Pothos Care Guide and Precautions: What to Do When Leaves Turn Yellow, and When to Propagate from Cuttings

Pothos is an evergreen vine plant belonging to the genus Epipremnum in the Araceae family. It can be grown in soil or in water. With proper care, its leaves grow large and green, making it very suitable for placing on a study windowsill. Do you know how to grow pothos? Let's take a look together at pothos care methods and precautions!

Pothos Care Methods

Two Ways to Grow Pothos

Soil culture: Pothos is easy to grow. For soil culture, the preparation work is to choose soil suitable for pothos growth. The soil should be as fertile as possible, since most of the pothos's nutrients come from the soil. Try to select some soil from field areas, mix in some animal manure, and put some fine crushed dead leaves into the soil. Pothos likes soft soil, and dead leaves and manure serve to increase soil fertility and make it loose and breathable.

Water culture: Hydroponic pothos is one of the very good indoor decorative hydroponic plants, a climbing vine foliage flower. The vine stems are slender and soft, and the leaves are delicate and elegant. Hydroponic pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a sunny spot indoors in all four seasons. In rooms with dim light, it should be moved every half month to a brighter environment for a period of recovery, otherwise the internodes tend to lengthen and the leaves become smaller.

Light and Temperature for Pothos

Light: The original growing conditions of pothos are in forests shaded by towering trees, so its heliotropism is not strong. But in the north during autumn and winter, in order to supplement the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased.

Temperature: In the north, with a room temperature above 10°C, pothos can safely overwinter; with a room temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Generally, households have no problem reaching this temperature. What needs attention is avoiding excessive temperature differences, and also making sure the leaves do not get close to heating equipment.

Precautions for Pothos Care

Shaping and Pruning Pothos

People rely on clothes and horses rely on saddles; succulents and foliage plants often need trimming to maintain a beautiful shape.

Pothos is very popular among foliage plants, and of course you need to pay attention to shaping and pruning it!

Plant or directly insert 4-5 plants per pot, and set up a moss pole in the middle of the pot to make it easy for the pothos to twine and grow upward. Shaping and pruning are carried out in spring. When the stems and vines have covered the moss pole and the tip ends exceed the moss pole by about 20cm, cut off 40cm of the stem tips of 2-3 of the plants. After the shortened stems sprout new buds and new leaves, then cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants.

For potted plants that have lost leaves on the whole plant or the lower half due to winter freezing or other reasons, you can shorten half of the stems by 1/2 and the other half by 2/3 or 3/4, so that the cut openings are staggered at different heights. In this way, the new leaves that grow below the cuts can quickly cover the moss pole.

Watch Out for Yellowing Pothos Leaves

Generally, newly bought pothos have an adaptation period of about 1 month in a new environment, and yellow leaves at the bottom are normal. However, remember: do not directly peel off yellow or dead leaves; cut them off from the middle of the leaf stalk. This avoids excessive water loss and extra wounds caused by direct peeling, which would otherwise cause the upper leaves to turn yellow as well.

Although pothos is not afraid of shade, a very dark environment can also cause yellow leaves. You can regularly move its position to a place with good light; at the same time, it must not be exposed to harsh sun. Excessive exposure to strong light will not only cause yellow leaves and leaf drop, but can also lead to the death of the whole plant. In summer, avoid strong light exposure.

Common Diseases of Pothos

Common diseases of pothos: anthracnose, root rot, leaf spot.

These three common pothos diseases all harm the plant's leaves and affect its ornamental value. During care, everyone must observe carefully; when spots are found on the leaves, clean them up promptly and spray medication promptly.

Several Reasons Why Pothos Leaves Turn Yellow

1. Environmental problems:

Many people find that within a few days of buying pothos, the bottom leaves start to turn yellow and black. This is because the pothos has arrived in a new environment and needs to adapt, so the old leaves turn yellow and black. Sudden environmental changes, too-large sudden changes in temperature, humidity and light, or repotting that damages the roots and requires recovery can all cause leaves to turn yellow.

Specific signs: New leaves are normal, old leaves turn yellow and black.

Solution: There is no need to worry in this situation. You can take measures to reduce the degree of environmental change, and once it adapts, it will be fine. Generally it returns to normal after a period of time.

2. Sunlight problems:

Pothos is a shade-loving plant that likes hot and humid environments and avoids direct sunlight. If it is placed for a long time on a balcony or windowsill with direct sunlight, it is very easy for the leaves to become scorched and yellow.

Specific signs: Yellow spots appear on the sun-facing part of the leaves, and they become limp and withered.

Solution: Place it in a place with direct sunlight and ventilation, and water it appropriately. After a period of easing, it will return to normal.

3. Ventilation problems:

If pothos is placed for a long time in an unventilated place with no light, the whole plant is likely to turn yellowish. This is caused by the lack of light and ventilation, which prevents the pothos from synthesizing chlorophyll.

Specific signs: Both new and old leaves turn yellow

Solution: Move it to a ventilated place that is not dark and it will recover.

4. Watering problems:

Pothos relatively likes hot and humid environments, but it cannot be watered too much, especially in autumn and winter. Too much or too little watering can both cause leaves to turn yellow.

Specific signs: If the leaf tips or edges dry up, new leaves grow normally, and old leaves wither, turn yellow and fall off, then it is insufficient watering; if the leaf surface is dull yellow and lusterless, and the newly grown leaf tips shrivel and do not grow, then it is overwatering.

Solution: Appropriately increase or reduce watering.

5. Fertilizing problems:

Yellowing caused by too much fertilizer or too high concentration shows as dry brown tips on new leaves; generally the leaf surface is thick and lusterless, and uneven and not spreading smoothly, while old leaves wither, turn yellow and fall off. Lack of fertilizer makes the leaf surface color fade, first transitioning to light green, then gradually turning yellow.

Specific signs: When overfertilized, dry brown tips appear on new leaves, and the leaf surface is thick and lusterless, uneven and not spreading smoothly; when lacking fertilizer, the tender leaves fade in color and become yellow or light green, while the old leaves remain relatively normal or gradually turn from green to yellow.

Solution: When overfertilized, consider changing the potting soil; when lacking fertilizer, simply pay attention to fertilizing.

6. Root rot problems:

Root rot is also a cause of pothos turning yellow. Generally, the root rot problem in pothos is caused by the potting soil and watering.

Specific signs: The tender leaves fade in color and become yellow or light green.

Solution: Cut off the rotten roots, apply plant ash to the wounds, then change the potting soil and repot. Note that there must be no standing water in the pot, and it is best to sprinkle plant ash on the bottom.

When Is the Best Time to Propagate Pothos from Cuttings

Suitable cutting time:

Indoor-grown pothos can be propagated from cuttings in all four seasons, but April to August is best.

Unsuitable cutting time:

When the temperature is below 15°C, it affects the growth activity of pothos, so cutting is not recommended at this time.

Key points for cutting:

In order to increase the survival rate of pothos cuttings, when selecting cuttings, everyone can choose branches with obvious aerial roots, which can root quickly.

Soil Cutting of Pothos

Prepare nutrient soil: mix 8 parts coconut coir, 0.5 part perlite, and 1.5 parts garden soil evenly, and sterilize by drying in the sun for later use.

Choose a robust vine with aerial roots as the cutting mother stock. Having aerial roots can greatly shorten the rooting speed. Have a pair of sharp scissors ready.

Cut the branch section by section. Each cutting branch should be about 10cm, with 1-2 leaves and 1 bud point kept on top. Try to avoid the aerial roots when making the cut, and cut the lower end at a slanted 45-degree angle; it is best if it is smooth.

Insert the branches vertically into the soil, leaving a certain distance between each branch, and fill the entire flowerpot.

After inserting the branches, water thoroughly and place in a cool, ventilated place. The soil needs to be kept moist and the air temperature relatively high. The soil moisture should be around 50%, while the air humidity is best at 80%-90%.

Generally, roots form after more than 10 days. On sunny summer days, pay attention to misting the leaves and shading; in winter, pay attention to cold protection. About 10 days after rooting, they can be moved to a pot for normal management.

Pothos has very strong vitality. Even if a branch has no leaves, as long as it has a bud point, it can be used for cuttings. The thicker and stronger the branch, the faster it sprouts! The method is the same as cutting branches with leaves. After two weeks, the pothos bud points begin to sprout.

Water Cutting of Pothos

Choose branches with aerial roots. Each cutting branch should be about 20cm, with 1-2 leaves and 1 bud point kept on top, and try to avoid the aerial roots when making the cut. Place the cutting branches into a hydroponic container, and change the water when it becomes cloudy.

It is best not to use single leaves or tender stems without aerial roots; they are difficult to root and easily rot, causing the water quality to deteriorate, so fish them out and throw them away.

After a period of time, once the branches have grown relatively plump roots, they can be transferred to soil culture, or they can remain in water culture the whole time.