What should be noted when growing Podocarpus macrophyllus, and how do you shape and set its form?

Podocarpus macrophyllus is an evergreen coniferous tree, reaching up to 20 m tall, distributed across many provinces and regions of China; wild trees are very few, and it is mainly cultivated in gardens as an ornamental tree. So, what should be noted when growing Podocarpus macrophyllus? How do you shape and set its form?

1. What needs to be noted when growing Podocarpus macrophyllus?

Podocarpus macrophyllus likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded environment. Its cold tolerance is relatively weak. In North China it can only be grown indoors as a potted plant. It grows well by the seaside. Podocarpus macrophyllus has strong resistance to a variety of toxic gases. The soil should preferably be fertile, well-drained sandy loam.

For Podocarpus macrophyllus potting soil, mix 2 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold and 2 parts coarse sand. Every 2 years in spring, repot Podocarpus macrophyllus and change the soil once, and at the same time carry out appropriate pruning, cutting off dead branches, damaged branches and diseased leaves to keep the plant shape neat and well-proportioned. During the peak growing season, fertilize Podocarpus macrophyllus 3-4 times a month; in summer and autumn, no additional fertilizing is needed, to prevent excessive spindly growth of branches and leaves that would reduce cold resistance. For watering Podocarpus macrophyllus, follow the principle of alternating dry and wet; do not water too much. In summer, spray water on the leaves once each morning and evening to increase air humidity, and also provide appropriate shade to prevent strong sunlight exposure. In winter, Podocarpus macrophyllus can be moved indoors, with the temperature required to be between 1-10°C; it should not be too high, otherwise it is unfavorable for growth the following year.

2. How do you shape and set the form of Podocarpus macrophyllus?

The geometric shaping of Podocarpus macrophyllus is relatively simple; you only need to prune according to the design drawn in advance. For example, when pruning a three-tiered spherical shape, first choose a sapling with an obvious trunk and relatively good upright growth. If the pruning design is a three-tiered spherical shape with a total height of 2 m, then the lower tier is about 50 cm tall, the middle tier is about 40 cm tall, and the top tier is 30 cm tall; all branches on the trunk must be cut away in the 45 cm between the first and second tiers and in the 35 cm between the second and third tiers, and then the three spheres are pruned. It is best for the three spheres, upper, middle and lower, to gradually increase in size, so as to achieve harmonious proportions and better ornamental value. Generally, it is suitable to prune when new shoots have grown 20 to 30 cm, and multiple prunings are needed to make each tier's sphere round, full and compact.

Bonsai-style shaping is much more complex, because the natural shape of each plant differs, and it must be done according to the different materials and their tendencies. A brief overview follows. Podocarpus macrophyllus is an evergreen tree and takes shape slowly, so the method of wire training and bending is generally used to help it take shape quickly.

First prepare several aluminum wires of various specifications, select a Podocarpus macrophyllus whose trunk has slight curvature, cut off weak small branches, bar branches, some whorled branches and branches on the lower one third of the trunk, and keep the thick, strong side branch above the upper one third of the trunk as the first main branch. Wrap the aluminum wire from the trunk to the first main branch, winding at 45 degrees to the end, then bend the first main branch into an S shape and set it at an angle of less than 90 degrees to the trunk; use thin aluminum wire to bind the small branches so they lie in the same plane as the first main branch, then prune the whole into an oval shape. Afterward, bind gradually upward in the same way; generally the main outgoing branches should be on the left and right of the trunk, with a small number of small side branches in front and back to slightly conceal it. Usually the first main branch is the thickest and longest, gradually becoming thinner and shorter toward the top, then the crown is finished in a bun shape, with the whole forming a triangular arrangement. Once new shoots grow to 10 cm, they need to be pruned flat. Depending on growth conditions, generally after half a year to a year the aluminum wire needs to be removed and rebound, to prevent it from embedding in the branches and causing damage; in three years it can take shape.