roots slightly dry, and water again when the medium in the pot begins to dry. If the temperature is below 15°C, watering must be strictly controlled. However, in winter during the flower bud growth period, as long as the temperature is not lower than 18°C, water in time, with the bottom medium being moist as the standard, and the pot must never be allowed to become too wet.
Among potted media, sphagnum moss and bark silk generally absorb a relatively large amount of water, so the watering interval can be longer. Bark chunks, vermiculite and the like have good drainage, so the watering interval should be shorter.
During the growing period of Phalaenopsis, especially in the hot and dry seasons of summer and autumn, more misting can be done, but note not to let water accumulate in the core of the orchid leaves, and especially in winter at night, spraying water onto the leaves is prohibited.
6. Other precautions for growing Phalaenopsis at home:
① Air humidity precautions: summer humidity is 80%-90%
Phalaenopsis likes a high-humidity environment. According to the seasonal temperature and weather conditions, the air humidity in spring and autumn is 70%-80%, in summer 80%-90%, and in winter 60%-70%. When the weather is dry and the air humidity is low, it can be adjusted by sprinkling water on the ground and surfaces and misting the orchid plant. When the air humidity is too high, ventilation should be strengthened for adjustment. If the temperature is below 18°C, the air humidity should be reduced, otherwise low temperature and high humidity can easily cause disease. In addition, during the cultivation of Phalaenopsis, it is especially afraid of dry wind, and the leaf surface is prone to water loss, which is extremely unfavorable to the growth of the orchid plant.
② Fertilization precautions: needs more fertilizer, apply thin fertilizer frequently
Because Phalaenopsis grows fast and has a long growth period, it needs slightly more fertilizer than other tropical orchids, but the principle of applying thin fertilizer frequently should still be adopted. In late May, just after repotting, it is in the root recovery period, so no fertilization is needed.
From June to September is the growth period of new roots and new leaves for the orchid plant. Fertilize once a week, using “Hyponex” liquid fertilizer diluted 2000 times and sprayed on the leaf surface and the potting medium. During the high-temperature period in summer, fertilization can be appropriately paused 2-3 times.
After October, the growth of the orchid plant slows down, so reduce fertilization to avoid excessive growth of the orchid plant, which would affect flower bud formation and prevent flowering.
In winter and during the flowering period, stop fertilization. If fertilization continues, it will cause root rot.
③ Precautions for setting up supports: tying the flower stem must be done in stages
Phalaenopsis has long inflorescences and many large flowers, so when potted, supports need to be set up to prevent the flower stem from tipping over or breaking, which would affect the floral appearance. Therefore, after the flower stem emerges, first set up temporary support in the pot to prevent the flower stem from lodging.
When tying, it must be noted that the flower stem cannot be fixed all at once; it should be done gradually in several steps to avoid breaking the flower stem. After the flower buds grow larger, set up formal supports specially designed for Phalaenopsis, bend the support into a bow shape, and fix the flower stem against the support at multiple points. Phalaenopsis has many large flowers, and after the flower stem emerges, supports need to be set up to prevent the flower stem from lodging.
④ Repotting precautions: repot every year
The growing medium for Phalaenopsis consists of easily rotting materials such as sphagnum moss, bark silk and coconut shells, so it must be repotted every year. The best time for repotting is late spring and early summer, around late May when temperatures are relatively high. At this time, the flowering period has just ended and new roots begin to grow.
When repotting, a knife can be used to gently rotate along the inner wall of the pot to detach the roots from the inner wall, or the orchid pot can be broken to take it out directly. For the removed root ball, use your fingers to dig out the old medium at the lower part, trim the root system, cut off dried and aged old roots, roots with rust spots, and broken roots, place the soaked sphagnum moss and fern roots (or bark silk) at the bottom of the root system, then wrap the surroundings of the root system with wet sphagnum moss, but the root system should be spread out evenly and not have multiple roots tied together, then plant it into the pot. Note that the sphagnum moss should not be wrapped too tightly, otherwise it can easily cause root rot from moisture.
④ Propagation precautions: division
Phalaenopsis has a very developed root system. When most of the roots of a potted Phalaenopsis grow outside the pot, and axillary buds on the flower stalk develop into young plants and grow new roots, they can be cut off for division planting. Division is best done after the flowers have completely withered. If division is done in the hot summer season, the wounds of the orchid plant are prone to rot. If division is done in winter, root regeneration and recovery are slower due to low temperatures. During the operation, remove the naturally dried yellow leaves at the base and cut off shriveled and damaged roots.