Detailed Explanation of Mulberry Planting Techniques and Management Methods

For mulberry, generally select land with relatively gentle terrain, a soil tillage layer thickness of more than 25cm, a soil depth of more than 1m, a soil pH between 6.5 and 7.5, rich organic matter, and easy irrigation to establish the orchard; remove buds in late March, and pinch off the growing tips in late April or early May; during the spring germination period and the germination period after summer pruning, pay attention to timely water supplementation; generally mulberries mature in early May and should be harvested promptly in the early morning, taking care to handle them gently and not break the skin.

I. Orchard Establishment Standards

A mulberry orchard requires relatively gentle terrain, a soil tillage layer thickness of more than 25cm, a soil depth of more than 1m, irrigation and drainage capacity, and a location far from main highways and other pollution sources. Generally, select land with a soil pH between 6.5 and 7.5, rich organic matter, and easy irrigation to establish the orchard. The mulberry planting plots should be as concentrated and contiguous as possible for ease of management. Convenient transportation is required, which is beneficial for the sale and transport of fresh mulberry fruit.

II. Shaping and Pruning

Planted seedlings are generally already cut back and headed at a plant height of 25 centimeters. After germination, each plant can sprout 5-6 new shoots. When the new shoots grow to 15-20 centimeters, pinch off the growing tips to promote lateral branch development and enlarge the canopy (if one pinching produces too few branches, repeat pinching 2-3 times to ensure 10-15 fruiting mother branches are produced in the same year; this is the key to ensuring a bumper harvest the following year, so it must be taken seriously. However, Baiyu Wang has weak growth, so it is not suitable for pinching). In late May or early June of the second year, after the mulberries mature and are harvested, carry out summer pruning along with shaping, cutting back all fruiting mother branches to 2-3 buds to promote the sprouting of new shoots as fruiting mother branches for the next year. The time for cutting back should be early rather than late to ensure sufficient time for new shoots to grow and accumulate nutrients for flower bud differentiation. Cut back every year after mulberry harvest to gradually form a low-trunk tree shape. During winter pruning, cut off all overly weak small branches and rotten or insect-damaged branches sprouted in summer from the base, and appropriately cut back the retained fruiting mother branches, generally removing the top 15-20 centimeters of poorly developed and unfilled growth.

III. Bud Removal and Tip Pinching

For trees more than two years old that are in production, bud removal is generally done in late March, removing adventitious buds sprouting on the main trunk and weak small buds at the base of fruiting mother branches. When the top of a branch has about 6 new leaves, pinch off the growing tip; the pinching time is in late April or early May, which is favorable for the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive (fruit) growth, enhancing sunlight exposure, and improving fruit quality. (This task may or may not be done.)

IV. Water and Fertilizer Management

The main water-demand periods for mulberry are the spring germination period and the germination period after summer pruning. If drought occurs during these two periods, water should be supplemented in a timely manner if conditions permit. Every winter, open a 20-centimeter-deep trench in the middle of the planting row for fertilization. The fertilization amount and method are the same as the “Orchard Establishment Standards” (or apply more farmyard manure and reduce chemical fertilizer); after summer pruning, apply 50 kilograms of ammonium bicarbonate or 20 kilograms of urea per mu; spray a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution on the leaves once each at the initial flowering stage and young fruit stage (spray both the front and back of the leaves; for dicotyledonous plants, the absorption rate of the leaf underside is 5 times that of the upper side) to increase fruit sugar content, promote early ripening, and make mulberries large and brightly colored, ensuring stable and increased yield.

V. Timely Harvesting

Generally, mulberries mature in early May. When the mulberry has just turned from red to black (for white varieties, the fruit stalk turns from green to yellow-white) and is glistening and bright, it indicates that the mulberry is ripe. It should be harvested promptly in the early morning, taking care to handle it gently and not break the skin. First pack it in small plastic boxes, then place them in cartons; generally each carton weighs 10-15 kilograms, and it can then be transported to the market for sale.