Why the "Queen of Flowers" Rose Doesn't Bloom: Causes, Solutions, and the Best Time and Methods for Cuttings

Rose, known as the Queen of Flowers, also called “Monthly Red”. Generally red, or pink, occasionally white and yellow, it can be used as an ornamental plant and also as a medicinal plant. Many farmers love to grow roses, so what are the reasons a rose doesn't bloom? How to deal with it? When is the best time to take rose cuttings? What are the cutting methods?

I. What are the reasons a rose doesn't bloom? How to deal with them?

1. The soil used for cultivation is barren, or the potting soil has not been changed for a long time, so fertility is weak and nutrients are lacking, especially when the phosphorus fertilizer content is too low, which inhibits the normal differentiation of flower buds and thus affects normal blooming.

2. The cultivation environment is in a shaded place with poor ventilation, and the light is insufficient, which inhibits the sprouting of flower buds.

3. Pruning work has not been done properly, the branches are too dense, nutrients are dispersed, and the flower buds lack the nutrition needed for growth.

4. In midsummer the temperature is relatively high, raising the soil temperature above 30°C, which inhibits the normal physiological functions of the root system. High temperatures also easily cause insufficient water, making the soil layer at the roots dry and hot, which easily leads to wilting of branches and leaves and scorching of leaf edges, and is thus unfavorable for autumn blooming. Therefore, watering in summer must be sufficient, and the potting soil can be properly covered, using small pieces of corncob and shortened plant stems. When watering, the covering should be pushed aside as much as possible so that water directly contacts the potting soil, which helps lower the soil temperature and control the amount of water evaporation.

5. In the early spring in the north, the temperature is hard to predict, and freezing damage occurs from time to time. This period is when rose axillary buds sprout, flower buds differentiate, and new shoots grow, so freezing damage from late frost and cold waves must be avoided, otherwise flower bud growth will be hindered and it will be difficult to form buds and bloom. After new shoots are frozen, they wither, which reduces the flowering rate of the first bloom. In summary, timely and effective protective measures should be taken against freezing damage.

6. The final reason may be infection by disease, and if the plant does not receive timely and effective control, it will die, and naturally it will not bloom.

II. When is the best time to take rose cuttings? What are the cutting methods?

1. Live tender bud cutting method

To choose live tender bud cuttings, do it in April to May or September to October. For the cuttings, generally choose healthy branches and leaves of the current year that are free of pests and diseases. After the flowering period, clean off the faded flowers and old leaves on the cuttings; wait until the branch has sufficient nutrients and the branches are thick and the leaves are strong, then on a windless morning cut off a branch of about 10 cm, keeping two compound leaves and two small leaves at the base, and remove the rest of the leaves.

The cut end of the severed branch can be dipped in rooting powder and inserted into previously prepared soil. The soil must be breathable and well-draining; you can use nutrient soil such as leaf mold or coarse sandy soil. Generally insert two-thirds of the branch, keeping 2 to 3 buds outside; after inserting, water and cover with soil. If new buds grow and the old leaves have not fallen, it means the cutting has succeeded and the cutting has taken root and survived.

2. Hardwood cutting method

The hardwood cutting method is based on the same principle as the tender bud cutting method. Choose healthy branches, cut them, treat them, and insert them into the soil. After inserting, water thoroughly; then set up a frame, cover with plastic film, and place it in a sunny position to retain moisture and humidity. By the following spring, the film can be uncovered, and once the cutting's leaves turn green and the root system has grown well, it can be transplanted.

3. Bud cutting method

In spring, when new buds grow vigorously, snap off or cut off new buds that are thick and strong with plump bud tips, wash them and set them aside; then take the previously prepared broken soil, use a wooden stick to make holes, insert the new buds into the holes to a depth of one-third of the bud length, press the surrounding soil firm after inserting, water thoroughly, and likewise cover with plastic film. Maintain ventilation twice a day, pay attention to soil moisture, and roots will form in about 15 days. After 20 days, remove the film and prepare for transplanting.

1. Moderate spraying

No matter which cutting method is used, the new seedlings must be cared for after cutting. The last step of cutting is to water thoroughly, then cover with plastic film. Later, we should often uncover the film to spray water on the cuttings to increase the humidity inside the shed. Before spraying, check first to see the condition of the seedbed and cuttings, and spray according to the humidity conditions. In hot seasons, spray about once every two days; in cold seasons, spray about once a week. In addition, as the cuttings grow, their water requirement will also increase, so everyone should judge according to the specific situation.

2. Temperature control

The suitable growing temperature for roses is 23 to 27 degrees. In spring and autumn this temperature is relatively moderate. Building windbreaks or plastic film is to prevent low temperatures in the morning and evening from freezing the seedlings. In summer, when the temperature is too high, two layers of shade sheds need to be built, and water should also be sprayed on the shade sheds in the morning and evening. The seedlings should also be surrounded on all sides, mainly to lower the temperature. Too high or too low a temperature is unfavorable for the growth of the cuttings.

3. Ventilation and air exchange

After the cuttings are finished, we build plastic film over the seedlings to make a film shed, and spray water into the shed at regular intervals. The seedlings carry out photosynthesis in the closed shed. This only ensures temperature and humidity. In addition, we should also open the shed regularly for ventilation and keep the air circulating inside the shed.