Can the plain-hearted wintersweet, a deciduous shrub, be propagated by cuttings? Its lifespan, flowering period and grafting cultivation techniques

Plain-hearted wintersweet, also called plain-hearted wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), is a deciduous shrub up to 4 m tall, often growing in clumps. Its distribution areas are mainland China, Korea, Japan, Europe and the Americas.So can plain-hearted wintersweet be propagated by cuttings? How long does it live? When does it bloom? What are the grafting cultivation techniques?According to Calycanthaceae information, the flowering period of plain-hearted wintersweet is from November to March of the following year, and the fruiting period is from April to November.

Can plain-hearted wintersweet be propagated by cuttings?

Plain-hearted wintersweet can be propagated by cuttings.

Wintersweet cuttings are best taken in spring after the flowers fade, when the sap has not yet begun to flow. At this time nutrients are relatively abundant. Select vigorous one-year-old branches, cut them into 15——20 cm lengths, and take heel cuttings.

How long does plain-hearted wintersweet live?

When plain-hearted wintersweet grows in a good environment, its lifespan is very long, and wintersweet trees several decades old are very common.

What are the grafting cultivation techniques for plain-hearted wintersweet?

1. Spring grafting: graft in spring when the buds of the rootstock begin to sprout. For the scion, choose thick, strong branches from the upper part of a superior variety, and the middle section of the branch is best. Seal the scion with wax before grafting. The grafting method can be determined by the size of the rootstock incision. If the rootstock incision is relatively thick, cleft grafting can be used.

2. Softwood cleft grafting: in May to July, when the new shoots growing from the rootstock reach a certain thickness, leave 1 to 2 pairs of leaves on them and cut them off above that point, then split the stem in half down the middle for a length of 2 to 3 cm. Take the scion from vigorous new shoots, cutting a section equal in thickness to the rootstock, keep 2 leaves at the upper end, cut away most of the leaf blade and retain 1/3, and cut the part 2 cm below the leaves into a wedge shape. Then insert the scion into the cleft of the rootstock. Since both are the same thickness, the cambium on both the left and right sides can connect. Then tie the grafted area firmly with plastic strips. Be careful to retain the rootstock leaves below the incision. After grafting, put a plastic bag over it to keep it moist. Shade it when the sun is scorching. After 15 days the scion will have taken, and then remove the plastic bag.

3. Approach grafting is suitable in May when both the rootstock and scion are growing vigorously. Generally, a division seedling or a seedling grown from seed is used as the rootstock, and it needs to be planted in a flower pot; when grafting, it can be fixed to the branch of the scion tree. The approach grafting method is used. During the operation, the incision does not need to damage the xylem. On both the rootstock and the scion, peel off a strip of bark 3 to 5 cm long; the width should be such that the cambium outside the xylem on both sides can meet. After grafting, tie the joined part firmly with plastic strips. Be careful to water the rootstock pot regularly. Approach grafting can achieve 100% survival, but it is relatively labor-intensive. One month after the graft has taken, cut off the rootstock above the incision. At the same time, cut off the scion below the incision in 3 stages, cutting 1/3 each time, once every 7 days, that is, 50 days after grafting, only then does the scion separate from the mother plant.

4. Multi-head top grafting: for larger rootstocks, multi-head grafting must be carried out. In addition to the methods described above, grafting the scion onto the tips of the branches, side grafting can also be used to supplement the lower branches (see Figure 6-17). After multi-head top grafting, special attention must be paid to removing the rootstock's suckers. Because the same rootstock is used, its rootstock and scion branches and leaves are similar and are very easily confused with each other, so when removing sprouts you must distinguish them clearly. Since the rootstock suckers grow more vigorously than the scion, the scion can easily die because of the growth of the rootstock suckers. Therefore, the sprouts on the rootstock must be removed promptly to avoid grafting failure.

Cultivation techniques:

1. Open-field planting

Choose neutral or slightly acidic sandy soil with deep soil layers, shelter from wind and facing the sun, and good drainage. Generally plant before germination in spring. For small seedlings, plant at a spacing of 30 cm × 50 cm between plants and rows; for 2-3 year old medium seedlings, plant at a spacing of 50 cm × 55 cm between plants and rows. For large seedlings planted in the ground in a courtyard, the planting hole is 60-70 cm in diameter and 40-50 cm deep; place decomposed manure, bean cake and so on at the bottom of the hole as base fertilizer, cover the base fertilizer with a layer of soil, then put in the wintersweet plant with its root ball, fill with soil, firm it by treading, and water.

2. Pot cultivation

Choose loose, fertile, well-drained sandy soil as the growing medium. Place a layer of gravel over the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot or tub. In early winter each year, choose small plants with plump flower buds, dig them up with soil, and plant them in the pot; after flowering they can be displayed for viewing. At ordinary times, keep them outdoors in a place with plenty of sunlight for care.