Detailed Explanation of Key Points for High-Yield Pomegranate Cultivation Techniques
1 Site selection: Choose a location with flat terrain, convenient transportation, irrigation access, and shelter from wind facing the sun. When establishing the orchard, avoid areas and orientations where the minimum winter temperature drops below 16°C, especially trough-shaped valleys and basins where cold air tends to accumulate.
2 Planting density: Pomegranate trees generally grow 2-4 m tall. A reasonable density can be determined according to different site conditions. On fertile soil with good management, planting density can be lower, at 22-25 trees per mu, with a spacing of 5x5-6 m; where site conditions are poor and management is average, density can be higher, with a spacing of 3x4 m; for planting on mountain terraces, a spacing of 2.5x4 m can be used, planting one row along the outer edge of the terrace and intercropping short-statured crops on the inner side of the terrace to improve land utilization.
3 Land preparation and fertilization: Use either large-hole land preparation or trench-and-trough preparation. Large-hole land preparation requires holes 80 cm square and 80 cm deep; the length of the trench-and-trough method is unlimited, but the width and depth must reach more than 80 cm. Apply no less than 50 kg of farmyard manure and 0.5 kg of compound fertilizer per planting hole, then mix thoroughly with the hole soil, and water thoroughly before planting.
4 Select improved varieties and strong seedlings: Improved varieties and strong seedlings are the key to survival and the foundation for fast growth, high yield, and good quality. Currently suitable for cultivation and performing well are: Huaiyuan's Dabengzi and Yushizi, Shandong's Daqingpi and Dahongpao, and Shaanxi Lintong's Tianhongdan. Seedling quality requirements: seedling height above 70 cm, ground diameter above 0.8 cm, seedling age preferably 1-3 years, and purity above 95%. When lifting seedlings, pay attention to keeping the root system intact, preserving at least 4 roots, with root length no less than 15 cm, and seedlings free of pests and diseases.
5 Transplant at the right time: Early March in spring and late October to early November in autumn are the best periods. Temperatures during these two seasons are relatively low, evaporation is low, and the survival rate is high; especially in late autumn, when roots and soil bind together over one winter, the following spring sprouting is early, the photosynthesis period is long, the plant grows vigorously in the same year, and it can flower and fruit earlier. With spring planting, the soil and root system do not bind tightly, and sprouting often occurs before rooting; if spring drought occurs, the plant is prone to drying out after planting, often showing poor growth in the planting year or even death. Summer planting of pomegranates is also possible, but it should be done on consecutive cloudy days; the planting cost is relatively high and it is generally not recommended.
6 Training and pruning
Training: After planting, let the pomegranate tree grow naturally in the first year, and select and retain 1-4 vigorous branches with suitable orientation to train as the trunk, removing root suckers promptly thereafter. As the trunk grows and primary and secondary branches form, gradually train the tree into a round-headed, bushy, open-center, or trunk with scaffold branches in layers form.
Pruning: Pomegranate is sensitive to pruning response. In winter, thinning is the main method, supplemented by heading back and renewal pruning. For young trees 2-3 years after planting, focus on propping and spreading to open the main branch angles, appropriately thin branches or head back, train the tree shape, and accumulate nutrients to create conditions for high yield. For fruiting trees over 4 years old, thin branches to improve light penetration and create a tree structure with good ventilation and light transmission. When thinning branches, focus on removing water sprouts, overly dense branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches, weak drooping branches, crossing branches, overlapping branches, and sprouting branches at the base of the trunk. On the basis of winter pruning, carry out summer operations such as bud removal, pinching, and girdling to maintain a light transmission rate of 10%-20%, but never cut large branches during summer pruning.
Summer pruning should be carried out after fruit set, mainly thinning overly dense small branches to maintain a reasonable light transmission rate. The main purpose of pinching is to inhibit growth, promote branching, train fruiting branch groups, and increase the fruit set rate. Excess buds and side branches should be promptly removed or pinched to reduce waste of water and nutrients and promote main branch growth. For vigorous trees over 3 years old that do not bear fruit and for larger auxiliary branches, girdling can be done at an appropriate location during the flowering period. The girdling width should be about 1/10 of the diameter of the trunk or main branch; girdling helps accumulate nutrients above the wound, increases the proportion of bell-shaped flowers, and improves the fruit set rate and fruit quality.