Is Impatiens walleriana poisonous? Plus propagation methods and growing techniques!
The scientific name of Impatiens walleriana is Impatiens walleriana (Sultan's balsam), a perennial succulent herbaceous plant that prefers warmth, moisture and sunlight. So is Impatiens walleriana poisonous? What propagation methods and growing techniques does Impatiens walleriana have?
1. Is Impatiens walleriana poisonous?
There is currently a claim online that Impatiens walleriana is poisonous and releases carcinogenic substances. Because of this claim, many flower lovers who grow Impatiens walleriana feel a bit uneasy. Here we want to tell flower lovers one thing: do not be blinded by this kind of rumor. Please see the analysis below:
1. Regarding Impatiens walleriana causing cancer, so far I have not found any authoritative source; what I found are all rumors from netizens.
2. Impatiens walleriana is a common flower and plant, seen everywhere on streets and roadsides. If it caused cancer, would it still be so widespread?
3. There are many rumors online right now: various plants cause cancer, various plants purify the air, various plants prevent cancer. Whether you believe it or not, flower lover, I do not believe it, because there is no scientific basis for it at all. The cancer-causing probability of a single cigarette is far greater than that of any flower or plant kept at home.
2. Propagation methods and growing techniques of Impatiens walleriana
1. Cuttage propagation
The cutting medium is the nutrient soil, river sand, peat soil and other materials used for cuttings. For home cuttings, it is difficult to obtain an ideal cutting medium due to limited conditions. It is recommended to use a pre-mixed and sterilized cutting medium; medium-coarse river sand can also be used, but it should be rinsed with clean water several times before use. Do not use sea sand or river sand from saline-alkali areas; they are not suitable for the growth of flowers and plants. In early spring or late autumn (when the highest midday temperature does not exceed 28°C and the lowest nighttime temperature is not lower than 15°C), during the peak growing season, cut off leaves or stems (with 3 to 4 leaf nodes), wait for the wounds to dry, then insert them into the medium, and lightly spray the cuttings and medium with water. As long as the medium is not excessively dry or waterlogged, roots and new shoots can soon grow. From late spring to early autumn, when temperatures are relatively high, cuttings rot very easily, so it is best not to take cuttings
2. Potting
When potting small seedlings, first place a 2-2 cm thick layer of coarse-grained medium or ceramsite at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, then sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer on top as base fertilizer, about 1-2 cm thick, then cover with another layer of medium, about 1-2 cm thick, and then place the plant in, so as to separate the fertilizer from the roots and avoid burning the roots. For the potting medium, one of the following can be chosen. Vegetable garden soil: cinder = 3:1; or garden soil: medium-coarse river sand: sawdust (mushroom residue) = 4:1:2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, or leaf mold. Or peat + perlite + ceramsite = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; vegetable garden soil + cinder = 3 parts + 1 part; peat + cinder + ceramsite = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; sawdust + vermiculite + medium-coarse river sand = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part. After potting, water thoroughly once and keep it in a slightly shaded environment for a week.
3. Humidity management
It likes a relatively dry air environment. If rainy weather lasts too long, it is prone to infection by pathogens. It fears rain, so keep the leaves dry at night. The most suitable relative air humidity is 40-60%.
4. Temperature management
The most suitable growth temperature is 15°C-32°C. It fears high temperature and stuffiness, and enters a dormant state when the summer heat exceeds 33°C. It avoids cold and frost, and the overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10°C. In winter, when the temperature drops below 7°C, it also enters a dormant state. If the ambient temperature approaches 4°C, it will die from frost injury.
5. Light management
In summer, keep it in a semi-shaded place, or shade it by 50%, and the leaf color will be more beautiful. In spring and autumn, because the temperature is not very high, give it direct sunlight to help it carry out photosynthesis and accumulate nutrients. In winter, keep it indoors in a place with bright light. If it is usually kept indoors, place it near a southeast-facing door or window so it can receive light, and after every one month or one and a half months, move it outdoors for two months of care; otherwise the leaves will grow thin and yellow, and the new branches or petioles will be slender with elongated internodes, in a state of leggy growth.