Can Nandina be kept alive in the North, Sapling Prices, Planting Methods and Its Effects and Functions

Nandina is also known as Nantianzhu, Hongpazi, Tianzhuzi, Honggouzi, Zuanshihuang, Tianzhu and Lanzhu. Because of its superior and elegant form, it is also often used to make bonsai or potted plants to decorate windowsills, entrance halls, venues and so on.So can Nandina be kept alive in the North? How much is a sapling? What are the planting methods? What are its effects and functions? According to the Jiangsu nursery stock base, 1 cm Nandina saplings are about 0.6 yuan each; 60 cm ones are about 1.2 yuan each; 120 cm ones are about 18 yuan each.

Can Nandina be kept alive in the North?

Yes.

Nandina likes warmth and moisture, and widely adapts to the soil and climate south of the Yellow River. In North China it is still mainly grown in pots, and in a few places it has already been cultivated in the open ground, such as in the courtyard of the Xishan Wofo Temple, where it has been grown in the open ground for many years. Therefore, in courtyards with a favorable microclimate in urban Beijing, it has great prospects for promotion. Choose an environment that can shelter it from wind and protect it from cold in winter, such as planting at the base of a wall, where the microclimate temperature can be 3-5C higher than in open areas; even more important is changing the soil and applying fertilizer, choosing good humic acid soil, which can retain water and fertilizer and bring the soil pH to neutral to weakly alkaline; do not expose it to too much sun. If such a small courtyard environment can be created, Nandina can completely overwinter safely in Beijing and grow vigorously.

What are the planting methods for Nandina?

Propagation methods

Propagation is mainly by sowing and division, and can also be done by cuttings. Seeds can be sown as soon as the fruit is collected when ripe, or sown in spring. Division is best done before buds sprout in spring or in autumn. Cuttings are taken before new buds sprout or when new shoots stop growing in summer. When caring for it indoors, ventilation and light transmission should be strengthened to prevent scale insects.

Seed propagation

Collect seeds in autumn and sow immediately after collection. On a prepared seedbed, open furrows at a row spacing of 33 cm, about 10 cm deep, and scatter the seeds evenly, with a sowing rate of 90-120 kg per hectare. After sowing, cover with plant ash and fine soil, and press firmly. In the second year the seedlings grow slowly, so weeds should be removed frequently, the soil loosened, and light human and livestock manure applied. After that, pay attention every year to intertillage and weeding. With topdressing, after 3 years of cultivation they can be lifted from the nursery and planted out. Transplanting is best done after rain in spring. Plant spacing and row spacing are each 100 cm. Before planting, dig up the seedlings with soil; if they cannot be kept with soil, the roots must be dipped in thin mud, so that they are easier to keep alive after planting.

Division propagation

In spring and autumn, dig out the clustered plants, shake off the old soil, and cut them apart at the weak points where the bases join. Each cluster should have 2 to 3 stems and part of the root system, and some of the larger pinnate compound leaves should also be cut off. Plant in the ground or in pots, and after one or two years of cultivation they can bloom and bear fruit.

Site selection and land preparation

Choose sandy loam with deep soil, fertility and good drainage and irrigation. Neutral and slightly alkaline soil with good drainage on hillsides and flat land can also be used for planting. Marginal and gap land can also be used for cultivation. Before planting, prepare low beds or high beds 120-150 cm wide.

Field management

Nandina is suitable for slightly acidic soil, which can be prepared in a ratio of 5 parts sandy soil, 4 parts leaf mold and 1 part manure soil. Before planting, first cover the small drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with broken tile pieces; adding a layer of charcoal is even better, as it helps drainage and sterilization. Generally the plant roots carry soil; if there are broken roots, torn roots, blackened roots or excess roots, they should be cut off. Add soil and plant the plant in the usual way, water thoroughly, then place it in a shady, cool place, and after about 15 days it can be exposed to sunlight. Repot once every 1-2 years. Usually the plant is knocked out of the pot, the old growing medium removed, most of the root system cut off, and thin, weak and overly short branches removed to set the trunk and shape it, preferably leaving 3-5 plants, then planted into the pot with growing medium and cared for in the shade, with normal management after half a month. Nandina is best kept in a semi-shady, cool and humid place. Under strong light, the stems become thick and short and dark red, young leaves are “burned”, and mature leaves turn red; in very shady places, the stems are thin and the leaves long, and the clump is loose, which damages its ornamental value and is also unfavorable for fruiting. The suitable growing temperature for Nandina is about 20°C, and the suitable temperature for flowering and fruiting is 24-25°C. In winter, move it into a greenhouse, generally not below 0°C. After Qingming Festival the next year, move it outdoors.

Nandina should be watered by the principle of seeing dry and seeing wet. In dry seasons, water frequently to keep the soil moist; in summer, water once a day and spray the leaf surface 2-3 times to keep the leaves moist and prevent the leaf tips from drying and scorching, which would damage their appearance. When flowering, special attention should be paid to watering, not letting the pot soil dry out, and sprinkling water on the ground to raise air humidity, so as to help increase the pollination rate. In winter the plant is in a semi-dormant state, so do not let the pot soil become too wet. As for watering time, in summer it is best done in the morning and evening, and in winter it is best done at noon. During the growing period, thin seedlings should be given a light fertilizer about once every half a month (preferably organic fertilizer containing more phosphorus). Adult plants are given dry fertilizer three times a year, in May, August and October respectively; the third time should be applied when they are moved indoors for overwintering. The fertilizer can be fully fermented cake fertilizer and sesame paste residue, etc. The amount applied should generally be small the first and second times, and can be increased the third time. During the growing period, cut off shoots sprouting from the roots and densely growing branches, and cut off stems with longer fruit spikes, leaving 1 or 2 lower stems, so as to keep the plant shape attractive and favor flowering and fruiting.

In the first year after planting, carry out intertillage, weeding and topdressing once each in spring, summer and winter, and at the same time replant missing seedlings. After that, carry out intertillage, weeding and topdressing only once each year in spring or winter.

Four to five years after planting, some old stems of Nandina can be cut and harvested in winter. After 6-7 years, the whole plant can be dug up, the soil shaken off, the leaves removed, and the stems and roots split into thin slices and dried in the sun for later use. In October-November, when the fruit turns red or yellowish-white, harvest and dry it in the sun for later use.

Appendix: Effects and functions of Nandina

Functions and indications

Damp-heat jaundice, gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection, conjunctivitis, cough, wheezing, whooping cough, indigestion, diarrhea, blood in the urine, lumbar muscle strain.

Root and stem: clear heat and remove dampness, unblock meridians and activate collaterals. Used for cold and fever, conjunctivitis, lung-heat cough, damp-heat jaundice, acute gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection, and traumatic injuries.

Fruit: bitter, neutral. Slightly toxic. Relieves cough and calms asthma. Used for cough, asthma, and whooping cough.