The Loquat, "Emperor of Fruits": How Many Times a Year It Flowers and Fruits, and Key Planting Points
Loquat, also known as "golden ball," is a fairly common economic crop in our country. It has the fine reputation of being the “emperor of fruits,” and is quite popular for its effects such as beautifying the skin and nourishing the lungs to relieve cough. So how many times a year does the loquat bloom? How many times does it bear fruit? How should it be planted so it will bloom and bear fruit?
Loquat trees generally bloom in the current year and bear fruit the following year. They bloom once a year, usually from October to December, and bear fruit once a year, in May—June of the second year. However, a loquat tree requires three years from sowing, transplanting, grafting and field planting, then another four years to bear fruit, with 10~40 years being the peak fruiting period. Grafted seedlings bloom and bear fruit more easily than seedling-grown ones. If grown from seed, it will take a long time, at least more than 5 years; grafted seedlings generally also need more than 3 years to bloom and bear fruit.
Planting methods:
1. Temperature
Loquat originates from the subtropics and requires relatively high temperatures. It can grow normally where the annual average temperature is above 12°C, but for economic cultivation the annual average temperature should be 15~17°C, with no severe cold weather. The loquat flowering period is in late winter and early spring, and low temperatures in winter and spring will affect its blooming and fruiting. At a temperature of -6°C, freezing damage occurs to flowering, and at -3°C to young fruit; pollen begins to germinate above 10°C, and pollen germination is most suitable at around 20°C. However, when the air temperature or soil temperature reaches above 30°C, the growth of branches, leaves and roots becomes sluggish and poor, and if the fruit encounters high temperatures of 35°C in the 7~15 days before harvest, it is very prone to sunburn damage, and may even lose its edible value.
2. Soil
Loquat is not strict about soil requirements and has wide adaptability. It can grow and bear fruit in general soils, but grows better in loose soil containing more sand or gravel. For loquat planting, it is advisable to choose flat, high-yielding dry land that has been cultivated for years, with deep, loose, fertile soil rich in organic matter. A soil pH of 6.0 is most suitable. When choosing a site, water sources must be considered to ensure the orchard can be irrigated from November each year to May of the following year, and transportation and shipping should be convenient. Land that is low-lying and prone to waterlogging should not be chosen. Before planting, deep plowing of more than 30cm must be carried out over the whole area.
3. Planting time
Where irrigation conditions exist, planting is best done in February~March; where there are no irrigation conditions, it should be planted in mid-June (the beginning of the rainy season). In warm climates, loquat trees grow quickly, and the planting density should be 60~70 plants/mu, with a plant-row spacing of 3m×4m or 3m×3.5m. They can bear fruit 3 years after field planting, and after a certain number of years thinning should be carried out, which is beneficial for management and for obtaining early high yields.
4. Planting method
In September~October of the year before planting, while the soil is moist, dig planting pits 60cm deep, 80cm wide at the top and 70cm wide at the bottom, and at the same time pile the topsoil and subsoil separately. Into each planting pit apply 30kg of farmyard manure or sugar mud and 0.8kg of calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer as base fertilizer, mix with the topsoil and apply into the planting hole, then backfill all the original subsoil. The backfilling work must be completed 2 months before planting the loquat seedlings, so that the base fertilizer fully decomposes and the filled soil settles. Transplanted seedlings should be selected as free of pests and diseases, with dark green leaves and a well-developed root system; the thickness of the graft union must be more than 1cm, with the union healing well, and 45~50cm above the union (preferably branched). When planting, the root crown of the seedling should be level with the ground and must not be too deep; some leaves and tender shoots should be pruned off to reduce evaporation. When planting, let the fine soil come into full contact with the root system, compact the soil around the roots, and each plant must be watered with about 20L of settling water; after the water seeps down, cover with a layer of fine soil. Prune the trunk at 45—50cm above the ground.