How to Fertilize Kyoho Grapes? Detailed Explanation of Key Fertilization Techniques

Kyoho grapes are loved by many people because their taste is very sweet and their appearance is red and purple, making them look delicious at first glance. When they are in season, sales are usually very good. So how are such delicious grapes grown? Let me tell you below!

Fertilization Techniques for Kyoho Grapes

1. Base fertilizer. Every year in mid-September, dig trenches 0.7 m deep and 0.5 m wide, then apply 5000 kg/mu of decomposed farmyard manure into the trenches, add 20 kg of compound fertilizer, fill level and irrigate.

2. Topdressing: The first time, after the grapes are taken out and trained onto the trellis, apply 20 kg/mu of compound fertilizer containing 15% each of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to promote continued flower bud differentiation and sprouting and to promote new shoot growth. The second time, 1 week before flowering, apply 25 kg/mu of compound fertilizer to promote rapid berry expansion and make the berries uniform in size. The third time, at the beginning of fruit coloring, mainly apply phosphorus and potassium, with a small amount of quick-dissolving nitrogen fertilizer; the above three applications are each 20 kg/mu of urea. The fourth time, when the fruit begins to soften and color, apply 1 kg/mu of compound fertilizer and 1 kg/mu of potassium sulfate to promote the second growth stage of the fruit and full coloring, increase sugar content, and aid storage. The fifth time can also be carried out before harvest in combination with autumn fertilization, which helps increase tree nutrition and improve the tree's overwintering ability.

3. Foliar fertilizer. 5 times per year, starting in mid-June, once every half month. Spray urea for the first two times, and spray monopotassium phosphate at 350 times dilution for the last 3 times.

Winter Pruning Techniques for Kyoho Grapes

1. Protect the bud at the pruning cut: cut 3-4 cm above the bud at the pruning cut. If the internode is short, cut at the node before the bud at the pruning cut. The cut should be smooth to prevent splitting, so as not to affect bud sprouting.

2. Leave short spurs when thinning large branches: small branches can be removed from the base, but when thinning large branches, short stubs should be left, and the stubs should be cut shorter again the following year. At the same time, avoid continuous wounds, so as not to affect the smooth flow of conductive tissues.

3. Avoid opposite wounds: when thinning branches on the main cane, try to avoid causing opposite wounds.

4. Reasonably determine the length of pruning and retention: the retained length must be fully mature, and in areas with space, the canes should be left appropriately long to fill the trellis surface as quickly as possible. Varieties with vigorous growth and low bud fruitfulness at the base are suitable for medium-long cane pruning, while varieties with moderate or weak growth and high bud fruitfulness at the base are suitable for medium and short cane pruning.

5. Renewal of branch groups: if single-branch renewal is used, winter pruning is short-cane pruning of the fruiting mother cane, leaving no renewal cane. In the second year, among the new shoots growing from the fruiting mother cane, the upper ones bear fruit, and the lower ones have their flower clusters removed to serve as renewal canes. During winter pruning, remove the canes that have already fruited and perform short-cane pruning on the renewal canes. If branch renewal is used, leave one fruiting mother cane and one renewal cane at each fruiting position; the upper one is still pruned as a medium or long cane, and the lower cane is cut back to 2-3 buds.

6. Pay attention to the renewal of perennial canes: for perennial canes whose tips are weak but whose rear portion still has good fruiting positions, cut back to vigorous canes; for perennial canes whose tips still have good canes but whose rear portion is bare, carry out cane layering renewal to cultivate new plants for fruiting; for perennial canes with weak growth, if they still have fruiting capacity, and there are no basal shoots to replace them, combine short pruning of the mother canes on the old canes with vertical tying of the canes to help weak canes become stronger and balance tree vigor; for old perennial canes, if they have no fruiting capacity, they should be completely removed.

Management of Kyoho Grapes During the Budburst Stage

The budburst stage lasts no more than 10 days from the time the grapes are taken out of the soil and trained onto the trellis until the buds sprout. Its indicators are that in mid-to-late April the soil temperature at 20 cm depth reaches 9°C, the minimum air temperature is above 10°C, and the sprouting rate is above 80%, which means the budburst stage has begun. Management techniques: take the vines out of the soil and train them onto the trellis at the right time; do not train them onto the trellis too early, because if the roots have not yet begun activity, the canes and buds are prone to drying out; if too late, the buds will sprout in the soil, and bud eyes are easily knocked off when training onto the trellis. Take them out of the soil around April 10-15. After taking them out and training them onto the trellis, irrigate promptly. When training onto the trellis, the canes should be straightened and the trellis surface kept even. Irrigate thoroughly in one application, bringing soil water-holding capacity to 70%.

Management of Kyoho Grapes During the Young Fruit Stage

1. From after flower drop until young fruit stops growing. This takes about 30 days. The fertilized embryo undergoes massive cell division, the number of cells increases rapidly, and the young fruit grows rapidly. This stage requires large amounts of nitrogen fertilizer and large amounts of water.

2. Requirements for tree appearance: new shoot tips grow rapidly. Leaf color changes from light red to dark green. Leaf size remains about the size of a human palm.

3. Cultivation techniques: irrigate frequently with small amounts of water. Irrigate with a small amount of water once every 5-6 days, with the standard being that the ground is soaked to about 1 cun. Apply nitrogen fertilizer as topdressing. Foliar topdressing can be used, spraying 0.1%-0.3% urea as foliar fertilizer. Thin the berries. Ensure that at maturity the berries are above 10 g, the clusters are about 0.5 kg, and the clusters grow into a long cylindrical shape. Remove secondary shoots in mid-June. Leave 8 leaves per new shoot. The reasonable standard for the trellis surface is that at noon on a sunny day the light transmission rate of the trellis surface reaches 30%.

The grapes we usually eat actually require so many precautions in fertilization. So every excellent fruit is not easy to obtain! Growing grapes is a good choice. They can not only be made into delicious raisins, but also brewed into wine, which I believe will bring everyone good returns.