How to Propagate Pepino Melon? A Detailed Guide to Common Propagation Methods

There are 2 propagation methods for pepino melon

One is seed propagation, that is, sexual propagation;

The second is cuttings propagation, that is, asexual propagation. We generally use only the cuttings propagation method. Propagating seedlings by cuttings is a simple method commonly used for pepino melon. That is, after taking pepino melon stems and branches and cutting them into cuttings (cutting wood), insert them into the soil and let them take root and sprout under suitable environmental conditions, growing independently into robust plants. Among these, the seedbed cuttings method is the simplest, and now we basically use nutrient trays for cuttings propagation.

1. Selection of stems and branches for cuttings: choose fresh, tender stems and branches from high-yielding plants with good genetic traits, free of disease and damage, to facilitate the growth of new roots and new shoots. The length of the cuttings should preferably be 10-14 cm. After cutting, insert the cuttings into the soil promptly; otherwise, place them in a dark place or cover them with a wet cloth to prevent dehydration.

2. Selection of cutting time: although pepino melon can be propagated by cuttings all year round, the survival rate is higher with spring cuttings and autumn cuttings. For cuttings during the day, it is advisable to do so after 4 p.m. to increase the survival rate. The suitable temperature for cuttings can be within the range of 15-30°C.

3. Cutting method: before cutting, to improve the survival rate, the cuttings can be soaked in growth hormone. When cutting, first make the seedbed well or prepare the seedling tray. When making the seedbed, choose loose and fertile soil, make a bed 1-1.2 m wide, apply 3-5 kg of decomposed farmyard manure per square meter, then sprinkle pesticide capable of killing underground pests, then make the bed, level and finely rake the bed surface, then insert the cuttings straight into the soil, then cover with soil and press firmly, so that the cuttings are exposed above the ground by about 4-6 cm, with a row spacing of about 10-15 cm and a plant spacing of about 6 cm. After cutting, water promptly; the amount of watering can be determined as appropriate.

4. Management after cutting: when cutting from late spring to summer and autumn, to prevent exposure to the scorching sun, shade should be provided, and fine water should be sprayed. After the seedlings grow new roots, the shading tools can be removed. If cutting in winter or when the temperature is relatively low, to prevent freezing damage, it is advisable to do so in a solar greenhouse or plastic tunnel, and use a small arched shed covered with plastic film and straw curtains. Generally, roots form one week after cutting. After the seedlings take root, decomposed organic fertilizer or biogas slurry can be applied as a topdressing to promote the growth of new roots and new shoots. Under suitable external environmental conditions, about 40-45 days after cutting, field planting or seedling separation and transplanting can be carried out.