Can hyacinths be kept in the bedroom? The fertilizing method with the best absorption results
The hyacinth has a unique appearance and is the first bouquet many people choose to buy. Before it blooms it looks like garlic. It originates from the Mediterranean coast and the Asia Minor region, and is the most fragrant species among the flowering plants discovered by research. So can hyacinths be kept in the bedroom? How should hyacinths be fertilized for the best absorption results? What are the methods for growing hyacinths?
1. Can hyacinths be kept in the bedroom?
1. The hyacinth is actually a flower that contains a small amount of toxins. The flowers it produces are not toxic, but the pollen it releases can trigger allergic reactions in people with overly pollen-sensitive constitutions.
2. The hyacinth flower has a faint fragrance, but do not be fooled by its scent, because this scent should not be smelled up close for too long.
3. Its bulb is somewhat toxic. Eating it by mistake may cause stomach pain, diarrhea and dizziness, and if too much is eaten there may be a risk to life. If there are children or pets at home, then extra care should be taken with where the hyacinth is placed to avoid accidents.
4. Although the hyacinth generally causes no major problems if it is not touched, its pollen can spread through the air, and this pollen easily causes allergic reactions in the human body.
5. The fragrance of the hyacinth can affect people's sleep. If it is placed in the bedroom, smelling too much of the fragrance at night while sleeping may cause insomnia, make the fresh air in the bedroom stale, and bring adverse effects on the body.
6. At the same time, the hyacinth should also be kept out of the study as much as possible, because that can easily affect reading efficiency and cause a lack of oxygen to the brain. Therefore, try not to place the hyacinth in the bedroom, and you can choose other flowers to display instead.
2. How should hyacinths be fertilized for the best absorption results?
If your hyacinth has just been bought, do not fertilize it yet. Wait until it has settled into the pot and its growth is stable, then decide based on its growth condition whether topdressing is needed. Generally, apply topdressing once in winter, and once each before and after flowering in spring, and be sure to apply thin fertilizer frequently.
For soil-grown hyacinths, how should they be fertilized for the best absorption results? Actually, the nutrients stored in the bulb of an ordinary hyacinth can generally meet its own needs for growth and development. However, during leaf growth, regularly spray 0.2% urea, and during the bud stage spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate, to help improve flower quality. Or choose nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, such as Huaduoduo No. 2, Bikaihua, potassium dihydrogen phosphate and the like.
If yours is a hydroponic hyacinth, then generally no fertilizing is needed. It is better to add nutrient solution. Change the water once a week and add a little nutrient solution, which can promote more and more vivid blooms.
3. Methods for growing hyacinths
1. Bulb disinfection: Before planting hyacinths, it is recommended to first disinfect and sterilize the bulb to prevent rot. Remove the dried outer skin and old roots of the bulb, soak it in potassium permanganate solution (the concentration should be a faint purplish red) for a quarter of an hour to soak and disinfect. After disinfecting the bulb, shake the water off the bulb and let it dry naturally in the shade for one day.
2. Bulb planting: Because the flower buds of the hyacinth bulb have already differentiated and formed, no base fertilizer is needed during planting. Plant the bulb into the potting soil, with the soil level covering the highest point of the bulb by 2 cm as the standard. If you have no experience growing bulbs, it is recommended to leave the highest point of the bulb's top exposed half a cm above the soil (mainly to prevent excessive watering causing stem rot; the latter is recommended), and after planting is complete, water the pot thoroughly.
4. Early-stage care: After planting, the hyacinth can be placed in an environment no higher than about 10 degrees to promote root and sprout growth. The entire root and sprout promotion period is about 20 to 30 days (it may vary depending on the ambient temperature). When watering, water thoroughly only after the soil has dried out, and be sure not to water at will. You can judge the degree of dryness and moisture by weighing the pot.
5. Later-stage care: After the hyacinth sprouts, the temperature of the growing environment can be appropriately raised to shorten the time needed for flowering. The growing temperature is best kept at around 15 to 20 degrees. Below 10 degrees, growth is relatively slow, but it has no great effect on growth; above 25 degrees, blind flower phenomenon is likely to occur (the flower buds do not grow well and cannot bloom). Normally, the sunshine duration can be lengthened; with more sunshine, the plant is relatively shorter and the plant shape is more graceful. Under normal care, it takes about 30 days from sprouting to flowering; if the ambient temperature is high, it blooms earlier.
6. Flowering-period care: The flowering period of the hyacinth is about 10 to 15 days. If the ambient temperature is low, the flowering period is relatively longer. After flowering, it can be moved indoors for viewing, and given a certain amount of light properly each day to prevent the leaves and flower stems from becoming leggy.
7. Post-flowering treatment: After the hyacinth flowers fade, the spent flowers can be removed to grow the bulb. In daily management, apply a nitrogen fertilizer (cake fertilizer) about once every 2 weeks to promote the development of the bulb in the soil. How well the bulb is grown directly affects whether it will bloom again the following year. After summer arrives, the leaves will slowly turn yellow naturally, the amount of watering can be gradually reduced, and after the bulb enters dormancy, water should be completely withheld and it should be placed in a cool place (below 30 degrees is best; too high a temperature is unfavorable for the formation of flower buds).