When should you fertilize a grapevine grown at home, what fertilizer should you use, and how should you manage it?

Grapes are a very common fruit in supermarkets, and because of different varieties, the fruit and flavor also differ. Today I will tell you: when should you generally fertilize a home-grown grapevine? What fertilizer is best? How should it be managed?

1. When should a grapevine generally be fertilized? What fertilizer is best?

(1) Bud-break fertilizer

Timing: clear the fertilizer trench within 5-10 days before the Beginning of Spring, and fertilize within 5-10 days after the Beginning of Spring. Method: strive to apply organic fertilizer together with inorganic fertilizer, open a fertilizer trench 10-15 cm deep 30-40 cm away from the main trunk and apply, and after fertilizing, clear the trench and cover with soil. Dosage per mu: 1000-3000 kg of barnyard manure, 40 kg of urea, 25-50 kg of ordinary calcium superphosphate, 20 kg of potassium sulfate, 3 kg of zinc sulfate, 3 kg of boron fertilizer, 12.5 kg of ferrous sulfate.

(2) Supplementary fertilizer for weak branches

After sprouting, plots where the branches grow weakly or sprout unevenly need supplementary fertilizer at the bud stage to strengthen the branches. Dosage per mu: 20 kg of urea, 25 kg of ordinary calcium superphosphate, 15 kg of potassium sulfate.

(3) Young fruit swelling fertilizer (fruit-thickening fertilizer)

In April, the first fruit-thickening fertilizer application should be done well, applying 30 kg of urea, 25 kg of ordinary calcium superphosphate, and 20 kg of potassium sulfate per mu. After that, apply fruit-thickening fertilizer about once every 20 days. Generally 2-3 applications are needed per year, with the same dosage as the first.

(4) Sugar-increasing and coloring fertilizer

After the fruit begins to color slightly, apply the sugar-increasing and coloring fertilizer well, applying 30 kg of urea, 25 kg of ordinary calcium superphosphate, and 30-35 kg of potassium sulfate per mu.

(5) Autumn base fertilizer

Timing: for newly planted grapevines and early-maturing varieties, apply after shallow hoeing to cut roots in early autumn; for mid- and late-maturing varieties, apply promptly at the end of fruit harvest. Method: apply organic fertilizer together with inorganic chemical fertilizer, open a fertilizer trench 30-40 cm away from the main trunk and apply, and clear the trench and cover with soil. Dosage per mu: 3000-5000 kg of barnyard manure, 25-50 kg of ordinary calcium superphosphate, 30-35 kg of potassium sulfate, 3 kg of zinc sulfate, 3 kg of boron fertilizer.

(6) Foliar fertilizer

Spray foliar fertilizer once before grape flowering and once during the young fruit stage. Method: 0.1% urea + 0.2% borax (or replace with 0.2% zinc sulfate) + 0.2% monopotassium phosphate.

2. How should a grapevine be managed?

1. Improve tree nutrition. From after sprouting to the early flowering stage, reasonably apply quick-acting fertilizers mainly of nitrogen and phosphorus, then water promptly.

2. Pinch the shoots at the right time. Pinch according to the required standard in good time to regulate nutrition, so as to ensure the nutritional needs at flowering.

3. Spray boron. Spray a 0.3% borax solution half a month before flowering, which has a clear effect on increasing the fruit-setting rate.

4. Spray B9 (daminozide). About 7 days before flowering, spray a 0.3%-0.5% B9 solution to control the growth of new shoots.

5. Remove secondary clusters and shorten and trim the cluster tip. After the flower cluster is selected, for large-berry varieties with tightly set berries, promptly cut off the secondary cluster and 2-3 branches at the upper part of the fruit cluster; for overly dense small clusters or berries and overly long cluster tips, also carry out thinning and shortening, so that the fruit cluster is compact and the berries are uniform in size and attractive.

6. Girdling: according to the purpose of girdling, determine different girdling times. If the aim is to increase the fruit-setting rate, carry it out at the beginning of flowering; if the aim is to enlarge the berries, carry it out during the berry swelling stage; if the aim is to make the fruit ripen earlier and increase the sugar content, carry it out during the fruit coloring stage. For the girdling position, it is best to choose 3 cm in front of the fruit stalk on the fruiting branch at the top of a thick fruiting mother branch, or the previous internode. The tool can be a double-bladed girdling knife or a budding knife. The cut should be 2-3 mm wide and deep to the xylem; after removing the bark, immediately bind it tightly with clean plastic film strips. To prevent wind breakage, tying on some wooden sticks or bamboo splints is safer.