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How to Grow Potted Cherries? A Step-by-Step Guide to the Planting Method

General News By Sophie Bennett 0 views
Cherry is a fruit deeply favored by consumers, not only rich in nutrients but also able to regulate the middle burner and boost qi, strengthen the spleen and harmonize the stomach, and dispel wind-dampness. With the popularity of potting techniques, some people have begun growing potted cherries. So, how do you grow potted cherries? Potted cherry growing

Cherry is a fruit deeply favored by consumers, not only rich in nutrients but also able to regulate the middle burner and boost qi, strengthen the spleen and harmonize the stomach, and dispel wind-dampness. With the popularity of potting techniques, some people have begun growing potted cherries. So, how do you grow potted cherries? What are the methods for growing potted cherries? Let's take a look together below.

I. How to Grow Potted Cherries?

Sowing is generally carried out in spring between late March and mid-April (with temperatures between 20 and 25°C; temperatures differ between the south and the north). First soak the cherry pits in warm water (around 50°C) for 12 hours, then rinse once with clean water, mix in plant ash and sow shallowly, and water thoroughly. After the water has completely seeped down, cover with 1.5 to 2.0 cm of fine sandy soil and gently firm the soil. If the soil moisture (referring to soil water content) is poor, you need to irrigate the spot where the cherries are to be planted with water about 7 days in advance, so that after sowing you need not worry about “bud drying”.

After the seedlings emerge from the soil surface, water according to the soil moisture. After one month, you can gradually begin fertilizing, applying little but often, mainly with nitrogen fertilizer. Of course, in summer it is best if you can apply some decomposed organic fertilizer around them.

II. Methods for Growing Potted Cherries

1. Potting and Cultivation of Cherries

① Container selection: The container for growing cherries should have good breathability and be non-toxic to the root system. Fired clay pots and wooden barrels work best, purple clay pots and plastic pots are second best, and glazed ones are the worst, because cherries are not easy to survive after potting.

② Potting soil preparation: The cherry root system has vigorous respiration and a high oxygen demand. The soil should have high permeability, with loose, deep sandy loam being best. The nutrient soil ratio is turf soil : barnyard manure : sand = 5:3:2.

③ Seedling selection: For cherry cultivation, choose varieties that grow robustly, have plump branches and buds, well-developed roots, and no pests or diseases. For perennial young trees, the trunk should be trained low, the branches should be reasonably distributed, and the taper between branches should be large.

④ Potting time: Potting of cherries is mostly done in early spring. Before potting, first prune damaged roots and branches to expose fresh cuts, and cut away any parts with pests or diseases. Next, check the container's drainage holes and keep the container draining freely.

⑤ Potting method: Place a piece of tile upside down over the drainage hole, then spread a layer of about 20 cm of furnace ash and slag, add the nutrient soil, and finally place the sapling. After lifting the seedling and pressing the soil 2 to 3 times, finish when the soil surface is about 5 cm below the rim of the container.

2. Cultivation Management of Cherries

① Water management: When cherries have many branches and leaves and temperatures are high, water frequently; otherwise, soil that is too dry will affect their growth and flowering and fruiting. Fertilization should follow the principle of applying thin fertilizer frequently. From spring to autumn, generally apply decomposed rapeseed cake fertilizer water once every 10 to 15 days. In autumn, also spray the leaves with a 0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution 2 to 3 times to promote plant growth and flower bud differentiation.

② Heat preservation and moisture retention: Cherries are relatively cold-tolerant. In high-cold regions, when planted in the ground, plastic film can be used to build a shed for cold protection. During the fruit-setting period, the temperature should be kept at around 25°C, and during the growing period the humidity should preferably be kept at 50% to 60%, which is conducive to flower bud differentiation and increased yield. If there is frost damage locally, potted cherries must be given good heat preservation and moisture retention measures.

③ Flower and fruit management: Thinning flowers and fruits is the key point of flower and fruit management in cherries; thinning buds is better than thinning flowers, and thinning flowers is better than thinning fruits. When the tree has a large number of flower buds, thin out some flower buds during the bud-break period. The method is to thin out 1/3 to 1/4 of the flower buds on cluster-type fruiting branches, ensure pollination among varieties during the flowering period, and thin out fruits with irregular shapes when the fruits have grown to the size of soybean grains.

④ Training and pruning: The terminal buds of cherries and the central buds of cluster-type fruiting branch groups are leaf buds. Flower buds are pure flower buds, mainly axillary flower buds and cluster-type ones. Axillary flower buds generally grow at the base of 1-year-old branches, so pay attention to the position of flower buds when pruning. Pruning is mainly summer pruning, with winter pruning as a supplement.

Winter pruning: Winter pruning mainly aims to adjust tree shape and balance tree vigor. Mainly thin out competing growth branches, back branches, strong vigorous branches, and slender branches. Shorten the extension branches and retract the fruiting branches.

Summer pruning: Summer pruning aims to maintain tree shape and promote flowers and preserve fruits. Cut off competing branches and back branches. Pinch the tips when branches grow to 15 to 20 cm. This is generally completed before July, no more than 2 times a year. Around September, when the branches have just stopped growing at the tips, pull the branches flat.

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