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What are the benefits of Paris polyphylla and how should it be grown

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Paris polyphylla is a plant of the genus Paris in the family Liliaceae. Also known as Zaoxiu, Chixiu, Chongtai root, Zhengxiu, Caoheche, Chongtai grass, Baigansui, Jinxian Chonglou, Chonglou, Jiudaogu, Yuanyangchong, Zhihuatou, Luosiqi, Hailuoqi, Dengtaiqi, Baiheche, Luotuo Sanqi, Tu Sanqi, and also known as Qiyelian. Its characteristic is that a single flower emerges from a whorl of leaves, and the flower's shape closely resembles its leaves. It can be divided into two parts, the outer whorl flower and the inner whorl flower. The outer whorl flower is very similar to the leaves, with about 6 pieces, while the inner whorl flower has about 8 pieces. The phyllotaxis of Paris polyphylla is whorled, and the number of leaves varies among individuals, ranging from 4 to 14 pieces; "seven leaves" is just a name. The flower structure is special: the leaf center opens into a whorl and produces a flower, the calyx is green, and the petals are thin and ribbon-like. In early Taiwan, China, it was used to treat snake venom and sores, swellings and toxicosis and other symptoms. <p style="text-align: center;"></p> <p style="text-indent:2em;"><span style="color:#000000"><strong>[Benefits]</strong></span>Resists toxins and cancer, clears heat and detoxifies, reduces swelling and relieves pain, clears heat and calms fright, relieves cough and calms asthma.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;"><strong>[Indications]</strong>Treats carbuncles and swellings, chronic cough from pulmonary tuberculosis, traumatic injuries, snake and insect bites, lymphatic tuberculosis, osteomyelitis and other conditions; it is one of the main ingredients of Yunnan Baiyao.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;"><strong>[Planting]</strong>Mainly by seed propagation, but rhizome planting can also be used.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">1. Seed planting.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">Direct sowing is best, but to save seeds and achieve dense planting and high yield, seedling raising and transplanting can be used.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">(1) Direct sowing. After thorough rain in mid-to-late May, on the prepared seedbed surface, make small shallow holes 3&mdash;5 cm deep with a row spacing of 30&mdash;35 cm and a plant spacing of 20&mdash;25 cm; make 4 rows on a narrow bed 130 cm wide and 5 rows on a wide bed 150 cm wide. Before sowing, soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours, mix with plant ash and sow; place 2&mdash;3 seeds per hole, then cover with 2&mdash;3 cm of fertilizer soil made of half fine manure and half fine soil. If the soil is dry, water promptly; seedlings sprout and emerge in 7&mdash;10 days.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">(2) Seedling raising and transplanting. This is an important measure for saving seeds and catching the right season. In early April, choose a seedbed in dry land with a water source or in vegetable garden land. Before digging the soil, it is best to use 40% quintozene at 5&mdash;10 grams per square meter mixed with fine soil and broadcast it to disinfect the soil, then repeatedly dig and turn the surface soil. After leveling and finely breaking up the bed surface, open sowing furrows about 5 cm deep on the bed surface at a row spacing of 15 cm, sow in the furrows at a plant spacing of 5 cm, then cover with 3 cm of soil, cover with 2 cm of fine manure, water thoroughly and cover with plastic film; seedlings can emerge in 5&mdash;7 days. One month after raising seedlings, transplant the small seedlings into the field according to the direct sowing specifications.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"></p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">2. Rhizome planting.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">In autumn and winter, dig up robust rhizomes free of pests and diseases and store them in sand in a cool, dry place. Take them out in early-to-mid April of the following year, cut them into small sections according to the characteristics of the remaining bud-bearing stems and bud scars that have sprouting ability, ensuring each section has 1 bud scar. After cutting, dry them appropriately and mix with plant ash, then plant them in rows in the seedbed like sowing, and cover with film. After 15&mdash;20 days, when they have rooted and sprouted, transplant them into the field in mid-to-late May according to the direct sowing specifications. In mid-to-late May, thin the direct-sown field and at the same time check the holes and fill gaps. Before thinning, water first, use a wooden stick to pry out the seedlings, and when filling gaps water to settle the roots, making full use of small seedlings to ensure a full stand and sufficient density. From late May to early June, there is a lot of heavy rain, the soil easily becomes compacted, so drain promptly, prevent waterlogging, cultivate frequently, loosen the soil shallowly, and remove weeds at all times.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">3. Shading</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">Paris polyphylla likes shade and fears strong light; throughout the whole growth period, a light transmittance of 40%&mdash;50% is best. Therefore, after emergence and transplanting, shading measures must be taken. Where conditions permit, it is best to use shade netting; where conditions do not permit, branch insertion for shading can be used, and shading by interplanting tall crops such as corn between rows can also be considered, but attention must be paid to density and the method of interplanting and intercropping.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"></p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">4. Earthing up</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">Paris polyphylla usually has the growth pattern that when it flowers above, the tuber below expands; generally it expands fastest from mid-to-late June to August. A heavy topdressing must be applied in early June, using 2000&mdash;3000 kg of decomposed farmyard manure per mu, plus 20&mdash;30 kg of superphosphate, applied to the roots and then combined with clearing the furrows for heavy earthing up; the soil earthed up must be loose, keeping the bed surface and furrow bottom free of standing water.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">5. Pest and disease control</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">No insect pests have yet been found on Paris polyphylla, which is related to its mild toxicity. However, in low-temperature and rainy or high-temperature and high-humidity weather, it is relatively prone to disease, and early prevention and control are required.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">1. Damping-off: This disease affects the seedling stage and is severe when there is low temperature and much rain from April to May. In the early stage of the disease, yellow-brown water-soaked lesions appear at the base of the seedling stem and spread around the base, causing the seedlings to wither, and in severe cases patches die and fall over.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">Control method: Strengthen field management, disinfect the soil, remove diseased seedlings after onset, disinfect the seedbed with chemicals, and spray zineb solution.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">2. Sclerotinia disease: This disease is serious, occurring in May each year when there is much rain and high humidity, damaging the base; first a soft rot appears, then white filamentous matter appears on the diseased part, after which dark brown granular sclerotia of the pathogen appear around the diseased part, and finally the whole plant dies and falls over.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">Control methods:</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">①. Clear the furrows and drain promptly to reduce field humidity.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">②. Remove diseased plants promptly and spread lime at the center of infection.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">③. Spray thiophanate or wenkuli 2–3 times consecutively; in severe cases, spray with chlorothalonil.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">3. Black spot: The disease starts from the leaf tip or leaf base and produces round or nearly round lesions; sometimes the disease spreads to the flower axis, forming leaf blight and stem blight.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">Control measures:</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">①Pay attention to drainage and reducing moisture, lower air humidity, and reduce disease occurrence;</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">②In the early stage of the disease, spray 5% junxiaoqing aqueous solution or 50% thiophanate-methyl suspension concentrate.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"></p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">4. Stem rot: This disease mostly occurs during the seedbed stage and is more serious during the field stage in high-temperature and rainy conditions. First, yellow-brown lesions appear at the stem base; after the lesions expand, the leaf tips lose water and droop, and in severe cases the stem base becomes wet and rotted and the seedlings fall over.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">Control measures:</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">①Rotate with gramineous crops for more than 3 years;</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">②Before transplanting, spray the seedbed with 50% carbendazim wettable powder as a &ldquo;send-off medicine&rdquo;;</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">③Thin out diseased seedlings;</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">④In the early stage of disease in the field, drench the holes with 95% dexon wettable powder, once every 10 days, for 2&mdash;3 consecutive drenchings.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">5. Scarab beetles: The adults damage leaves, and the larvae (white grubs) bite and eat the rhizomes, affecting the growth of Paris polyphylla.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">Control measures:</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">At night, use torches to lure and kill adults, and place fresh vegetable leaves sprayed with trichlorfon on the bed surface to lure and kill larvae.</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">Harvesting and processing:</p> <p style="text-indent:2em;">Tubers grown from Paris polyphylla seeds are harvested for medicinal use after 5 years, and tubers grown from tubers are harvested for medicinal use after 3 years. They can be harvested around the time the plants fall over in autumn, that is, from November&mdash;December to before March of the following year. Most Paris polyphylla tubers grow in the surface soil layer and are easy to dig, but care must be taken to keep the tubers intact. First cut off the stems and leaves, then dig from the side with a hoe, dig out the tubers, shake off the soil, scrub clean with clean water, slice while fresh at a thickness of 2&mdash;3 mm, and sun-dry. On cloudy days, they can be dried over a low fire at about 30°C.</p>

Paris polyphylla is a plant of the genus Paris in the family Liliaceae. Its other names include Zaoxiu, Chixiu, Chongtai root, Zhengxiu, Caoheche, Chongtai grass, Baigansui, Jinxian Chonglou, Chonglou, Jiudaogu, Yuanyang insect, Zhihuatou, Luosiqi, Hailuoqi, Dengtaiqi, Baiheche, Luotuo Sanqi, Tu Sanqi, and it is also known as Qiyelian. Its distinguishing feature is a single flower emerging from a whorl of leaves, with the flower shaped remarkably like its leaves. It can be divided into two parts, the outer whorl flowers and the inner whorl flowers. The outer whorl flowers closely resemble the leaves, numbering about 6, while the inner whorl flowers number about 8. The leaf arrangement of Paris polyphylla is whorled, and the number of leaves varies between individuals, ranging from 4 to 14; "seven leaves" is merely a name. The flower structure is special: the leaf center opens into a whorl-like flower, the calyx is green, and the petals are slender and ribbon-like. In early Taiwan, China it was used to treat snake venom and symptoms such as sores and swellings.

[Efficacy] Antitumor and detoxifying, clearing heat and detoxifying, reducing swelling and relieving pain, clearing heat and calming fright, relieving cough and calming asthma.

[Indications] Treats carbuncles and swellings, chronic cough from pulmonary tuberculosis, traumatic injuries, snake and insect bites, lymphatic tuberculosis, osteomyelitis and other conditions. It is one of the main ingredients of Yunnan Baiyao.

[Planting] Mainly propagated by seed, but rhizome planting can also be used.

1. Seed planting.

Direct sowing is best, but to save seeds and achieve high yields through close planting, seedling raising and transplanting can be used.

(1) Direct sowing. In mid to late May, after thorough rain, on the prepared seedbed surface, make small shallow holes 3—5 cm deep at a row spacing of 30—35 cm and a plant spacing of 20—25 cm. Make 4 rows on a narrow bed of 130 cm and 5 rows on a wide bed of 150 cm. Before sowing, soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours, mix with plant ash, and sow 2—3 seeds per hole. After sowing, cover with 2—3 cm of fertilizer soil made of half fine manure and half fine soil. Water promptly if the soil is dry. Seedlings emerge in 7—10 days.

(2) Seedling raising and transplanting. This is an important measure for saving seeds and catching the right season. In early April, select a seedbed in dry land with a water source or in vegetable garden plots. Before digging the soil, it is best to use 40% quintozene at 5—10 grams per square meter mixed with fine soil and broadcast to disinfect the soil. Then repeatedly dig and turn the topsoil, level and finely prepare the bed surface, open sowing furrows about 5 cm deep at a row spacing of 15 cm on the bed surface, sow in the furrows at a plant spacing of 5 cm, then cover with 3 cm of soil and 2 cm of fine manure, water thoroughly and cover with plastic film. Seedlings emerge in 5—7 days. One month after seedling raising, transplant the young seedlings to the field according to the direct sowing specifications.

2. Rhizome planting.

In autumn and winter, dig up robust rhizomes free of pests and diseases and store them in sand in a cool, dry place. In early to mid April of the following year, take them out and cut them into small sections according to the characteristics of sprout-bearing residual stems and bud scars, ensuring each section has 1 bud scar. After cutting, dry them appropriately and mix with plant ash. Plant them in rows in the seedbed as when sowing, and cover with plastic film. After 15—20 days, when roots and sprouts have grown, transplant to the field in mid to late May according to the direct sowing specifications. In mid to late May, thin the direct-sown plots, and at the same time check the holes and fill gaps. Before thinning, water first, pry out the seedlings with a wooden stick, and water with root-setting water when replanting, making full use of small seedlings to ensure a full stand and sufficient density. From late May to early June, there is a lot of heavy rain, and the soil tends to harden, so drain promptly, prevent waterlogging, cultivate frequently, loosen the soil shallowly, and remove weeds at all times.

3. Shading

Paris polyphylla prefers shade and fears strong light. Throughout the entire growth period, a light transmittance of 40%—50% is best. Therefore, after emergence and transplanting, shading measures must be taken. Where conditions permit, shade netting is best; where conditions do not permit, inserting branches for shade can be used, and tall crops such as corn can also be intercropped between rows for shade, but attention must be paid to density and the method of intercropping and interplanting.

4. Earthing up

Paris polyphylla generally follows a growth pattern in which the tuber expands below while flowering above, and expansion is usually fastest from mid to late June to August. In early June, a heavy topdressing must be applied, using 2000—3000 kg of decomposed farmyard manure per mu, plus 20—30 kg of superphosphate, applied to the roots and then combined with clearing the furrows and heavy earthing up. The soil used for earthing up must be loose, keeping the bed surface and furrow bottom free of standing water.

5. Pest and disease control

No insect pests have yet been found on Paris polyphylla, which is related to its mild toxicity. However, in low-temperature rainy weather or high-temperature high-humidity weather, it is more prone to disease and must be controlled early.

1. Damping-off: This disease occurs at the seedling stage and is severe during low-temperature rainy periods in April to May. In the early stage of the disease, yellow-brown water-soaked lesions appear at the base of the seedling stem and spread around the base, causing the seedlings to wilt, and in severe cases entire patches wither and fall.

Control methods: Strengthen field management, disinfect the soil, remove diseased seedlings after onset, disinfect the seedbed with chemicals, and spray zineb solution.

2. Sclerotinia disease: This disease is severe, occurring in May each year when there is much rain and high humidity. It damages the base, first appearing as soft rot, then white filamentous matter appears on the diseased part, after which dark brown granular sclerotia of the pathogen appear around the diseased part, and finally the whole plant withers and falls.

Control methods:

①. Clear the furrows and drain promptly to reduce field humidity.

②. Remove diseased plants promptly and spread lime at the center of infection.

③. Spray with the pesticides thiophanate or wenkulili 2 to 3 times in succession, and in severe cases spray with chlorothalonil.

3. Black spot: The disease starts from the leaf tip or leaf base, producing round or nearly round lesions, and sometimes spreads to the flower axis, causing leaf blight and stem blight.

Control measures:

① Pay attention to drainage and moisture removal, reduce air humidity, and lessen disease occurrence;

② In the early stage of disease, spray 5% junduqing aqueous solution or 50% thiophanate-methyl suspension concentrate.

4. Stem rot: This disease mostly occurs at the seedbed stage, and is more severe in the field stage during high-temperature rainy periods. First, yellow-brown lesions appear at the stem base. After the lesions expand, the leaf tips lose water and droop, and in severe cases the stem base becomes wet and rotted and the seedlings fall.

Control measures:

① Rotate with gramineous crops for more than 3 years;

② Spray the seedbed with 50% carbendazim wettable powder before transplanting as a “send-off medicine”;

③ Thin out diseased seedlings;

④ In the early stage of disease in the field, drench the holes with 95% dexon wettable powder, once every 10 days, for 2—3 times in succession.

5. Scarab beetles: The adults damage leaves, and the larvae (white grubs) bite and feed on rhizomes, affecting the growth of Paris polyphylla.

Control measures:

At night, use torches to attract and kill adults, and place fresh vegetable leaves sprayed with trichlorfon on the bed surface to attract and kill larvae.

Harvesting and processing:

Tubers grown from Paris polyphylla seeds are harvested after 5 years for medicinal use, and tubers grown from tubers are harvested after 3 years for medicinal use. They can be harvested in autumn before or after the stems and leaves wither, that is, from November—December to before March of the following year. Paris polyphylla tubers mostly grow in the topsoil and are easy to dig, but care must be taken to keep the tubers intact. First cut off the stems and leaves, then dig from the side with a hoe, dig out the tubers, shake off the soil, scrub clean with clean water, slice while fresh at a thickness of 2—3 mm, and sun-dry. On cloudy days, they can be dried over a low fire at about 30°C.

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