Key Points and Practical Methods of Seed Cultivation Techniques Explained

Seed cultivation techniques differ among different crops. For example, asparagus seed cultivation techniques include variety selection, seedling raising, transplanting, field management, harvesting, and clearing the garden and pruning. Among these, clearing the garden and pruning is the most important; at this time the asparagus stalks have all withered and died, so the garden must be thoroughly cleared, the withered stalks pulled out promptly, fallen leaves and weeds removed, and all gathered for burning, so as to reduce the occurrence of diseases.

I. Peony Seed Cultivation Techniques

1. Land preparation and fertilization

Deeply plow the land 45 cm, apply about 2000 kg of decomposed organic fertilizer per mu and plow it into the soil, harrow fine and level, and make flat beds 1.2 m wide.

2. Propagation methods

Mainly propagated by buds, though seedlings can also be raised from seed (the method is the same as for tree peony). For bud propagation, at harvest time select plants with few but sturdy stems, large thick leaves, thick, long and uniform roots, and plump but few buds. After digging them out, cut off the roots for processing into medicine, then cut away the lower part of the rhizome (commonly called the lump head), divide the plant so that the underside of the buds retains 2 to 3 cm of rhizome (do not keep old roots), with 2 to 3 buds per division; once cut, they can be planted. The planting period runs from “White Dew” to “Cold Dew”, with the time around “Autumn Equinox” being suitable. With a row spacing of 40 to 50 cm and a plant spacing of 30 to 40 cm, dig holes 6 to 9 cm deep, place 1 plant per hole with the buds facing upward, cover with soil level with the ground, and press down lightly. Then heap soil 9 to 12 cm high on top to prevent wind, drought and frost, ensuring the seedlings survive the winter safely.

3. Field management

(1) Weeding and watering

In the year after planting no seedlings emerge, and in winter generally no management is needed. Around “Awakening of Insects” the following year, hoe the ground and loosen the soil to preserve moisture, so as to favor seedling emergence. On dry land, open furrows between the rows and water; once seedlings emerge, hoe whenever there are weeds, and make it a rule to hoe after rain and after watering, and drain water promptly in the rainy season. Around “Frost's Descent”, when the aboveground stems and leaves wither, cut off the stems and leaves 6 to 9 cm above the ground and burn them, and heap soil 9 to 15 cm high around the base of the plants so they can overwinter safely.

(2) Topdressing

In the year after planting, with sufficient base fertilizer, topdressing is generally not needed. In the second year after planting, topdress 2 to 3 times: before greening up in spring, apply 2000 kg of decomposed barnyard manure per mu. During the vigorous growth period from May to July, apply 10 to 15 kg of urea per mu, and water after application. In the third year after planting, around March 20, apply 50 to 80 kg of cake fertilizer, 20 kg of urea and 25 kg of superphosphate per mu, open furrows and apply, and water promptly after application; the fertilizer must not touch the roots.

4. Pests and diseases

(1) Peony root rot is transmitted by bacteria carried on seedlings or contained in the soil, and waterlogging after rain easily triggers the disease. Pay attention to choosing well-drained land, choosing disease-free seedlings, disinfecting peony heads when storing them, choosing a ventilated and dry place for storage, practicing crop rotation, strengthening field management, not injuring roots when hoeing, and draining water promptly after rain.

(2) Peony leaf mold mostly occurs from June to July and harms all parts including stems, flowers and leaves; brown nearly round spots appear on the leaves with irregular concentric rings, the leaves gradually dry and shrink, and in severe cases wither and fall. At the early stage of the disease, spray with 1:1:200 to 250 Bordeaux mixture, once every 10 to 14 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive sprays.

(3) Root-knot nematode disease: nematodes penetrate the root tips of plants and suck the sap, forming root galls; the main root becomes deformed, the aboveground leaves wither, plant growth is affected, and in severe cases plants can die in large numbers. Do not choose plots whose previous crop was a peanut-family crop for planting, do not grow continuously, and rotate with grass-family plants. During the disease period, use 15% abamectin?carbosulfan microemulsion at 75 to 120 ml per mu diluted with water for drenching or spraying.

(4) The main insect pests are white grubs and copper-green chafer beetles. Per mu, use 3 to 4 kg of 3% phoxim granules together with 2 kg each of 50% carbendazim wettable powder and 50% thiram wettable powder mixed with 10 kg of fine sandy soil to make medicated soil, and broadcast it along the planting furrows at sowing or planting time, then sow or plant. This controls various underground pests and also controls root rot and nematode disease.