How to Grow Taro: A Detailed Guide to the Cultivation Methods of the "King of Anti-Cancer"
Taro is also called qingyu, yunai, and hairy taro. It is a perennial tuber plant, with varieties such as red taro, white taro, and nine-head taro, and it is grown more extensively in the Pearl River basin of China. So, what cultivation methods are there for taro? Let's find out together!
1. Choosing and preparing the land
Taro is a warm-climate crop with poor cold and drought tolerance. 26 degrees is the suitable temperature for taro growth. If the temperature is below 12 degrees or above 26 degrees, it is unfavorable for taro growth, and its growth and development will be hindered. Although taro is a water-loving crop, it should not be waterlogged or too dry, otherwise the growth and development of taro will be affected. Taro is suitable for planting in relatively moist land with a good drainage system. Before sowing, the land should be plowed, and sufficient base fertilizer should be applied. Per mu, ash and mixed fertilizer is applied mixed with a ternary compound fertilizer.
2. Sowing and building sheds
Taro is generally suitable for sowing in spring. If the spring temperature is still relatively low, sowing can be postponed until around Qingming. If you decide to use film covering after sowing, you can start sowing around Lichun. The amount used per mu is about 200 jin. For the seeds, choose worthless small taro, without cracks and without pests or diseases. When sowing, make the field beds well. The row spacing between furrows is about 50 cm, and the spacing between each plant is about 25 cm. After emergence, build a shed. Every four or five shed poles should be tied tightly at the top with rope to prevent them from being blown down by strong winds.
3. Strengthening management
After emergence, apply farmyard manure about twice. In summer, depending on the growth trend of taro, apply compound fertilizer appropriately. This can promote the growth of taro root tubers and increase yield. Loosen the soil and weed appropriately, remove side vines and central leaves, ensure air permeability between taro plants, and improve quality and yield. What also needs attention are the pests and diseases that easily appear in daily planting, such as aphids and white grubs. In the middle and late stages, when the corms are expanding and the leaves are growing, ensure the water needed for growth. In case of heavy rain, drain water in time to prevent waterlogging damage, which can damage the rhizomes and lead to reduced yield.
4. Harvesting and storage
The harvest period for taro is generally in autumn and winter. After taro matures, it can be pulled out directly. Store the large, well-developed taro, and the poorly developed ones can be used as seeds for the next sowing. If you are not in a hurry to sell after harvesting, you can put the taro into a cellar for storage over winter. During storage, cover the taro layer by layer with soil, not exceeding one meter, and pay attention to ventilation and maintaining moisture. As long as it does not dry out, taro can be stored for a very long time without rotting.
The above is the taro cultivation method compiled for you by the Tuliu website editors. We hope it can help you!