Detailed Explanation of Key Points for High-Yield Cultivation Techniques of Bayberry

When bayberry is mentioned, everyone is surely familiar with it. It not only has high nutritional value but also tastes sweet and sour, very delicious, and is very popular in the market. Currently, it is cultivated in most areas, so what are the high-yield cultivation techniques for bayberry?

1. Cultivation time

The best time to cultivate is in spring from February to March, that is, after the freezing period and before bayberry begins to sprout. It is best to choose an overcast or light rainy day for planting.

2. Growing temperature

Bayberry is shade-tolerant and moisture-loving. Generally, with an annual average temperature of 15-21°C and a minimum temperature above -8°C, bayberry is most suitable for cultivation below 500 m above sea level, on hillside land that has indicator plants such as ferns and rhododendrons, is not waterlogged and is relatively shady and moist.

3. Seedling selection

Choose first-grade seedlings that are thick and strong, have several branches and no damaged roots. Before planting, cut off 1/3 of the leaves above the graft union of the seedling to reduce water evaporation, so as to help survival and growth after survival.

4. Cultivation

Before planting, dig the planting holes first. Digging holes should be done in winter, and fish-scale pits should be dug along contour lines, 1 m square in size and 0.8 m deep; topsoil and subsoil should be kept separate so that they can be used in layers when filling the soil. Apply sufficient base fertilizer, with each hole receiving 25 kg of barnyard manure (or 3 kg of rapeseed cake) and 10-15 kg of burnt mud ash, plus 0.5 kg of superphosphate, mixed evenly with the soil at planting time; avoid contact between the roots and the fertilizer during planting. Weeds and trees around the fish-scale pits should not be removed immediately; after the seedlings survive, then cut down the tall trees.

5. Planting

To improve the survival rate of bayberry seedlings, planting should be deep rather than shallow, especially in places where autumn drought is relatively severe. The old scion on the rootstock should be buried entirely below the soil, and at least 3-5 leaves of the newly grown branches and leaves on the scion should also be buried in the soil, so that the scion part can develop roots. If planted too shallowly, the old scion is exposed above the soil surface, and the survival rate is low. This is the key to planting bayberry. Therefore, before planting bayberry seedlings, all leaves should be cut off, leaving the petioles, and the nylon film on the scion should be removed. If there are roots damaged during digging, the wounds should be trimmed smooth with pruning shears. At the same time, attention should be paid to trunk training, and the height of the central leader above the graft union should be about 25 cm.

When planting bayberry, first cover the fertilizer with a 15-20 cm thick layer of topsoil; this is the soil that directly contacts the roots. Place the seedling, straighten the root system, fill in topsoil in stages, firm the soil around it, and cover the top with subsoil to 20-30 cm above the ground, then water 1-2 times, and finally cover with a layer of loose soil.

6. Watering

In the first year after planting, the bayberry root system is not well developed, and during the high-temperature and drought period from July to August, it is easily killed by drought, so drought prevention and resistance measures should be taken. Where there is a water source, irrigation or watering can be done; alternatively, after the plum rain period ends (July), when the ground is moist, cover the fish-scale pit area with 5-10 cm thick grass to prevent and resist drought.

Overall, bayberry is very easy to cultivate, but if high yield is desired, it is enough to select good seedlings, control the temperature well, plant the seedlings properly, and do a good job in water and fertilizer management and other management work.