Orchid cultivation experience sharing: master these key points to grow orchids well
Orchids have been one of the prominently famous ornamental flowers in our country since ancient times. Their soft and elegant leaves, quietly refined and pure white flowers, and distant and exquisite fragrance make them a treasure among flowers.
There are about 500 genera and more than 10,000 species of Orchidaceae plants in our country. The orchids usually appreciated are the terrestrial orchid varieties in the genus Cymbidium. According to their flowering period, they can be roughly divided into spring orchids, summer orchids, autumn orchids, cold orchids and ink orchids. There are many variants of orchids, including plain-heart, lotus-petal, plum-petal, narcissus-petal and butterfly-petal types.
How should orchids be appreciated?
Whether upright, curved or drooping, they should all be emerald green and supple, open and elegant. The ornamental value of orchid leaves has always been no lower than that of the flowers. The ancients had the saying “cherishing the leaves is like cherishing a jade bracelet.” If the leaf surface is wrinkled or adorned with yellow and white spots, the leaf tip is rounded and blunt, the leaf width is broad, and the basal leaves are short, all have great ornamental value. The fragrance types of orchids include clear fragrance, cold fragrance, light fragrance, strong fragrance and so on. Those that are strong and muddy are of poorer quality, while those that are distant and clear are top grade.
Orchids generally consist of six petals (one lip, two petals, three sepals). Precious orchid varieties may have as many as seven or eight petals. If the sepals on both sides spread out in a straight line, it is called “single-character shoulder,” and the quality is top grade; if they spread upward and backward, it is called “flying shoulder,” and the quality is still acceptable; if they droop downward, it is called “drooping shoulder,” which is inferior grade. The two parallel petals and the lip below often also determine the grade of the orchid by their shape.
Among all orchid flower colors, greenish ones are top grade. Those with markings, spots and color halos on the lip are called “meat petals.” Those that are green, white or light yellow without spots are called “plain petals.” Plain petals are more precious than meat petals. If a plain heart appears among petal-form flowers, it is even more rare. If there are color halos, spots or stripes in the flower, as long as the color is pure, it is equally appealing. If stable inherited traits appear in parts such as leaves and flowers, becoming excellent varieties with high ornamental value, such as multi-lip flowers, multi-petal flowers, shape changes and color changes, they become treasures among orchids.
In addition, a good orchid should be paired with a good pot. A simple, elegant and appropriate orchid pot will make the displayed orchid appear more beautiful, clear and refined, and extraordinary in quality.
Many people think that growing orchids is quite mysterious and not easy to grow well. In fact, as long as you master their growth habits, they can be grown well.
Orchids by nature like cleanliness. They cannot tolerate dust and grime, and grow especially vigorously in warm, humid, semi-shaded places facing south with relatively more sunlight.
Orchids are propagated by sowing and division.
Orchid seeds can be sown as soon as they are collected. Orchids have a characteristic: the orchid roots must live symbiotically with orchid fungi in order to survive. Therefore, when sowing, the seeds are often sown on the surface of the mother plant's pot, using the mother plant's orchid fungi to germinate and grow. The seeds germinate after about half a year, and after growing in the mother pot for two months, they can be transferred to small pots for cultivation.
Division is the method commonly used at present. Because orchid species differ and their characteristics vary, when is the best time to divide them is a matter on which famous orchid growers each have their own views. Generally speaking, the more suitable times are spring, before new buds emerge, and autumn, when orchids gradually stop growing. At these times it is not easy to bruise or break the new buds, the temperature is milder, and it is convenient for operation and for restoring and building up the plant body. Summer temperatures are high, which is the peak growing season for orchids, while winter is cold and the plant body has weaker resistance, so division is mostly unfavorable. It can also be done after the flowers have finished blooming. Generally, those that bloom in summer and autumn should be divided in early spring; those that bloom in early spring should be divided in late autumn. This way it neither affects flowering nor fails to stimulate the tillering of leaf buds, giving emerald leaves and brilliant flowers.
When dividing, take the mother plant out of the pot, shake off the soil, and cut it into several clumps with a knife. Each clump should carry 3-4 pseudobulbs and new buds, and withered leaves and rotten, shriveled roots should be trimmed away. If you use wild orchids bought from the market, because the root system has mostly lost water and become shriveled, you can first soak them in clean water, and after they have absorbed enough water, wash and clean the root fibers, then dry them in the shade until the roots turn white before planting.
For planting orchids, you can use black mountain soil, peat soil, garden soil, pine needle soil, moss, fern roots, bark chunks and so on. Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a tile, then spread a layer of broken bricks, tiles and stone granules with a thickness of one quarter of the pot depth to enhance air permeability and drainage, and then spread a layer of cultivation soil. Place the orchid upright and plant it, fill in cultivation soil, and cover the pseudobulbs. The soil should be pressed firm, and no soil should be filled within 2 cm of the pot rim to make watering easier. After planting, water thoroughly and place in a cool, shaded place. After half a month, move it to a sunny and ventilated environment for cultivation. To increase beauty and moisture retention, a layer of small white gravel can be spread on the pot surface.
There are four prohibitions in growing orchids: namely “do not take them out in spring, do not expose them to the sun in summer, do not let them dry out in autumn, and do not keep them wet in winter.” In spring, temperatures are still unstable, and taking them out of the room too early makes them vulnerable to wind and cold. It is relatively safe to take them out in early April. In summer, they should be placed under a shade shed, avoiding direct sunlight, and cultivated with scattered light. Autumn is the period when orchids sprout and send up flower stems, so corresponding humidity should be maintained and dryness avoided. Orchid roots are fleshy, and during winter dormancy the water requirement is not high, so the potting soil only needs to be slightly moist; do not water too much, so as to avoid diseases of the roots and leaves.
Fertilizer should be dilute, not concentrated: during the growing period, apply once every half month with rotted bean cake water or horse-hoof sauce residue water. If an appropriate amount of monopotassium phosphate is added, the effect is even better. Do not fertilize in midsummer. When the temperature is too high (above 32 degrees C), in addition to daily watering, spray water several more times. Slightly acidic water is suitable. Frequently spray and wash the leaf surface with clean water; this not only improves the growing environment of the potted orchid, but also keeps the leaves clean and reduces the chance of infection by pests and diseases.
Orchids are prone to scale insects, which can be controlled by spraying with a 1000-fold dilution of dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate. When whiteflies cause damage, spray to kill them with a 2000-fold dilution of deltamethrin. Orchid roots have a sweet taste and easily attract ants, which can be lured and eliminated with meat bones. Orchids are prone to anthracnose fungi and black spot fungi. After disease occurs, promptly remove and burn diseased leaves, widen the distance between potted plants, and improve ventilation and light conditions. Reduce water spraying, control humidity, and use carbendazim for prevention and control.