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A Detailed Guide to Porcupine Raising Methods and Key Technical Points

General News By Sophie Bennett 0 views
Animals of the family Hystricidae are known for their spines, which serve as protection against enemies and can reach up to 35 cm long. When facing an enemy, the spines stand erect and quiver, producing a rustling sound; in an emergency, the porcupine can back up and then forcefully lunge at the enemy, driving its spines into the enemy's body. Let's take a look below at porcupine raising

Animals of the family Hystricidae are known for their spines, which serve as protection against enemies and can reach up to 35 cm long. When facing an enemy, the spines stand erect and quiver, producing a “rustling” sound; in an emergency, the porcupine can back up and then forcefully lunge at the enemy, driving its spines into the enemy's body. Let's take a look below at porcupine raising methods

1 Site construction requirements.

(1) Semi-free-range raising. Choose a hilly slope facing north and south, with good drainage conditions, relatively thick soil, and woodland, to build the site. The surrounding wall is 1.1-1.2 m high (first dig a trench 50 cm deep and 20 cm wide at the base of the wall, pour in concrete, then build the wall above the trench, to prevent porcupines from digging holes from the bottom of the wall and escaping), and install an iron gate for the entry and exit of keepers. The site area can be determined according to the designed stocking population, and the male-to-female ratio is preferably 1:3-4. Porcupines raised inside the wall will dig their own burrows to rest in; as long as sufficient feed is provided for them to eat freely, that is enough.

(2) Artificial captive raising. Build a breeding pen with a roof, divided into inner and outer nest chambers, with a sturdy concrete floor (litter is placed on the floor). The inner and outer nest chambers are generally 2 m wide, 3 m long, and 1.1-1.2 m high. The inner nest chamber is the place for resting and giving birth, and the outer nest chamber is the area for activity and sunbathing; a drinking water pool is built on the side of the outer nest chamber near the iron gate. Feed placement: place it in the inner nest chamber on rainy days, and in the outer nest chamber on sunny days.

2 Feeding and breeding. Porcupines have strong stomach digestive capacity. Under wild conditions, they like to eat corn, wheat, rice, red taro, Chinese cabbage, radish, pumpkin, peanuts, and many other crops. Under artificial raising conditions, in addition to the above feed, pine roots, wintergreen branches, and the like can also be provided. The total daily ration should be based on being basically finished each night with a slight remainder, and any small amount of unfinished feed should be completely removed from the site the next day. Porcupines mate at night, the gestation period is about 110 days, and the lactation period is about 50 days. Usually there is one litter per year, with two young per litter.

3 Disease prevention. Although porcupines have strong vitality and are not prone to disease, attention should still be paid to the following: in late spring and early summer, green feed should not exceed 30% of the total daily ration, to prevent gastric bloating and nitrite poisoning. Fresh water should be changed once a day, and 0.5% ciprofloxacin powder should be added to the drinking water at intervals. Regular intestinal deworming, replacement of litter, and site disinfection should also be carried out.

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