A Detailed Guide to Orchid Cultivation and Daily Management Methods

1. Orchid growing location: Orchids can be grown indoors, on balconies, in courtyards, in greenhouses, or in large-scale orchid nurseries.

2. Choosing orchid pots: Clay pots are the first choice for growing orchids, as they drain water well, have strong air permeability, are not prone to waterlogging, are easy to manage, and are not prone to root rot.

3. Soil selection: Orchids like loose, humus-rich soil; soil from under trees in mountain forests, pond mud, or peat soil is best. Crushed brick, weathered granular material, and specially made granular soil can also be used.

4. Repotting and dividing orchids: Generally, spring and autumn are the most suitable seasons for repotting and dividing. If repotting or dividing is done during high summer temperatures, the orchid roots are very prone to infection, and the leaves turn yellow, causing loss of the plants. In winter, orchids are dormant; if repotting or dividing is done when the temperature is too low, the orchids are unlikely to grow new roots, and the young shoots due to sprout the following year will also be infected. Before potting, check whether the orchids have rotten roots or rotten leaves, and prune them off if so. Before pruning, disinfect the scissors with alcohol; after pruning and disinfecting, dilute the pesticide in a basin or bucket, place the orchid roots in it to soak for about 10 minutes, take them out, let them dry, and then pot them.

5. Light and ventilation: Like other plants, orchids cannot grow without light, but they should not be exposed to strong light. In summer and autumn, when the light is strong, shade netting can be used for cover; if the temperature is too high, two layers of shade netting can be used. Ventilation and air permeability are the key to success or failure in growing orchids; the orchid racks and orchid cages must be open to the air above, below, front, and back. When growing orchids indoors, conditions for air convection should be provided on windless days. In summer, a fan can be used to exhaust air; in winter, doors and windows should be opened regularly for ventilation, but the temperature should be kept no lower than 0°C so as not to freeze and damage the flower buds and young shoots.

6. Watering management: The ancients said “dry orchids, wet chrysanthemums,” which emphasizes that orchids should be kept on the drier side. Orchids cannot be watered on a fixed schedule; instead, water when the soil is dry. Orchids have fleshy roots, so too much water easily causes root rot, while being too dry causes the orchid roots to wrinkle, dehydrate, and die. The water supply orchids need is obtained in two ways: first, through root absorption, transported throughout the plant via the vascular system; second, through moisture in the air, inhaled into the plant through leaf stomata, so that the water needed for metabolism can be supplied. In summer and autumn, when temperatures are high and the air is dry, especially when growing orchids on a balcony, some water should be sprayed on the ground to let it evaporate, creating artificial humidity in the space, and the leaves also need to be frequently sprayed with a mist.

7. Prevention and control of pests and diseases: The prevention and control of orchid pests and diseases should mainly focus on prevention.

(1) The main orchid pests are scale insects, red spider mites, and mites. These pests mainly occur under conditions of high temperature and high humidity without ventilation and air permeability. To control scale insects, trichlorfon and similar products can be used, sprayed as a 1% diluted solution; during a pest outbreak, apply once every 5 days for three consecutive sprays, and for prevention, once a month. To control red spider mites and mites, mainly use dicofol, acaricides, deltamethrin, and similar products, with the dilution ratio according to the pesticide's instructions.

(2) The main fungal diseases of orchids are black spot disease, brown spot disease, anthracnose, and leaf yellowing disease. Mainly use fungicides such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, and anthracnose powder, with the dilution ratio according to the instructions.

(3) Viral diseases include stem rot and root rot. The main control drugs are potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, and famoxadone. There is also a devastating viral disease called Buras disease, whose symptoms are irregular yellow-white blotches on the leaf surface, semi-transparent in appearance. The main drugs for controlling this disease are penicillin, isatis root, and similar products. If a plant is found to be infected with this disease, it should be isolated or burned as soon as possible.

8. Fertilization management: For root fertilization of orchids, in general, apply as little as possible. For organic fertilizers, a small amount of soybean cake, foul fishy water, yogurt, etc. can be used; for inorganic fertilizers, a small amount of compound fertilizer, monopotassium phosphate, etc. can be used, generally 3 to 4 times a month. For foliar fertilization of orchids, mainly use Gaole (high-potassium type), Gaochanling, Yemianbao, Aiduoshou, monopotassium phosphate, etc., generally 2 times a month, with the dilution ratio according to the product instructions

9. Techniques for promoting flowering and propagation of orchids: The criteria for growing orchids well are: first, the orchid leaves grow dark, sturdy, green, and glossy; second, the number of new shoots increases; third, they can bloom, and the flowers bloom well.

(1) To make orchid leaves grow dark, sturdy, green, and glossy, the key lies in proper dry and wet moisture levels, frequent spraying of foliar fertilizer, and prevention and control of pests and diseases.

(2) To make orchids produce more new shoots, the key lies in frequent repotting and dividing. For example, under normal conditions a pot of 5 to 6 orchid plants produces 2 to 3 new shoots each year; if it is divided into three pots, and the orchid pseudobulbs in all three pots are twisted 180 degrees so that they remain connected as if cut but still joined, 6 to 9 new shoots can be produced. Without dividing the pot, evenly twisting each pseudobulb of the whole pot of orchids about 180 degrees will also increase the sprouting rate.

(3) Being able to bloom and enjoy the flowers is the greatest spiritual enjoyment for orchid growers. To make orchids bloom promptly and on schedule, give them sufficient sunlight, suitable temperature, and humidity during their growth process. The water should be on the acidic side; especially in the Shandong region, where water is neutral to alkaline, ferrous sulfate, oxalic acid, and similar substances can be used to improve it. The fertilizer should be potassium-leaning, and more plant regulators should be used. When potting, try to let the pseudobulbs emerge above the soil surface, and control moisture, keeping it mainly on the dry side.