Grafting Time and Methods for the Epiphytic Succulent Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), an epiphytic succulent in the Cactaceae family, is commonly cultivated in parks and flower nurseries across China. As an ornamental plant, it is often grafted onto dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus) or other rootstocks to obtain vigorous, lush plants. So when is the best time to graft Christmas cactus? What grafting methods are there?
When is the best time to graft Christmas cactus?
Christmas cactus can be grafted in all four seasons. Temperatures of 20-30 degrees are best, that is, from the end of May to mid-July, and from early September to mid-October, when the survival rate reaches over 90%.
Grafting Methods for Christmas Cactus
1. Rootstock Selection and Treatment
For the Christmas cactus rootstock, you can use cactus, Hylocereus undatus, and others. Cut a long, robust branch more than 10 cm long from the mother plant, leave it in the sun to dry for 3-4 days, and after the cut surface has dried, insert it into soil to encourage sprouting. Once roots have formed, it can be potted up and used as grafting material.
2. Cutting the Scion
Choose a green, robust Christmas cactus free of pests and diseases, and cut off the stem segment at the top as the scion. Use a knife to pare away the lower 1/3 of the stem segment until the white woody part is exposed, and finally shape the bottom into a wedge. When cutting, use the knife decisively and do not cut repeatedly.
3. Grafting Method
At the top of the rootstock, cut a vertical slot 2 cm deep and the same width as the scion. Pare the lower end of the stem segment into a 1.5 cm duck-tongue-shaped cut surface, and insert it into the slot in the rootstock. Push it in firmly so it does not slip out.
4. Aftercare Following Grafting
After grafting, place it indoors in a cool, ventilated spot, avoiding direct sun exposure. Be careful to keep it out of rain and prevent waterlogging, to prevent water accumulating in the pot and causing rot. At the same time, control watering and keep the potting soil moist. Fertilizing must be accurate; do not fertilize before the graft has taken, and after it has taken, just a small amount of low-concentration, rotted fertilizer is enough. When fertilizing, do not pour it directly onto the plant, to avoid stem rot. To improve the survival rate, you can cover the Christmas cactus with a large plastic bag after grafting to increase humidity and promote sprouting.
5. Pest and Disease Control
Christmas cactus often suffers from anthracnose, rot, and leaf blight damaging the leaf-like stems, especially under high temperature and high humidity, when the disease is severe. Seriously affected plants should be pulled up and burned in a centralized manner. In the early stage of disease, use a 50% carbendazim wettable powder 500-fold solution, spraying once every 10-15d, for a total of 3 sprays. When scale insects are severe, the surface of the leaf-like stems is covered with white scales, weakening plant growth, and the affected parts turn yellowish-white. If the affected plant is mild, it can be scraped off with a bamboo strip; when severe, spray with a 25% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate 800-fold solution to kill them. When red spider mite damage occurs, spray a 1000-1500-fold omethoate solution for control.
Plant Culture
The Christmas cactus gets its name because the joints connecting its segments resemble a crab's claws. In Western countries that follow Christianity, because it blooms right at “Christmas”, it is also called the “Christmas cactus”.
The flower meaning of the Christmas cactus: good fortune arriving, and turning one's luck around.