The Difference Between Ruo Leaves and Zongzi Leaves and a Detailed Guide to Growing Them
During the Dragon Boat Festival everyone has the habit of making zongzi, and we all know that zongzi are made by wrapping glutinous rice in a kind of leaf, then adding various foods such as dates, pork and egg yolks. Zongzi leaves are generally sold in the market, and a friend asked, what is the difference between ruo leaves and zongzi leaves? How do you grow them?
1. What is the difference between ruo leaves and zongzi leaves?
Zongzi leaf is a general term; the leaves commonly used to wrap zongzi are all called zongzi leaves. In the south, ruo leaves (leaves of Indocalamus, a bamboo relative) are generally the main type, while in the north reed leaves are the main type. There are of course some rarer ones, such as corn leaves and lotus leaves, which can also be used as zongzi leaves for wrapping zongzi. So you cannot say there is a difference between the two; rather, it is a relationship of category and member.
The difference between zongzi leaves and asparagus leaves lies mainly in their appearance. First, the tip of a reed leaf is more pointed than that of a ruo leaf, and the base of a reed leaf is a semicircle that curves inward, whereas a ruo leaf has a leaf stalk. Relatively speaking, the edges of reed leaves are sharper, especially uncooked reed leaves, which can easily cut the skin. Ruo leaves, comparatively, are not as sharp. Whether reed leaves or ruo leaves, before wrapping zongzi they must be fully boiled in water so they are more hygienic and taste better.
2. Key points for growing ruo leaves
Indocalamus mainly grows in relatively shady places, and in our southern region it can be planted beside some vegetable gardens as well as on hillsides and other spots. Every spring, you just go to a place where Indocalamus grows, use a hoe to dig up some small Indocalamus plants, keep the roots and rhizomes, and then transplant them. It is best to transplant on rainy, overcast days, as the survival rate is higher this way.
Indocalamus is fairly adaptable, but slightly acidic sandy soil that is loose, fertile, well drained and has good permeability is relatively suitable for its growth. If it is to be grown in a pot, you can mix garden soil, perlite and ceramsite in a ratio of 2:2:1, and during this you can add some leaf mould to increase fertility; after potting, water once, watering thoroughly.
If it is planted beside vegetable gardens, on hillsides and similar places, it is relatively simple; you only need to transplant some small Indocalamus plants. Like other bamboos, Indocalamus every year sends up shoot buds from the bamboo rhizome at its base, which eventually grow into Indocalamus. Generally after one or two years, the Indocalamus gradually spreads, and before long it grows into a large patch. If it is a household potted plant, however, the sprouting and growth of the Indocalamus must be strictly controlled.
Indocalamus relatively prefers shady, damp environments, so when growing it in a pot do not place it in the sun to bake, and when planting it in rural areas likewise choose a relatively shady place for planting.
Nowadays there is relatively large market demand for Indocalamus, and every year around the Dragon Boat Festival many people come to rural areas to buy up ruo leaves, with purchase prices ranging from two to six yuan per jin. Therefore, for many rural areas, growing Indocalamus can also bring a certain profit. Growing Indocalamus is still relatively simple; as long as the environmental conditions are suitable, its growth rate is also very fast.
Moreover, in ordinary fertilisation you should follow the principle of “light fertiliser applied frequently, small amounts with more applications, complete nutrition”, and for watering you should carry out “when dry, dry it out thoroughly; if not dry, do not water; when watering, water thoroughly”.