When Does the Frangipani Tree Bloom, How Many Years Until It Bears Fruit, and How to Grow It
The frangipani tree is cultivated in Guangdong, Guangxi, Yunnan, Fujian and other provinces and regions in China, and in the mountains of southern Yunnan it has escaped cultivation and become wild. So when does the frangipani tree bloom? How to grow it? How many years until it blooms and bears fruit? The details are compiled as follows:
When does the frangipani tree bloom
The frangipani tree blooms in August and September every year.
How to grow the frangipani tree
Frangipani likes a hot and humid climate, tolerates drought, prefers to grow in limestone rocky soil, and is very easy to propagate by cuttings. Generally, in mid to late May, cut a branch 20-30 cm long from the base of a branch; white latex will flow from the cut, so it needs to be placed in a cool, ventilated place for 2-3 days to let the wound form a protective film before cutting, as cuttings with latex are prone to rot. Insert it into clean vermiculite or a sand bed or a shallow sand pot, then spray with water, place it indoors or under an outdoor shade shed, and spray water once every other day to keep the substrate moist. After cutting, move it to a semi-shaded place after 15-20 days so it receives weak light; it will root in 30-35 days and can be potted in 45 days. After the small cutting has rooted and survived, it should be transplanted promptly into a pot with a diameter of 20 cm. Frangipani is not demanding about soil and is best planted in loose soil rich in humus. When planting, the roots may be slightly exposed when potting; after planting, place it indoors, let it see weak light after 1 week, and after another half month it can be placed in a sunny spot. Frangipani grows rapidly and needs to be repotted once every spring, generally into a pot with a diameter of 30 cm. The potting soil can be mixed from 4 parts garden soil, 4 parts horse manure soil, and 2 parts river sand, with 100 g of cake fertilizer or sauce residue and 50 g of superphosphate or bone meal added per pot. After repotting, water thoroughly, and move it outdoors to a sunny place around Grain Rain. Frangipani likes a warm, humid, sunny growing environment; in summer it does not need shading and can be placed outdoors in full sun. Summer and autumn are the periods when frangipani grows and blooms; water it 1-2 times every evening, and when it rains in summer and autumn, promptly pour out any accumulated water in the pot. From June to November, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once every 10 days or so at a concentration of 15%. In the south, frangipani is planted in the open ground, drops its leaves in winter, and grows new leaves again the following spring. In the north, potted plants should be moved indoors to a south-facing window in mid to late October, taking care to provide ventilation and light. The room temperature should be above 10°C; low temperatures and poor indoor ventilation will cause the plant to drop its leaves. Indoors, water once every two weeks.
For potted frangipani, it is best to use a clay pottery pot with good permeability; if using a plastic pot, place a layer of broken bricks and tiles or broken hard plastic foam blocks at the bottom of the pot to enhance air permeability and drainage. Its root system is relatively well developed and it grows quickly; small seedlings can be planted in a medium pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, and as the plant grows, it can be moved into a pot one size larger. It is not very demanding about soil, and grows best in loose, fertile sandy loam. For home potting, use equal parts leaf mold and garden topsoil mixed together, then add a small amount of sand; repot and change the soil once every spring before sprouting.
Frangipani likes moisture and also tolerates drought, but fears waterlogging. Therefore, watering should be moderate, following the principle of not watering when not dry, watering as soon as it is dry, watering thoroughly when watering, and never allowing waterlogging. In spring and autumn, water once every 1 to 2 days when the soil is dry; in summer, water once every morning on sunny days, and in the evening water again if the soil is dry. In the rainy season, be careful to pour out accumulated water in the pot to prevent root rot; in winter, water once every ten days to half a month, keeping the potting soil slightly moist but not dry. It likes fertilizer. When potting or repotting and changing soil, add 20 g to 30 g of bone meal and 50 g to 80 g of superphosphate to the culture soil (because it likes to grow in calcareous soil, pay attention to calcium supplementation). From May to October, apply a light, decomposed organic fertilizer or nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer once every 10 to 15 days; avoid applying nitrogen fertilizer alone to prevent excessive vegetative growth, and do not fertilize in winter.
Frangipani is a strongly sun-loving flowering plant; the more sufficient the sunlight, the more luxuriant its growth and the more numerous and fragrant its flowers. Except that after potting or repotting and changing soil it needs shade for 7 to 10 days, at other times it should be placed in a sunny spot. Because it is native to the tropical regions of the Americas, it is not cold-tolerant. Losing its leaves in winter when cultivated in temperate zones is a manifestation of its poor cold tolerance, and it should be brought indoors to overwinter. Before the minimum temperature drops to 10°C, move it indoors and place it in a sunny spot, maintaining a room temperature of 10°C to 15°C; kept away from television radiation and air-conditioning warm air, it may not drop its leaves, but if it is below 8°C or ventilation is poor, it will also drop its leaves. As long as it stays above 5°C, it will not freeze to death, and the following spring it will sprout and grow leaves.
Frangipani grown in temperate zones generally does not set seed and is propagated by cuttings. From late May to early June, cut a branch about 20 cm long from the branching point as a cutting; white latex will flow from the cut, and if it is inserted without treatment, the cutting is prone to rot. It can be placed in a well-ventilated, cool place, and after 2 to 3 days, once a protective film has formed over the wound, it can be inserted, or the wound can be dipped in plant ash or sulfur powder and inserted after it dries slightly into vermiculite or a plain sand pot, placed in a well-ventilated shaded place, and sprayed with water frequently to keep the cutting moist. After 20 days, move it to a semi-shaded place where it can see the sun in the morning or evening; it can root in 30 to 40 days with a high survival rate, and can be potted in autumn or the following spring.