How Long Do Succulent Seeds Take to Germinate? A Detailed Guide to Sowing Time and Growing Methods

Currently, most people like to grow some flowers and plants at home to improve the quality of their environment. And the succulent, known as “the cutest plant in history”, has become a popular choice for home growing. So, how long do succulent seeds take to germinate? When is the right time to sow? How do you grow them?

How long do succulent seeds take to germinate?

Succulent seeds generally germinate in 5-15 days. They should be placed in a warm environment with light.

When is the right time to sow succulents?

Actually, when to sow succulent plants cannot be determined simply by month or season, because our country is vast, the climate varies greatly between north and south, and the sowing environment is subject to a great deal of human intervention. Generally, the sowing time should be decided according to the local climate and temperature.

Many flower lovers rush to sow as soon as they buy succulent plant seeds, and give up if the seeds do not sprout for a month after being scattered, without considering the sowing temperature at all. Some sow Crassulaceae seeds at over 30 degrees, while others keep sowing Crassulaceae seeds even at 15°C. Sowing when the temperature is unsuitable often results in a low germination rate or no germination at all.

Life has its own way, and this is very easy to understand. If we insist on sowing Crassulaceae in the scorching heat or severe cold, the seeds naturally will not cooperate. We should choose the right seeds to sow in the right season and at the right temperature, following the laws of nature. For example, in the hot summer, if your hands are itching to do something, you can absolutely sow cactus seeds. In the long, severe winter, northern homes have heating, so Conophytum and Lithops are both good choices.

You can refer to these temperatures when choosing succulent plant seeds: Crassulaceae seeds 20°C; Lithops seeds 15°C~20°C; Conophytum 15°C; Cactaceae above 30°C. The temperature needs to be sustained; do not sow when the temperature changes drastically. Temperature is not an absolute value, but an average reference value for the day. It is not that seeds definitely will not sprout if the temperature is a bit higher or lower, but this is the optimal germination temperature recognized after everyone's practice, and is provided here for your reference only.

How do you grow succulents?

1. Growing medium: The soil should be loose, breathable, and well-draining, but with a certain water-holding capacity, and neutral or slightly acidic. For highland ball cacti (Aztekium, Obregonia, Ferocactus) and Ariocarpus, a little more rice-hull ash and small-grained weathered rock can be added. Tall columnar species can be mixed with large-grained quartz sand to stabilize the plants.

2. Transplanting and planting: This should generally be done during the recovery period just after the plant's dormancy ends. The roots should be trimmed before planting. After trimming the roots, let them dry for a few days, then plant them in moist growing medium. After planting, provide appropriate shade and do not rush to water; do not fertilize within one month.

3. Regulation of temperature and light: Cacti and succulents generally prefer warmth and a large temperature difference between day and night. Except for epiphytic types of cacti and Haworthia species, the light should be sufficient but soft. For this reason, except for a few flat-stemmed and tall columnar species and certain Agave plants, they should generally be cultivated in a greenhouse year-round.

Epiphytic types should be shaded except in winter; in summer, combined with cooling, the shading level should be 50% to 70%. Most terrestrial types of cacti grow most vigorously under conditions of 28°C to 35°C during the day and 10°C to 15°C at night. For succulents that grow in summer, the temperature can basically be regulated by referring to terrestrial types of cacti. Their light requirements are relatively lower, and some species with enlarged stem bases are not cold-hardy, so a relatively high temperature should be maintained in winter. For succulents that grow in winter, during the summer dormancy period they need ventilation and cooling to stay cool, and in winter they require ample sunlight, with the minimum temperature maintained above 7°C.

4. Watering and fertilizing: Watering should be done according to their growth state. Whether they are winter-dormant or summer-dormant types, watering into the pot should be stopped during the dormancy period. However, summer-dormant types must have water set out in walkways and other places to evaporate in order to maintain a certain air humidity. For plants in the vigorous growth period, their water needs should be fully met. Seedlings should be watered more, and large balls less (referring to frequency); terrestrial types should be watered less, epiphytic types more; during the bud and flowering period, water more, and after the flowers fade and fruit drops, water less; those with many thin leaves should be watered more, and those with thick few leaves less.

Fertilizing should be done during the vigorous growth period and the bud period. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed. When applying chemical fertilizer, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be 5:15:10 or 5:10:10, and a small amount of trace elements should be mixed in. Fertilizing should be dilute rather than concentrated, and can be applied several more times when needed. Plants with damaged roots, poor growth, or wounds on stems and leaves must not be fertilized.

5. Pest and disease control: Pest and disease control should mainly focus on prevention. First, the environment must be clean. Strict checks must be made on introduced plants, and they should only be placed in the greenhouse once it is confirmed that there are no pests or diseases. Spraying pesticide centrally in the greenhouse during the three periods of early winter, early spring, and before the plum rain season has twice the result with half the effort. In addition, disinfecting the growing medium has a very good preventive effect. The commonly used agents mainly fall into two categories: fungicides for preventing and treating diseases (such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, zineb, etc.) and insecticides (such as omethoate, dicofol, malathion, fenvalerate, etc.), which can be applied according to the symptoms.

The concentration of the agents must be strictly controlled according to the instructions, especially insecticides; if the concentration is slightly too strong, pesticide damage will occur, and Obregonia denegrii and some Euphorbiaceae succulents are especially sensitive to this. Spraying must be done several times in a row to be effective (with a 2-day interval in between). After using the same chemical twice, switch to another one; long-term use of a single pesticide easily leads to resistance.