How much does a jin of Qilin watermelon seeds cost? Detailed explanation of planting, seedling raising and germination time
Qilin watermelon (Qilin melon) is a variety of watermelon, generally maturing and coming to market in summer. Because of its good taste, short growth cycle and quick returns, it is widely planted, but due to its demanding growing environment, it is grown in very few regions. So how much does a jin of Qilin watermelon seeds cost? How to plant it? How long until it germinates? How to raise seedlings?
Seed price:
The market price of Qilin watermelon seeds is about 1280 yuan to 1300 yuan per jin. Factors affecting the price of Qilin watermelon seeds also include regional differences, so when buying, the local price should be taken as the standard.
How long until it germinates?
About one day for the white root tip to show. About one week for the sprout to appear.
How to plant it?
1. Field selection and land preparation. Choose sandy loam soil, with a deep plough layer, and capable of both drainage and irrigation, preferably in one concentrated, contiguous block for easy management. Before building the shed, carry out uniform mechanical land preparation; during preparation, spread the base fertilizer and plough it deep into the soil. Generally, apply 250kg of organic fertilizer, 50kg of imported ternary compound fertilizer and 50kg of superphosphate per 667 sq m. With the shed 4.6m wide, open a 30cm wide, 15cm deep walkway in the middle, and divide the interior into 2 beds, each 2m.
2. Germination and sowing. Sun the seeds for one day before sowing. For germination, first soak them in warm water at 55°C for 15 to 30 minutes, stirring while soaking. Or treat with 1% formaldehyde solution for 10 minutes, rinse clean with clear water, then soak the seeds for 6 to 8 hours. Then rub and wash the mucilage off the seed surface, wrap the seeds in a damp cloth, and place them at 28°C to 32°C for germination (body temperature or an electric blanket can be used for germination). Generally, after 24 to 30 hours they show the white root tip and are ready to sow.
Notes on seed germination:
1. Do not germinate the seeds too densely or too sparsely.
2. The germination humidity must not be too high or too low; observe frequently and adjust constantly during germination, and solve any problems promptly.
3. Do not let the humidity get too high, and pay attention to aeration to speed up sprouting. The soaking time should not be too long, and the water on the seeds should be drained off.
4. The sprout length should only be until the white root tip shows, and at most should not exceed 3 millimeters.
5. Turn the seeds frequently during germination to promote even heating and increase air permeability; when the seed packet is found to be sticky or smells sour, wash it promptly with warm water.
Seedling-stage management techniques:
1. Selection of the seedbed site: Seedlings should be raised in a shed, and it is best to choose a plot close to the cultivation field, with high, dry terrain, sheltered from the wind and facing the sun, with good light conditions and convenient drainage and irrigation.
2. Preparation of nutrient soil: The nutrient soil should be loose, fertile and water-retentive, and needs to be composted more than 1 month in advance. Take paddy field soil that has not grown cucurbits for more than 3 years, add decomposed farmyard manure, compound fertilizer, calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer and plant ash, etc., mix well, then cover with plastic film and compost. Paddy field soil : decomposed farmyard manure : plant ash = 5:3:2, and at the same time add 5 kg of calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer and 2 kg of crushed compound fertilizer per 1 cubic meter of nutrient soil. During mixing, 50% carbendazim 600-fold solution or 1% formalin solution can be used for disinfection, turning and sprinkling evenly, then drying and sieving.
3. Seedbed preparation: Generally, about 400 seedlings are needed per mu of watermelon. Build the seedling shed in advance and make an electrically heated hotbed. Level the seedbed into a concave bed 1.3 meters wide, 5 centimeters deep, with the length as needed; for insulation, lay a layer of old plastic film underneath, fill in 2 centimeters of rice husk, cover with a layer of disease-free fine soil, pat the soil surface flat, then lay the heating wire for warming, laying 1000 watts of heating wire per 10 square meters of seedbed, sparser in the middle of the bed and slightly denser at the two sides. Connect the power supply and switch, choose plastic nutrient pots of 10 cm × 10 cm size, fill them with nutrient soil, and arrange them on the heating wire of the seedbed, then cover well with film to keep and raise the temperature.
4. Germination and sowing: Sun the seeds for one day before sowing. For germination, first soak them in warm water at 55°C for 15 to 30 minutes, stirring while soaking. Or treat with 1% formaldehyde solution for 10 minutes, rinse clean with clear water, then soak the seeds for 6 to 8 hours. Then rub and wash the mucilage off the seed surface, wrap the seeds in a damp cloth, and place them at 28°C to 32°C for germination (body temperature or an electric blanket can be used for germination). Generally, after 24 to 30 hours they show the white root tip and are ready to sow. Two days before sowing, water the nutrient soil thoroughly once as bottom water, and switch on the power to preheat the seedbed; sow once the soil temperature is controlled above 25°C. Sowing is best done on a sunny morning, one seed per pot, with the seed laid flat; after sowing cover with 0.5 centimeters of fine soil, sprinkle water appropriately, then lay plastic film and build a small arch shed for insulation.
5. Seedling-stage management
(1) Temperature: Before emergence, keep the small arch shed at a relatively high temperature, ideally 28°C to 30°C during the day and 18°C to 25°C at night. When 30% of the seedlings have emerged, promptly remove the plastic film covering the nutrient pots and the small arch shed film for ventilation. After emergence, keep the shed temperature at about 25°C during the day and 15°C to 18°C at night. If the temperature is insufficient during seedling raising, use the electric heating wire switched on for warming.
(2) Humidity: Water management of the seedbed nutrient soil follows the principle of “better dry than wet”; from emergence until the true leaves unfold, water as little as possible, and afterwards decide according to how dry or wet the nutrient soil is; do not water if the soil has not turned pale, and if you water, water thoroughly; watering is best done at noon. The shed should be ventilated as much as possible while ensuring the air temperature, to reduce humidity and prevent disease. If after a long spell of rain the sky clears and the seedling leaves wilt, cover appropriately with a shade net to shade them and help the seedlings return to normal. Stop watering 5 to 7 days before transplanting. Generally no topdressing is needed during the seedling stage; if the seedlings are thin and weak, foliar topdressing can be done with 0.3% urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate.
(3) Light: During the seedling stage, let the seedlings see plenty of light, and remove the small arch shed film during the day. In continuous cloudy and rainy weather, supplement light artificially, using a 300-watt incandescent bulb per 10 square meters of seedbed.
(4) Pest and disease control: Seedlings raised in early spring are prone to damping-off and many other diseases because of the low seedbed temperature and high humidity. Besides reducing the humidity in the shed as much as possible, agents such as Previcur, Dacotech and metalaxyl mancozeb can be used for control. In continuous low-temperature, weak-light, rainy weather, agents can be mixed with dry fine soil and broadcast in the seedbed. Spray once with 50% carbendazim 600-fold solution before planting out, and take the seedlings to the field with the treatment.