What Is the Best Time to Transplant Apple Trees for a High Survival Rate? A Detailed Guide to Tree Age Selection and Methods

Transplanting, also known as transplanting, refers to the operation of moving seedlings from a seedbed to the field. When transplanting, soil may be kept or not; transplanting with soil damages fewer roots and can shorten the recovery period, leading to earlier survival and growth.So for transplanting apple trees, what tree age is better? What time gives a high survival rate? What are the transplanting methods?

For transplanting apple trees, what tree age is better?

Apple trees on standard rootstock up to 8 years old can all be transplanted. If a high-density orchard of trees under 8 years old needs thinning to reduce density, consider transplanting the apple trees to be thinned into a newly established orchard, or using them to fill gaps in orchards with missing trees. Especially when replanting on the same site, planting large trees can effectively prevent the occurrence of replant disease.

What time gives a high survival rate for transplanting apple trees?

1. Transplant apples in early spring (late March to early April) or late autumn (October to November) in most climates. Avoid autumn transplanting under extreme climate conditions. Mild-climate areas have frost or heavy or waterlogged soil due to the risk of snowmelt.

2. Transplanting should be done 15-20 days before the apple trees bud. In the central and southern areas of Hebei Province, transplanting should be done in mid-to-late March, and in the northern areas, transplanting should be done from late March to early April.

What are the transplanting methods for apple trees?

1. Transplanting large trees with a soil ball. Water thoroughly 1 day before digging up the tree; when digging, keep the root system as intact as possible and keep soil around the roots. After digging, wrap the soil ball well with plastic bags, straw rope or burlap sacks and transport it to the planting site. Before transplanting, dig a planting hole 100 cm × 100 cm × 80 cm in advance (adjust the size flexibly according to the size of the soil ball and the spread of the root system). When planting, backfill soil while firming it step by step, especially in larger gaps around the roots; a wooden stick can be used to tamp the soil firmly so that the roots make full contact with the soil. Once filled level with the ground, build a watering basin, then water thoroughly; after the water has fully infiltrated, straighten the trunk and cover with soil until level with the ground.

2. Transplanting large trees without a soil ball. When digging up the tree, keep the root system as intact as possible. During transport, load and unload gently and cover with shade material to avoid damage to the tree body and roots. Before transplanting, dig a planting hole 100 cm × 100 cm × 80 cm in advance (adjust the size flexibly according to the size of the fruit tree root system and the spread of the roots). It is best to plant on the same day the tree is dug and transported, shortening the time between digging, transport and planting as much as possible. Before planting, prune the roots, cutting the damaged tips of the roots flat with slanted cuts, and prepare a strong rooting powder solution at 50 mg/kg, then use a sprayer to wet all the roots. When planting, backfill soil while firming it step by step, especially in larger gaps around the roots; a wooden stick can be used to tamp the soil firmly so that the roots make full contact with the soil. When the hole is 2/3 filled, water thoroughly; after the water has fully infiltrated, cover with soil until level with the ground, build a watering basin and water again; after the water has fully infiltrated, cover with soil until level with the ground.

Post-planting management

1. Tree support. To stabilize the tree body and prevent cracks in the soil around the roots that cause water loss, pile a mound of soil 30-50 cm high at the base of the main roots; in windy areas, the tree body should also be secured with supports.

2. Tree pruning. For trees with greater root damage transplanted without soil, all side branches should be removed; for trees with less root damage transplanted with soil, some large branches can be moderately removed and side branches appropriately shortened; for trees with relatively intact roots transplanted with soil, no pruning may be needed.

3. Water and fertilizer management. After transplanting, if continuous drought occurs in spring or summer, water once every 15-20 days to ensure an adequate water supply. Newly transplanted large trees should not be fertilized, to avoid burning or rotting the roots. After the trees survive, apply additional fertilizer appropriately from July to September, and combined with pesticide spraying, carry out timely foliar fertilizer application.

4. Mulching to conserve moisture. To reduce soil water loss and increase ground temperature, mulch with film or grass promptly after planting. Before mulching with film, level the tree basin into a shape that is higher outside and slightly lower inside; the mulching range should be larger than the planting hole or mulch the entire row; grass mulching can be done around the tree basin or over the entire row, and the mulch can be straw, green grass, wheat straw, etc., with a thickness of 15-20 cm, pressed with soil in spots to prevent wind from blowing it away.