A Detailed Guide to Apricot Planting Methods and Key Techniques
As an economic fruit tree whose fruit is edible, whose branches can be used as fuel, and whose wood can be made into furniture, the apricot is also widely planted in various regions. So how is it planted? Let's find out below.
How are apricots planted?
1. Propagation and seedling raising
The planting method for apricot trees mainly uses grafting, though they can also be propagated by sowing before the soil freezes in autumn and winter. In the north, the main method is transplanting. After the cultivated seedlings grow to a certain size, cut strong branches for transplanting, preferably at around 80 cm, as this will give a very high survival rate.
2. Field planting
Choose sandy loam soil with deep soil layers and good drainage, and determine a reasonable row and plant spacing for field planting according to local conditions. Before planting, apply decomposed organic fertilizer in the holes. When planting, let the root system spread out fully, then add soil and firm it down. After planting, irrigate thoroughly to settle the planting hole.
3. Fertilizer and water
When new shoots grow to about 15 cm, begin applying quick-acting fertilizer, alternating between soil topdressing and foliar spraying. From the end of September to early October, apply organic fertilizer and compound fertilizer. After covering with a greenhouse frame, apply urea before bud break, and after flower drop through the fruit enlargement stage, topdress with potassium sulfate compound fertilizer. Spray urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate every 10-15 days; in addition, a 500-fold yield-increasing bacterial preparation can be sprayed at the same time. After the seedlings are planted, water once thoroughly, and thereafter determine the amount and timing of watering according to specific conditions.
4. Pruning
If you want to increase the yield of apricot trees, you must prune them well. In fact, pruning apricot trees is not very difficult; during growth, simply cut off diseased and dead branches in time, otherwise they will absorb the tree's nutrients and cause damage to the trunk.
In addition, from fruit enlargement to before fruit ripening, pinch the new shoots multiple times to control excessive growth of new shoots and improve the fruit-setting rate and single-fruit weight. For upright new shoots on the back, they can be removed or twisted to prevent “trees growing on trees” from worsening the light conditions inside the canopy. After the fruit is harvested and the film is removed in early to mid-May, combine heading back with thinning branches to adjust the tree's growth balance and prevent compensatory excessive growth. For young trees and trees just beginning to bear fruit, winter pruning should take into account both shaping and fruiting. For the main and lateral branches and extension branches, prune lightly and leave them long, generally retaining two-thirds of the full branch length for heading back. For moderately vigorous, widely angled growth branches, leave them unpruned so they sprout medium and short branches, increasing the number of fruiting branches; after flower formation or fruiting, head them back in time to train them into fruiting branch groups.
After apricots ripen, they should be picked promptly; otherwise, a large amount of fruit will drop, causing a reduction in yield.